[gizzygone]

A few questions about drywall for my basement finishing project:

1) Is it cheaper installing drywall myself and hiring out the taping plaster? Or is it true that drywall contractors get drywall much cheaper than I could at the Home Depot?

2) Is mold resistant drywall a good idea for below-grade installations? Even for the ceiling?

3) All the audio guys seem to think that 5/8 drywall is needed for sound deadening. I'd like to keep as much noise down in the "man cave" as possible.

Do I need 5/8 for walls and ceiling? Or just 5/8 for ceiling?

 

[joecaption]

There not going to get it much cheaper just be able to install it far faster and have it come out right.
If you have added 2 foam on the foundation, framed the walls out away from the foam,
Used R-13 insulation and added a vapor barrier over the studs then there's no need to any special drywall.
5/8 on the walls is not going to do a thing to stop sound.
Truly want sound want sound proofing just using thicker sheet rock not going to do much.
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing-solutions/soundproof-a-ceiling/

 

[gizzygone]

There not going to get it much cheaper just be able to install it far faster and have it come out right.
If you have added 2 foam on the foundation, framed the walls out away from the foam,
Used R-13 insulation and added a vapor barrier over the studs then there's no need to any special drywall.
5/8 on the walls is not going to do a thing to stop sound.
Truly want sound want sound proofing just using thicker sheet rock not going to do much.
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing-solutions/soundproof-a-ceiling/

Were going with just spray foam directly to the concrete.

 

[ToolSeeker]

Most dry wallers prefer to hang their own. They can eliminate taping problems as they go. As for price there is not much difference in a few sheets, if doing a whole house and they purchase a couple hundred sheets then they get a break.

I have went to a couple jobs where the HO hung the rock and it was so bad we had to remove it and start over. And some where the HO did a really good job. Not knowing your skill level makes your question a little hard to answer.

 

[Aaron1085]

I did 2" foam board on my foundation walls and then rolled R-13 insulation between all studs that I did myself. I then hired a pro to do the walls and ceiling , tape, mud and supplies. The price was definitely right and it'll come out far better and in a much faster time frame than I could achieve.




Sent from my iPhone

 

[Aaron1085]

Not done yet, drywall, tape and mud went up yesterday. Sanding tomorrow.


Sent from my iPhone

 

[gizzygone]

Not done yet, drywall, tape and mud went up yesterday. Sanding tomorrow.


Sent from my iPhone

Would you mine me asking what kind of drywall you went with? How large is your basement, and how much was the project? I started getting a few quotes and they range from $4000 to $8000

 

[darren]

I have went to a couple jobs where the HO hung the rock and it was so bad we had to remove it and start over. And some where the HO did a really good job. Not knowing your skill level makes your question a little hard to answer.

What would a home owner do to make the drywall so bad you had to rip it out, I may learn a thing or two about how not to hang drywall.

 

[ToolSeeker]

The biggest problem was trying to save pieces. This created many butt joints. Leaving too big a gap, and the cut outs for plugs and switches were cut wrong then the hole was too big or in the wrong place. Seams in the wrong place like the corner of a door or window where it is very likely to crack.

 

[Gymschu]

Toolseeker, I've also seen drywall hung and NOT NAILED TO ANY STUDS AT THE END OF THE PIECE. If the 8 footer ended up a foot shy of the next stud, they just left it like that and installed the next piece right next to it!!! One lean on the wall...........

 

[gizzygone]

I'm starting to reconsider doing this myself: if the only problem is the idiot installers, then I think I can handle the job myself.

I think my biggest concern would be making sure I get the joints all correct.

 

[ToolSeeker]

Myron Ferguson has a really good book on drywalling if your unsure. There are some good videos on You Tube the problem being there is also some really bad ones.

 

[gizzygone]

Myron Ferguson has a really good book on drywalling if your unsure. There are some good videos on You Tube the problem being there is also some really bad ones.

I'll have to look the book up. Does it have lots of pictures? (Hey, don't judge!)

I've been watching you tube videos, but certainly having a hard time with picking out the pros, vs the wannabes. I'm really having a hard time figuring out the hanging of drywall over outlets: some say to hang the corners and use a rotozip (which looks a lot cleaner) and others use some crazy tricks, like lipsticking the box then cutting then hanging...

 

[spaceman spif]

I'd go with 5/8" for better soundproofing as well as a better fire rating. And don't install a vapor barrier behind it - that will trap moisture and lead to mold and mildew problems.

Also there's a great thread on here about fire block framing -
http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-fireblock-framing-37190/

It's basically a way to help suppress any fires that may ignite behind the drywall and hopefully prevent it from spreading upstairs.

 

[gizzygone]

I'd go with 5/8" for better soundproofing as well as a better fire rating. And don't install a vapor barrier behind it - that will trap moisture and lead to mold and mildew problems.

Also there's a great thread on here about fire block framing -
http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-fireblock-framing-37190/

It's basically a way to help suppress any fires that may ignite behind the drywall and hopefully prevent it from spreading upstairs.

Now I heard 5/8 makes for much more difficult door installations? Plus it's not stocked by the local big box stores (at least mold resistant versions)

 

[ToolSeeker]

There is no advantage to 5/8 on the walls. Yes the book has lots of pics. One word of caution buying your drywall at the box store will almost certainly get you the lightweight drywall which is causing more problems than it fixes. Now it's even causing problems with painting. You would be much better off to find a dry wall store.

 

[gizzygone]

There is no advantage to 5/8 on the walls. Yes the book has lots of pics. One word of caution buying your drywall at the box store will almost certainly get you the lightweight drywall which is causing more problems than it fixes. Now it's even causing problems with painting. You would be much better off to find a dry wall store.

Interesting. I was reading a few other threads, and the direction given was that the big box stores had the same quality drywall at better prices (due to bulk ordering).

I guess I'll have to try and see if there are any drywall suppliers around who work with homeowners.

 

[ToolSeeker]

Check with your box store but where I am they all only sorry the lightweight. Could be different where you live.

 

[gizzygone]

Check with your box store but where I am they all only sorry the lightweight. Could be different where you live.

It's hard to tell: my orange box store sells the Sheetrock mold tough ultralight which the specs online say 48lbs (obviously this must be the light weight version, given the name).

The blue box store sells tough rock mold guard: it doesn't say lightweight and comes in at 57lbs per the specs online.... But I'm not sure if this is still considered lightweight or not.

 

[ToolSeeker]

Sorry my mistake I don't think the mold resistant comes in the lightweight I was thinking the regular drywall.