[greenmama]

Hello -- BRAND new here, and married to a a diy'er, whom I love dearly but whom I feel it is my job to "project manage" (since I used to do that for a living, lol). I am a researcher -- he is not. So THANK GOD I found this forum!!!

Anyhow -- here is the latest (much more to come!): my husband installed new plank bamboo flooring in our living room. He removed the existing baseboards -- which were very simple, small and flat. The underneath (against the wall) looks fine. SO, he is thinking about finishing with only quarter-round (attached directly to the wall) -- and skip the baseboards. Is this advisable?

Our place in a so-cal townhouse 1/2 mile from the beach. Was built in 1981 -- has very clean, modern-ish lines, and that is our overall style. So, would this work? Or would you maybe go back to a simple baseboard, one that matched the paint color? THoughts, suggestions? (I am tired of looking at unfinished floor/wall trim!)

 

[PaliBob]

...... he is thinking about finishing with only quarter-round ....... and skip the baseboards. Is this advisable? ....

IMO it would look dumb. A simple primed mdf base at HD or Lowe's wouldn't be much more work than quarter round and it would look good by itself. No quarter round needed.

Tool List:

• Mitre Box & Saw http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002X232...A1QTD1JR6DNCXK&tag=dealt18112-20&linkCode=asn ( or Big Box store)
• Brad Pin Pusher http://ucanhealth.com/local/merchandise/?pid=38694&ptt=Brad_Pusher (or good Hardware store)

Supplies:

• Base 1-1/2 t0 2"h (Big Box Store)
• Brads, 1" (hardware store)
• Glue 8oz Titebond Molding & trim Wood Glue (hardware store)
  
• Paint

Procedure:

• Measure lengths required and combine for the longest manageable pieces
• Cut and Miter then dry fit sections
• On the back side of the base, number the consecutive sections
• Take sections outside to paint
• Install the base with brads using the brad push tool and just a drop of the fast drying Molding & Trim glue
• For any small gaps that may appear at the top of the base and the wall, force a little Molding glue in the gap.Wait one minute then push hard against the base to close the gap. The Molding glue gets sticky really fast.
  

.

 

[DUDE!]

I also have a "project manager" here as well. I think you would need the baseboard, most times it "hides" the gap of the wall/floor joint. And it offers some protection from your vaccum cleaner banging the wall. Before you buy, you could google and see what your options are. There is so many types of baseboard woods and trims. As for corner connections, you have options there as well. Here, my "project manager" usually picks out the "parts" and I get to install them. Have fun, enjoy

 

[yummy mummy]

I also agree with needing some baseboard.

To me, if I came to your house I automatically would think "it's missing the baseboard".......lol

Another idea, would be to put the corner round in and tape up about 4 inches all around the room, and paint it, to sort of look like a "fake" baseboard....

 

[Bud Cline]

YM, shouldn't you be grouting or something?

 

[yummy mummy]

Bud......:laughing:

 

[emperor_black]

A newbie question about baseboards...I have quite a few baseboards at the base of the kitchen cabinets. If I pry them out, remove the vinyl flooring and install laminate, they would sit higher than where they are right now because of all the underlayment and the laminate itself. Am I supposed to be trimming the base of the baseboards and then put them back where they originally were? Or should I just nail them higher, leaving the 1/2" gap for the laminate underneath? They are about 2 1/2 inches tall. If I leave them untrimmed at the base, I have a feeling they're gonna look "too tall" off the floor.

 

[Scuba_Dave]

If you are putting down new floor you install the baseboards after on top of the floor
At least that is what I would do

They are 2.5" too tall? :huh:
My baseboard is barely 3" tall all together
I know some houses have 5-6" baseboard
How are you concerned it will be too tall?
VS other rooms?

IMO very hard to get a straight edge without a good saw

 

[emperor_black]

ok. I wont worry about trimming them then. I just measured and they're only 2" tall. Probably I was unnecessarily concerned. Thanks.

 

[DaVinci]

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder!

About a year ago we did an addition to a $4mil house. No baseboards (or quarter-round) in the addition or the original house. It looks a little strange (you know something is missing - just can't put your finger on it), but it growes on you after awhile. I know of no requirement for baseboards.

Go ahead - get outside the box!

Paul

 

[Speedball]

I agree, we are considering downsizing all the trim throughout the house and maybe eliminating some.

 

[DaVinci]

Speedball,

A word of caution:

No base trim in this house cost the HO a ton of money. It was a nightmare for the tile, carpet, hardwood guys to get right!

Good luck

Paul

 

[ARI001]

The purpose of trim is to hide, accent, or protect. The base function; to protect the wall board (drywall) from damage. I would imagine a lack of base would also affect the appraisal value of your home.

 

[Bud Cline]

Baseboards are not just decorative.

They allow for expansion of the wallboard and the floor coverings. The baseboards cover the gaps for a finished look but the gaps are necessary unless things have been engineered to exclude them.

 

[DaVinci]

ARI001 & Bud Cline,

In response to both of your posts - I believe you are both right! But there is no golden rule (or Code) that says you have to have base boards. If you have no gaps to hide - if you don't care for the accent and you're willing to take responsibility for any damage that might be done - why not? Walls to ceilings are engineered the same as floors to walls - but we don't put crown moulding up.

I think my second post was honest - it's expensive and difficult - but not impossible! If that's what Greenmama wants, lets help them make it happen! There were already several posts saying "nay", I just spoke-up and said "why not".

I don't mean to sound combative here. I respect everyone here for their time and effort to help. I have gotten a lot from this site and I said in my intro that I felt it was my turn to contribute. If its outside the norm (but what they want) and there is no safety issue - lets help them do what they want.

Pardon the "do-do" and "that that" - just gets the point across!

Paul

I would also say that I would have sent Private Messages - I'm not allowed to because I don't have 20 posts yet - getting there.

 

[Bud Cline]

OK GOOD! Take it genius, I'm outta here.

 

[oldrivers]

i think everyone is right that responded , it all depends on what your plans are for the finish , they do make drywall accesories such as fry reglet and shadow beads that you can use to make the ends of a wall finished without baseboards, or trim . however when using these products you have to start everything from the beggining on the same page ,, but in your particualr project those types of beads wont work so baseboards are your option here. ive done a few jobs were we finished every edge to the floor and door and window frames where they didnt use any wood trim. but everyone has to do their job right inorder for them to work. like a poster above said it needs to be planned from the beggining. doors and windows must be fairly flush to the wall , the floors must tuck under the fry reglet etc and be installed first. so all the above are correct . :thumbsup:

 

[ARI001]

ARI001 & Bud Cline,

D,
First let me say my post was simply meant to state the traditional reasons for installing trim, and to provide food for thought as to this particular project and the need for trim. I was not criticizing your post.

In response to both of your posts - I believe you are both right! But there is no golden rule (or Code) that says you have to have base boards. If you have no gaps to hide - if you don't care for the accent and you're willing to take responsibility for any damage that might be done - why not? Walls to ceilings are engineered the same as floors to walls - but we don't put crown moulding up.

That is because in typical construction you are supposed to leave a 1/2" gap at the bottom of the drywall to allow for expansion and contraction. In addition you are supposed to allow the drywall to float at the top plate (no glue with in 6-8" of the top plate) and at structural headers. Please note that I said in typical construction. Also wood and tile floors require a 1/4" gap around the perimeter to allow for expansion and contraction. Yes I said tile- the sub floor expands and contracts and so will certain cmb's.

I think my second post was honest - it's expensive and difficult - but not impossible! If that's what Greenmama wants, lets help them make it happen! There were already several posts saying "nay", I just spoke-up and said "why not".

As I said I was not criticizing you. I think if you where able to do that then kudos to you for succeeding with it. I imagine the cost to do so would be high as there would be quite a bit of extra work involved. I also imagine you incorporated some of the techniques used to hang drywall in log cabins.

I don't mean to sound combative here. I respect everyone here for their time and effort to help. I have gotten a lot from this site and I said in my intro that I felt it was my turn to contribute. If its outside the norm (but what they want) and there is no safety issue - lets help them do what they want.

As long as the project is thought out I agree. The biggest problem with most projects is the people doing them (pro and amateur alike) don't think past what they are doing. I didn't take your comments as combative.

Pardon the "do-do" and "that that" - just gets the point across!

:yes: You are pardoned-this time!! :wink::yes:

Paul

I would also say that I would have sent Private Messages - I'm not allowed to because I don't have 20 posts yet - getting there.

:thumbup::laughing::yes::thumbup:

 

[DaVinci]

ARI001

Thanks for taking the time to respond. I took the two posts as criticism. I apologize for being overly sensitive! I need to chill a bit. If we can get Bud back to the thread, I need to apologize to him as well.

Pressing-on!

Paul

 

[ARI001]

ARI001

Thanks for taking the time to respond. I took the two posts as criticism. I apologize for being overly sensitive! I need to chill a bit. If we can get Bud back to the thread, I need to apologize to him as well.

Pressing-on!

Paul

I didn't feel you owed me an apology for anything. But thank you.
I learned a long time ago in this profession you got to let things roll off your back. There is almost always more than one way to do something. All of us make mistakes, and all of us have been guilty at one time or another of not explaining ourselves completely, leading to misunderstandings. Don't sweat the small stuff.

I didn't loose any sleep over it and I doubt Bud did either.