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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The soldered elbow at one end of the baseboard heating decided it wanted to start leaking today. 2 zone system, up and down. This is downstairs. Do I have to drain the boiler to repair this or will the zone just empty when I take the elbow out for repair and re solder. Do I have to shut the boiler off. How will the zone refill or how does the boiler refill. It is a Burnham ES2 boiler and most likely auto fills. I had to do a repair on this line 13 years ago, cut the line and used a sharkbite. It was on a straight piece. I might use a sharkbite for the elbow. I haven't decided yet. I have soldered fittings and done basic plumbing.
 

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The soldered elbow at one end of the baseboard heating decided it wanted to start leaking today. 2 zone system, up and down. This is downstairs. Do I have to drain the boiler to repair this or will the zone just empty when I take the elbow out for repair and re solder. Do I have to shut the boiler off. How will the zone refill or how does the boiler refill. It is a Burnham ES2 boiler and most likely auto fills. I had to do a repair on this line 13 years ago, cut the line and used a sharkbite. It was on a straight piece. I might use a sharkbite for the elbow. I haven't decided yet. I have soldered fittings and done basic plumbing.
Of course it does, it's thanksgiving day. Lol. If the leak isn't bad, then just put a dish or something under it to catch the water for now, enjoy your day and deal with it tomorrow.

If you want to unsolder/solder, then yes, you will have to turn water off to the boiler, drain that zone as much as possible.

Depending how it's pitched, water may still be trapped in the line. So you may have to end up cutting the pipe anyway, especially if the 90 doesn't have a bleeder valve on it for the water/steam to escape. Fittings won't unsolder well with any water/steam build up in the line. Just saying.

If you go the sharkbtry route, as you mentioned, no problem. Cut/deburr the pipe and push on the fitting. Done. Doesn't matter if there is still a little water left in the pipe or not. No soldering required.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I actually got some rubber and wrapped it around it with some hose clamps. It seems to have slowed it. I also have a pan under it. It was like that for about 4 or 6 days and I wasn't told about it. I won't be able to work on it until next Tuesday, I am working nights this weekend. I don't want to start it and then get stuck and have to go to work. The rug by it is pretty wet. I will leave the heat off in that zone so there really is no flow thru the pipe. I will probably go with the sharkbite. I have used them before with no problem. Once the water is drained from the zone will it refill by itself?
 

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I actually got some rubber and wrapped it around it with some hose clamps. It seems to have slowed it. I also have a pan under it. It was like that for about 4 or 6 days and I wasn't told about it. I won't be able to work on it until next Tuesday, I am working nights this weekend. I don't want to start it and then get stuck and have to go to work. The rug by it is pretty wet. I will leave the heat off in that zone so there really is no flow thru the pipe. I will probably go with the sharkbite. I have used them before with no problem. Once the water is drained from the zone will it refill by itself?
Yes, if you have an autofil valve. Most are set-up that way. Post a picture of the boiler set-up.

You will need to purge the line of air once you're done with the repair. Most boilers are set-up with a purge station, so everything can be done right at the boiler. If not, you will have to bleed each radiator on that zone, with a special key/flat tip screwdriver, etc., until water comes out to force all the air out.

Post a picture of your boiler set-up when you get a chance, so we can give you better advice. Thank you.

Have a nice Thanksgiving day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, if you have an autofil valve. Most are set-up that way. Post a picture of the boiler set-up.

You will need to purge the line of air once you're done with the repair. Most boilers are set-up with a purge station, so everything can be done right at the boiler. If not, you will have to bleed each radiator on that zone, with a special key/flat tip screwdriver, etc., until water comes out to force all the air out.

Post a picture of your boiler set-up when you get a chance, so we can give you better advice. Thank you.

Have a nice Thanksgiving day.
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I don't see a purge station set-up, so you will have to look for bleeders on the radiators and purge the air out that way.

Purge station would look something like this, where you can hook a garden hose up to it so you can purge the air out of each zone:

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The only place I have a spot to hook up a hose is on a line that looks like it feeds that zone. I have to finish tracing it out because it goes into a crawl space under the stairs. I was going to use that spot to drain it. Can I use it to also bleed it. Also thank you for taking the time on Thanksgiving to help me out.
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Are there any other zone isolation valves on that set-up at all? If not, you are going to have to drain the boiler and bleed all radiators after you make the repair.

The only two isolation valves I see is one for the main water going to the fill valve/boiler and one for all three zones. You need to trace out all the zones and see if there are any more. Post more pics if you find any.

Wait for beenthere or supers5 to look at your set-up and give you better advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Are there any other zone isolation valves on that set-up at all? If not, you are going to have to drain the boiler and bleed all radiators after you make the repair.

The only two isolation valves I see is one for the main water going to the fill valve/boiler and one for all three zones. You need to trace out all the zones and see if there are any more. Post more pics if you find any.

Wait for beenthere or supers5 to look at your set-up and give you better advice.

Can't I just isolate the 3 zones. I didn't see anymore isolation valve for the zones. Don't the zone Honeywell auto valves isolate the zone. If I shut the boiler and drain the lower zone no water will be made up.
 
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