So you plan on letting in a ledger into the existing wall studs for the trusses to bear on top of? Keep in mind most sizes have a 1 3/4" to 3 1/2" minimum bearing. You don't have a new rim joist going in to prevent end rotation so you'll have to use bridging or strongbacks. The stud spacing probably varies either side of 16"o.c. but never right on, so a truss at 19.2" might actually land on a stud. In my experience with that era of wood, it is darn hard to cut and you can't just knock the back of a notch and get a clean break like you can with SYP. Also the ones I've been in the floor joists are set on the foundation without a sill, then the 2nd floor is ballooned. Did the PO add a sill plate when he redid the foundation? That may be better bearing at least for the 1st floor.
You are adding 10" in height, that changes the elevations of your existing doors and windows. Or are you going with a top chord bearing truss to push the bottom chord down and just cut into the basement and 1st floor ceiling height?
You are adding 10" in height, that changes the elevations of your existing doors and windows. Or are you going with a top chord bearing truss to push the bottom chord down and just cut into the basement and 1st floor ceiling height?
