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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,
I’m building a 10×20 office in my backyard and have a concrete slab already in place. I want the height transition when walking from the hardscape around the building and into it to be as minimal as possible. Meaning I don’t want to have to step up when walking into the structure.

Would it feasible to build/frame the 10×20 structure like a shed – slab on grade, with no floor framing but then put down DMX and a subfloor on top of the concrete slab on the interior. Additionally, I would be sure to seal the exterior bottom plate so no water gets underneath. The structure will have a decent overhang and should prevent water from pooling in and around the building.

Thoughts or ideas on other options for a low height flooring option? Sleepers? or Battons? Or does everyone recommend a traditional 2×6 framed flooring to prevent future moisture/mold issues?
Thanks! Jon
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply! That insulated OSB looks awesome. So one problem I'm worried about is that the front of the slab butts up to another slab around the pool and is level. Meaning I have no way to build the structure to the end of the slab and I'm worried about moisture and water getting in. Although in the front I will have a 4 foot roof overhang which will help. See picture of slab where the structure will be.

Short sides and back will be all the to the edges with a gravel base outside for drainage but the front meets up with that older concrete pad around pool. Could I just use a vapor barrier underneath bottom plate and seal around the exterior bottom plate??
 

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Hammered Thumb
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If you want a level floor then just put a waterproof rug right on the slab. Or LVP at the most.

To take a step back, it looks like you are in a freeze/thaw climate. Not to mention assessments, building setbacks, foundations, and gung-ho permit for electrical, maybe HVAC, I would approach it as a pergola/cabana. You might fill in the sides temporarily for your current needs, but in the future it can be dressed down back to it's original state.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks all!

So I'm not sure I fully understand the flashing. Apologies. I'm obviously not a pro! To clarify I will have a sliding glass door in the front of the structure (right behind that diving board which I am actually taking out). So I will have a normal PT 2x4 sill plate anchored around the entire building. For the door, where does the additional 2x6 come into play??

Thanks
Jon
 

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retired framer
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Thanks all!

So I'm not sure I fully understand the flashing. Apologies. I'm obviously not a pro! To clarify I will have a sliding glass door in the front of the structure (right behind that diving board which I am actually taking out). So I will have a normal PT 2x4 sill plate anchored around the entire building. For the door, where does the additional 2x6 come into play??

Thanks
Jon
All the sliders we get here are flanged windows that are 3/12' thick so we set them on a 2x4 flush with the outside of the sheeting .

Most time we have a concrete wall below that and we put the flexible floor pan down onto the concrete.

As you have a level slab you would come out onto the slab 1" to 1 1/2"

Then you would install the door.

Then a metal flashing for the whole wall and below the door.

I will find some pictures. Hopefully.
 

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