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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I am installing recessed lighting and so far I have got all 8 installed no problem, except for the last one....

There is a 2x4 that I circled in the picture the runs perfectly above where I need to put the recessed can through with only about a 3 inch clearance between the bottom of the 2x4 and drywall. Also the red circle by the pink insulation is the edge of a false cathedral ceiling wall and that is the section I would need to cut out.

I would like to know if this 2x4 is structural in any way and if I can cut one section out of it between where I need to pop a recessed can up through the ceiling. My assumption is that it is not structural and these are laid down when they are building the house but I definitely need some advice. Thank you!




http://imgur.com/uGpmCE1
http://imgur.com/pPRJp25
 

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I would have to rake the insulation back and make sure that that 2x4 is on top of the bottom board of the truss before I said;

Yes it is structural. It ties the bottom of the trusses together. A new one can probably be added to the right of it and then it could be cut. Its purpose is stability so the new one should go at least 2 trusses past the cuts on each end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have raked it back, the 2x4 is sitting directly on top of the ceiling joists it runs across. If I cut it out I will only be able to extend a new one 2 trusses in one direction since the section I'm going to cut out is where it ends at the false cathedral wall.

Would I able to add a new one 3 or 4 inches to the right of where it currently is to give room for the recessed can's width?

I could always go over kill and add one to the right and left of it the one I cut out and extend it 3 or 4 trusses.
 

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Was probably put in during the build, so that it helped tie them together and gave them something to walk on.

Personally I would just offset the can and leave that 2x4 alone, since it also helps strengthen the trusses at that point, even though it is not a part of them.
 

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If it is a nook, it needs to be small sized puck lights, not regular cans. The cans will end up being too much. The pucks should be able to fit up there, if that sleeper is on top of the trusses.

Since it is on the backside, attach ine in the V a little higher and after done, pull the other one out and save for scrap lumber.

You may be able to use Simpson ties to attach the new one.. Get it down before it gets too hot.

Now if you want to while you are up there, you could actually make a catwalk and attach it to 2x4's on both sides of that V. It will give you a place to put tools on when up there doing the cans and lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I am using 3" shallow ceiling new construction can for a lower wattage 3" LED gimbal to highlight all the shelving.

Would it be sufficient enough to just attach a new one to the right across 4 joists and one to the left of the "V" across 4 joists. My assumption is that it would be stronger than before even if I cut out the current one. I only need to cut out across one joist spacing.

If I attach it in the V like you are suggesting how am I to extend it all the way to the cathedral wall like the current one is.
 

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To the OP, Over thinking things? As others have said the two bye is not supporting any weight, just keeping the middle of the bottom chords of the trusses In a nice straight line With both ends until either drywall or firring and drywall was added. Now it can be easily cut....and moved to wherever you want. Ron
 

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Stockfoot if you want to do a catwalk between the 'V' of the Trusses, you will need to rip the angle on the top of the 2x3 or 2x4 to place 3/4" Plywood or 1x12 along the way. It does help so that you are not playing Ballet in the Hornet's nest, trying to keep from slipping into the drywall.

Even if you just cut that one piece out, you can place another a little wider up a bit to let the fixture be placed.
 

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Lol, the truss bracing is REQUIRED by the engineering papers sent with the trusses, designed as permanent bracing. Not just something to walk on (though you could but waaay faster to run on the top of the bottom chords, just near/above the bracing). It is for lateral loads because the drywall ceiling alone is unable to satisfy these; http://support.sbcindustry.com/images/publication_images/pbrace.pdf

Just add another next to - before you cut a section out.

Gary
 
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Laughing out loud Gary? So you saw the truss design that the OP was working with? It is perhaps an Idaho specific thing......but I've worked on three residential buildings in the last year, all basic truss roof construction, and NONE of them had a requirement for permanent bracing in the area indicated they the OP. But then those houses were in RI and MA, not Idaho. So again to the OP, cut the thing out, put a new one in a foot or so back of the cut, and stop worrying. Ron
 

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Laughing out loud Gary? So you saw the truss design that the OP was working with? It is perhaps an Idaho specific thing......but I've worked on three residential buildings in the last year, all basic truss roof construction, and NONE of them had a requirement for permanent bracing in the area indicated they the OP. But then those houses were in RI and MA, not Idaho. So again to the OP, cut the thing out, put a new one in a foot or so back of the cut, and stop worrying. Ron
I have worked in Idaho. Just as none of us can say which truss manufacturer is used or what that truss manufacture required, Neither can you say that its ok to just cut it out without equivalent replacement

from what i can see in the pics op provided, its pretty safe to say they are following the BCSI and Truss Plate Association truss installation standards.
 

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Mingledtrash he can place a piece above and cut that section out, nothing will happen. The 2x4's or 2x6's are there to keep the trusses from kicking out at the bottom if there is a strong enough wind blowing from the face sides at the end of the roof. If the trusses are properly secured for high wind spec's, you can remove that one section and nothing will happen.

As we have already stated, he can move it up or on the other side of the 'V' and nothing will happen even if he removes the existing one to place it on the other side.
 

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Mingledtrash he can place a piece above and cut that section out, nothing will happen. The 2x4's or 2x6's are there to keep the trusses from kicking out at the bottom if there is a strong enough wind blowing from the face sides at the end of the roof. If the trusses are properly secured for high wind spec's, you can remove that one section and nothing will happen.

As we have already stated, he can move it up or on the other side of the 'V' and nothing will happen even if he removes the existing one to place it on the other side.
Hey gregzoll you and a few others are right, it can be cut out as long as a brace is add a 6" or so to the left or right and laps a couple of trusses past the existing brace. My intention was just to show that out here in the west permanent bracing on the bottom cord of trusses is a pretty standard building practice.
 

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Even in the Midwest and Plains, you are now required under new rules to brace any walls and roof joists & trusses, for up to 110 mph winds. Personally I would go the extra effort since I am up there and add Simpsons to help brace that 2x4 even further, and would go maybe up to two or three trusses on either side. Even going with the Catwalk, would be more for bracing, along with giving you a place to crawl across, without accidentally stepping in the wrong place.
 

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Sorry, my lol was in response to these remarks; "Was probably put in during the build, so that it helped tie them together and gave them something to walk on." --- no reason for the framer to tie them together where the bracing was installed (per most lateral shear bracing)- under the diagonal web chord, NOT on top- in the "v" for much better walking. Framers are paid by the house, any extra work (additional braces, rat runs, etc.) is free so they only do what is required, especially using extra lumber on a truss system the builder has to pay for.

"since it also helps strengthen the trusses at that point, even though it is not a part of them."- around here (seismic zone) we have been installing trusses per manufacturer's drawings forever, check your drawings or call a local truss company. I laughed at the dismissal without anyone checking the truss papers.

Keep in mind the wire runs with-in 10' of the access hole need covering not to step on, if Romex cable.

Gary
 
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