[autx790]

Replacing can lights is not hard. There is a junction box on them which you can pop off one of the side walls easily and have access (at least for halo ones). Go to the store and look at one, you'll see it's not much different than any other light. they have sliding bars that you nail to the joists (nails included). Just make sure you get an IC can which can come in to contact with insulation.

Not sure if it's worth pulling all the insulation out. Is your bedroom the room which doesn't have insulation (or less) over it? Some of the pictures makes it look like the pink fiberglass is laid out over the joists with little insulation below it. I would make sure theres insulation beneath it. It also appears you have insulation run all the way to the soffet and you do not want that. Make sure you have soffet vents and room for the air to flow. Of course i don't subscribe to the completely seal the attic theory. You'd expect to see the upstairs hotter as heat does rise, but you will notice a improvement when your attic is properly insulated. I have two out of three rooms with insulation properly done over them and one with nothing (going to be replacing the sealing soon). You can definitely feel a big difference when you walk through the doorway. I'm in south carolina with a tin roof so my attic gets considerably hot. I put up a radiant barrier stappled to the roof joists and then installed a gable vent. The manufacturer recommends setting its thermostat to come on at 105 degrees, but it never comes on unless i set it down in the 90s. Other than that, i have R-30 fiberglass placed between the joists. I removed everything that was up there when i moved in, but of course the pictures below are what I started with.

 

[HomeInsulation]

Hey WhataboutJ,

You are about to make your home so much more comfortable and energy efficient.

I'm glad you have some basic electrical skills because you're about to be in for a surprise. Replacing recessed lights is ridiculously easy! They have quick connect caps that accept multiple wires. You don't even have to twist wires.

Just make sure you spend a couple of extra bucks for the AIR TIGHT ones. Believe it or not, they sell IC rated lights with holes that allow for air to go right through. For $3 more you solve a major air leakage problem that you can cover with insulation.

 

[HomeInsulation]

Attic Stairs

Framing the attic hatch is not hard, although you will make quite a mess.

You'll need to transfer the load from the ceiling joists onto 2 temporary walls. One on each side of the opening you need to cut. Then you can safely cut into the ceiling joists without damaging your drywall or collapsing your ceiling onto your head.

The drop down stairway kits come in 2 or 3 sizes. Make sure you buy the kit before you cut the hole. It will give you the specific rough opening dimensions you need.

The directions and hardware for installing the stairway kit are easy to follow. At least from the Werner ladder kits I've installed. But you'll need a second pair of hands to safely install it.

I'll take a picture of mine later and post it so you can see the framing details.

 

[federer]

i have the same issue. with all that existing insulation i think its just easier to add to it

 

[Perry525]

Make sure you choose a place with enough head height to swing a drop down ladder.

Buy two pieces of 2x4 long enough to bridge over five joists.
Place in position and fasten to the existing joists below with coach bolts.
Cut out the centre joist and then make good with more 2x4s fitted across the cut joist,

Install drop down ladder.

Sealed lights tend to get very hot and the lights burn out early.
Suggest you replace with pendent lights and block up holes.
And fit insulation over.
This will help keep the heat under control.

Air flow vents can be a mixed blessing. Where you are they probably will cost you a lot of money as they enable the wind to suck the air from your home.

The removal of the lights will make a great difference to your heating and cooling costs.
The fiberglass that you have is not very good.
Fiberglass being an open cell form of insulation, allows the warm air from your home to move through it and more important it allows the water vapor produced in your home to enter it, with the chance that it will freeze, then thaw making the fiberglass wet and useless. Also you cannot lay things on fiberglass as being compressed it no longer works as insulation. Glass is a reasonable conductor of heat.

A better product is sheet polystyrene, buy sheets of polystyrene and fit them between the joists, if you fill the spaces to the top, you will have warm rooms upstairs and probably warm feet downstairs. You can then place the existing insulation over the polystyrene, where it will remain dry.

All of the above you can do.

 

[ccarlisle]

Sheet polystyrene - unless it is covered by something like wallboard - isn't fire-rated and is unsuitable for this purpose...In northern climates, blown-in cellulose would be appropriate once the light are changed, once the air-sealing has been done and once channels have been created at the soffits (ie. baffles) for proper air circulation. You may need a ridge vent or something at the top to allow air to move.

Mostly DIY except for insulation (perhaps) and the ridge venting...