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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am refinishing my basement and replacing the basement wiring, usually from 1 central light receptacle, with in-wall wiring. My intention is to spray foam my basement and have installed 2x3 studs on a 2x4 base.

Rather than drill through all the studs to run the electrical wire, I have adequate space between the stud and the wall (typically 1-1/2") to run the wire. I can't use typical ties or staples behind the stud because of the space limitation. So I'm looking for some way to attach the wire at right angles to the stud. I've tried the screw-in cable ties but they don't twist easily.

Anyone have any ideas?
 

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Best way would be to just drill them, it does not take that long to do it right.
Why would use use 2 X 3's and not 2 X 4's?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
1. 2x3's apparently allow the spray foam to bond behind the studs which should make for a better barrier. A recommendation which made sense to me. As well, it's an older home and the concrete foundation
isn't exactly true.

2. Drilling a 5/8" hole would put me near the back end of all the studs to maintain the 1-1/4" spacing to the front of the stud. And it would seem the wires are better protected being 3" (really 2-3/8" in today's studs) away from the drywall screws.
 

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Suppost to be using 1-1/4 screws so there only going in to the stud 3/4" so I hardly think you will be hitting them if you go slighty toward the back of the stud..
 

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Sounds like an engineer to me.
 

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The studs are not structural. They are not supporting a load from above. Drill every other one.
 

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Drill holes, use nail plates if your concerned with the clearance. Running it behind is sloppy and lazy. And as was said before, it's not a load bearing wall. If you are concerned with proper safe usage of a drill perhaps you could get some instruction on that from this site as well.
 

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ok, pound me for this guys, but if it was mine i would take a little left over 12 or 14 gauge wire and cut it about 6" long. loop it around the wire ran behind the stud and bring it back out toward you. pull taunt and nail a sheetrock or roof tack through both ends which are stacked over each other and you have it.
 

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Drill holes, use nail plates if your concerned with the clearance. Running it behind is sloppy and lazy. And as was said before, it's not a load bearing wall. If you are concerned with proper safe usage of a drill perhaps you could get some instruction on that from this site as well.
I disagree that running cables behind the studs and against a basement foundation is sloppy and lazy.

If you do choose to drill holes in the studs, you can leave the proper 1-1/4 inches in front and not install nail plates on the back. Even for 2x4 studs against a foundation wall it is okay to leave more wood on the front rather than drill the holes dead center.

Even though the wall is not load bearing, the less material you take out of the studs the better. Now gotta go change my reply on the home theater subforum regarding mounting the TV to the wall with only one stud carrying the entire load.

OT: Near me is a parking lot where the spaces were too narrow. Often cars would be parked off center*, leaving enough space for the driver side door and leaving many spaces in between unusable.

* OK IMHO pretending or imputing that the stall was properly sized in which case the painted line on the right side would really be further away.
 

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I disagree that running cables behind the studs and against a basement foundation is sloppy and lazy.

If you do choose to drill holes in the studs, you can leave the proper 1-1/4 inches in front and not install nail plates on the back. Even for 2x4 studs against a foundation wall it is okay to leave more wood on the front rather than drill the holes dead center.
Agreed drilling would be the best option, but as long as the support requirements are met, and protection from physical harm is observed, he could use about anything to tie or mount to the studs OP is asking about.
 

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You could drill small holes in each stud enough to fit a zip tie through and zip tie the cable at the back of the stud. Lots of effort, minimal material removal.

You could also use the zip ties with screw heads and attach just to the very back edge of the stud. No material removal.

You could also use zip ties with screw heads and fasten them to the concrete foundation.

OR

You could drill through the studs and run the wire. :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, I've gone from feeling stupid to moderately satisfied with my quest. I really wanted to understand my options and see if any suitable device exists (which appears it doesn't).

Anyway thank you all for taking the time to consider my request.
Now back to the Super Bowl.
 
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