[nobbyv]

Hey guys,
So long story, but when building our house last year we had a tight time window for getting the metal roofing company in and so the roof ended up getting put on with only a rough pine 1x8 fascia nailed to the rafter tails. So now I need to cover them. The issue is that the metal roof obviously has a bit of drip edge, but it only flares out about 1/4". So what I came up with is to buy a number of 4x8 sheets of 1/8" PVC. I ripped them down to 8' long strips of the correct widths to cover the wood fascia. But I'm having trouble attaching them: finish nails crack them, as do screws. I haven't tried siding nails yet. But wanted to see if anyone had any other suggestions for attaching them, or even a completely different solution besides the PVC sheets.

 

[Windows on Wash]

Pre-drill the holes? Is the spacing only 1/8"? Usually they hang the eave/starter trim off a bit. Does it really need to install all the way up behind it either?

 

[ktownskier]

Any plastic that thin will crack when you are trying to attach them with mechanical fasteners. PVC is plastic.

You can try pre-drilling when using roofing nails to minimize the splitting of the plastic.

A better way is to use a chemical fastener like an adhesive. Azek recommends the use of adhesive when attaching their trim boards and other others recommend the same for PVC trim. Just make sure it is meant to be used with PVC and it is exterior grade.

Has the pine been painted for sealed in some way? I would suggest doing that prior to putting the PVC trim on top.

Or, remove the pine and put on thicker PVC time boards.

Hope that helps.

 

[nobbyv]

Pre-drill the holes? Is the spacing only 1/8"? Usually they hang the eave/starter trim off a bit. Does it really need to install all the way up behind it either?

Duh, I feel foolish. I didn't even think to try pre-drilling.

Any plastic that thin will crack when you are trying to attach them with mechanical fasteners. PVC is plastic.

You can try pre-drilling when using roofing nails to minimize the splitting of the plastic.

A better way is to use a chemical fastener like an adhesive. Azek recommends the use of adhesive when attaching their trim boards and other others recommend the same for PVC trim. Just make sure it is meant to be used with PVC and it is exterior grade.

That might be easier. Pre-drill holes and shoot just enough siding nails to keep it up while the adhesive cures.

Has the pine been painted for sealed in some way? I would suggest doing that prior to putting the PVC trim on top.

I didn't think of that. Probably would be better to be safe and get some kind of seal on it before covering them up.

 

[rjniles]

I would use aluminum coil stock.


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[nobbyv]

I would use aluminum coil stock.


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I thought about that. The issue there is the fascia widths "walk" a bit. So here they're 6 1/2", and 20' further down they're 6 5/8", then 6 3/8". And I don't think even something as thin as coil stock will slip under the roof drip edge (if it did, it would give me some wiggle room to play with). It would be time consuming to scribe the coil stock. With the PVC, I plan to overcut the pieces a 1/2" or so, then trim them flush with a trim router and a flush trim bit.

 

[ktownskier]

If you have access to a break, (a way to bend metal) Get the widest width of each segment of trim. Bend them all so they cover the trim and the bottom edge and make a return. Kind of like a J (at least if this had the correct font).

Make it so that it come back up the back side at least an inch. You will have a straight edge all the way down. Cover the back side of the pine with a shorter piece of coil stock cut so that it reaches down to a 1/2" below where the "J" comes around the pine.

Where the pine meets the top, caulk with a good silicone caulk to match your coil stock, apply the flat coil stock first and then using a brad nailer with exterior nails, colored to match your coil stock, nail it along the stop. You want to start at the bottom so that the upper piece overlaps the lower like flashing.

When the back side is done, lift up the lower edge and apply a thin bead of caulk along it. I like to run a pencil line along the edge so I can follow it.

Next, starting on the bottom edge of the front side, apply a generous amount of caulk along the top where you want to slide the bent coil stock in. Slip it on and over the flat stock on the back. It should slide over the caulked bottom edge and smear it up. You may also want to apply another thin bead along the bottom edge of the flat stock as you slip :"J" stock over it. You can also bend the "J" stock out a bit to get it started.

Nail along the top in front and just below the top on the back. Put a thin bead of caulk along the edges if you want, but you probably don't need to.

The bends will give strength to the bottom edge.

If you don't have access to a brake, go to a gutter company, they can make them for you. You can also get them formed in 8-10 foot lengths for easy transport. Just overlap them by a few inches. And of course, caulk the overlay.

Prime the pine stock with an oil base primer and latex topcoat (1 coat primer, 2 coats color). The oil will penetrate and nourish the wood and the latex will create a good bond and help prevent mositure penetration. You can use oil top-coat if you want, it just takes a bit longer for oil to dry.