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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I'm converting a basement to living space and am putting an egress window in the new bedroom. The inside of the foundation is smooth, but the outside is very uneven and bumpy. I'm using a galvanized steel window well that is supposed to fit flat up against the foundation. How should I go about attaching the well to the foundation? Do I need to eliminate the high spots or smooth it out with extra material?

Also, is there a trick to attaching the lower part of the well to the foundation? The hole isn't big enough to get into it on the outside of the well and reach the bottom. I can't dig the hole any bigger. I've got a deck on one side and a concrete slab on the other.

Thanks!
 

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· retired framer
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How are you going to deal with drainage. Usually we go all the way down to the perimeter drain by the footing.

Your well should be distance below the window so you can add a heavy L bracket to the inside bottom so you can bolt it below the window.
Nealtw, the house is super old, so I don't think there is a perimeter drain. My plan was to put about 8" of gravel in the bottom of the well.
 

· retired framer
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Nealtw, the house is super old, so I don't think there is a perimeter drain. My plan was to put about 8" of gravel in the bottom of the well.
With the rough concrete I suspect the basement was added by underpinning the foundation from the inside, so you would expect the drain to be on the inside under the floor.

I would drill some holes in a plastic bucket and set it in the corner and fill the gravel around that so you can drop a small pump in there if needed.
 

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Points at the other posters highlighted that are jumping out at me:

  • Size. Looks a bit small
  • Drainage - need to go down to the weeper if you have one as a safey back up. If not drain tile, be sure to over dig by about 18" to 24" to your finished height and install a bunch of clean gravel. Be sure to have a cover on the well
  • Seal back to concrete - I would use the foam that Neal indicated and would hold that closer to the outside. If you clean the concrete well, you can then apply a sealant
  • Replace that grounding rod and make sure it is re-hooked
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Points at the other posters highlighted that are jumping out at me:

  • Size. Looks a bit small
  • Drainage - need to go down to the weeper if you have one as a safey back up. If not drain tile, be sure to over dig by about 18" to 24" to your finished height and install a bunch of clean gravel. Be sure to have a cover on the well
  • Seal back to concrete - I would use the foam that Neal indicated and would hold that closer to the outside. If you clean the concrete well, you can then apply a sealant
  • Replace that grounding rod and make sure it is re-hooked

So, use a foam strip and adhesive? It's rained pretty hard over the past couple days and there's just a small puddle at the bottom.
 

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As long as the sill is 44" from the floor or lower, it should be OK. It's plenty big, assuming the entire opening is available for egress.

Pass through (highest point in the window) can't be more than 44". I have seen them failed because when the window was open, there was an interior dam leg that was an inch. We normally make our cuts to 36" in masonry formations which allow for the buck frame, window, etc.



What I was looking at on that opening wall will need to be a casement. No double hung at the current size that I see estimated is going to work.


I think it is just under 6 sq ft opening most of our windows are sliders so bedrooms all get 4' wide and 3' high or bigger

5.7 sq/ft here with some allowing for 5 sq/ft on ground floor applications.
 
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