[figs]

I am building an outdoor fireplace. I have a question about attaching a CMU partition wall. What is the correct way to attach the partition wall (closest to the front of the photo) to the rear of the fireplace (left side of photo)? The total height of this section will be about 6 - 7 feet high.

Also, where should I place rebar in this structure? The sections are small with a lot of corners for structural support, so do I really need to fill this thing with rebar?

Thanks

 

[Ron6519]

Cut a piece of block to fill in the gap. Mortar it in as you would any other block.
At 6-7 feet high I would definitely include vertical support. Rebar with filled webs every 2 ft, along with horizontal steel in every course of block. Tie it into the fireplace block.
Ron

 

[figs]

Do I need to use any type of strapping to connect the two walls?

 

[Ron6519]

Mason suppliers sell a wire metal type grate that sits in the horizontal mortar joints. The big box stores also probably sell it.
You would use it to bridge the two structures together along with alternating the blocks in a weave pattern, As a matter of fact, you could remove the block on the wall and insert a larger block to intersect the wall. Or you could just do it on the next row up.
What plans did you have for facing the block?
Ron

 

[figs]

The structure is going to be stuccoed.

If I weave the two walls together, I will ruin the running bond pattern in the wall to the left of the image. I will have a continuous mortar joint from the top of the wall to the bottom. For structural purposes, don't I need to keep the running bond pattern?

Thanks

 

[Willie T]

The structure is going to be stuccoed.

If I weave the two walls together, I will ruin the running bond pattern in the wall to the left of the image. I will have a continuous mortar joint from the top of the wall to the bottom. For structural purposes, don't I need to keep the running bond pattern?

Thanks

It doesn't have to detract from the pattern a bit. See this post.
http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/cmu-course-layout-44165/#post272210

 

[Aggie67]

You want to buy something called horizontal reinforcement lattice. Durowall is the brand.

Here's a pic:

 

[figs]

Willie T,

Unfortunately, I don't have access to CMU specially made for constructing partition walls. Since the outdoor fireplace is going to be stuccoed, I'm not terribly concerned with the aesthetics of the block. Is there an easier way to connect these two walls without buying special block?


Aggie67,

Will Durowall work for connecting partition walls?

Thanks

 

[Willie T]

Yeah, Durowall.

Or try

Pioneer Landscaping Materials

- www.pioneersand.com
13460 W Westgate Dr, Surprise - (623) 556-5050
Directions and more »

Master Block

- www.masterblockinc.com
12620 W Butler Dr, El Mirage - (623) 536-3000
Directions and more »

Hanson Pipe & Products Inc

- www.hansonpipeandprecast.com
12600 W Northern Ave, El Mirage - (602) 278-9129

If these places don't carry anything suitable, maybe they can point you in the right direction locally.

Also try Superlight Block or AZ Block in Phoenix.

 

[figs]

Do you lay the Durowall in a T pattern? How long should each of the Durowall sections be?

Thanks

 

[Aggie67]

On the long horizontal run of durawall, just lay a piece the length of the wall. On the bull of the tee (the part that t-bones into the wall), run the durawall along that block and overlap the durawall that's on the run of the tee. In either case, it's normally installed starting on the first course above the footing, then every other or every third course. But that's with buildings and foundations. It's not a bad idea to use it on a fireplace, but it could be seen as overkill by some folks. The stuff is dirt cheap, so it's not going to break the bank to install.

The regular stuff is 9 gauge, or a hair under 1/8". Overlapping it is ok. In fact the splices on long runs are usually overlapped 6 inches and tied. They have heavier stuff, but you don't need it if it's just a fireplace.

 

[jomama45]

As a mason, I would second Aggie's advice. Durowall is cheap & effective. If you cant locate it for some reason, or buy it in small quantities, you could also use wall (brick) ties on every course to tie both sides together. Just be sure to put them on top of the bed mortar, not directly on the block.

 

[NJ Brickie]

as jomama said wall ties every other course would most likely be ok, depends on region. To be safe you can physically tie the two walls as Willie suggested. You do not have to worry about breaking bond on the wall to the left of your pic because you will only be leaving a pocket every other course to accept the intersecting wall. The pocket will only be on the side of the intersceting wall and the other side will pass through. As far as grouting/rebar what is common practice in your area? I would think that grouting a few cells would be enough but I don't know about your area.

 

[figs]

As far as getting an inspection, the city of Surprise (Arizona) said that an inspection is not necessary for an outdoor fireplace. I want to build this thing so it will last, so I am looking for some professional advice.

Are there any rules of thumb for rebar placement, Durowall, etc. when building structures such as outdoor fireplaces? I'm not really sure what is common practice in my area.

I already have some Durowall, so I will use that to connect the partition walls. Before asking on this forum, I didn't know that Durowall was used to connect partition walls.

Thanks for all of the help!

 

[NJ Brickie]

As far as grouting, around here 4' O.C. is pretty standard for most block walls. I would think a #5 rod would be enough for your needs. Wire (Dura-Wall) goes in every other course. If you are going to use wire to tie the two walls together I would do it the opposite courses that you lay the wire continuously through the wall. Just so they do not get in the way of each other.