[jonhayden]

Hi,

I've searched the web for ways of doing this and found 2 methods:

1) Use several steel rods or bolts that are attached to the studs and then inserted into matching holes on the beam.

This seems a little tricky since all the holes need to be aligned perfectly. And the holes have to be drilled perfectly straight and level. I've also read that the mantel can start to droop over time due to the weight of the mantel.

2) Use French cleats.

This is the method I want to use. But I wasn't sure how I would do the top cleat that is on the beam side. Do I just make the cleat and glue it to the inside of the beam like in the picture I attached? Or do I have to cut the 45-degree cleat right inside the beam and not use a separate piece? If I have to cut the angle in the beam, how would I do that?

I'm assuming this beam is going to be 50-100 lbs so I'm afraid that just glueing a cleat (and maybe screwing) to the inside of the beam might not hold.

Thanks for the help!
Jon

 

[de-nagorg]

When you glue the top half of the cleat to the beam.

Use PL construction adhesive, then screw it to it, until the adhesive sets.

The surrounding wood in either the beam, or the cleat itself will fail before this Adhesive joint will.

You will have an offset unless you figure a way to recess this cleat into the beam, so think a bit more about if you want to have the beam flush against the wall, or set out the thickness of your cleat.

ED

 

[jonhayden]

When you glue the top half of the cleat to the beam.

Use PL construction adhesive, then screw it to it, until the adhesive sets.

The surrounding wood in either the beam, or the cleat itself will fail before this Adhesive joint will.

You will have an offset unless you figure a way to recess this cleat into the beam, so think a bit more about if you want to have the beam flush against the wall, or set out the thickness of your cleat.

ED

Thanks ED! I was just thinking wood glue, but I'll try construction adhesive instead along with some screws. I want it flush so I'll figure out a way to recess it...shouldn't be too difficult. Thanks

 

[jonhayden]

For those of you that have used a reclaimed barn beam, should I plane the side that goes against the stone veneer or leave that side rough too? My thinking is to just leave it rough since I'm going to create a mortise joint for the cleat.

 

[de-nagorg]

You can recess the cleat , by using a circular saw adjusted to cut just the depth of the cleat, make several parallel passes in the beam with your saw, then use a wood chisel and mallet to remove the waste, and to square up the corners.

Gently lower your saw into the area to be cut at the beginning of each kerf, until you get the saw resting on it's shoe, then cut straight lines to the other end.

No need to plane the beam smooth, the veneer is not perfectly flat anyway, so there will always be some uneven spots.

With fitting and refitting, you can plane out most of those ugly gaps if you want to.

ED

 

[jonhayden]

You can recess the cleat , by using a circular saw adjusted to cut just the depth of the cleat, make several parallel passes in the beam with your saw, then use a wood chisel and mallet to remove the waste, and to square up the corners.

Gently lower your saw into the area to be cut at the beginning of each kerf, until you get the saw resting on it's shoe, then cut straight lines to the other end.

No need to plane the beam smooth, the veneer is not perfectly flat anyway, so there will always be some uneven spots.

With fitting and refitting, you can plane out most of those ugly gaps if you want to.

ED

Cool, thanks. That my thinking. I was going to use a dado blade on my table saw to do that exact thing. Doing like 1/2 inch depth increments until I get to the depth of my cleat.

 

[mako1]

Would be easier to use a router with a 3/4" up spiral bit for the recess.

 

[jonhayden]

Would be easier to use a router with a 3/4" up spiral bit for the recess.

Yep, I've thought about routing it out too. The only reason I'm leaning towards my table saw is I think I'll get a straighter line to attach the cleat. Even with an edge guide on my router, I could still go off track a little. my other thought was doing a combo of saw and router. Do the top of the mortise with the table saw for the straight line and do the rest with the router which doesn't need to be as accurate. Thanks for your input!

Jon