[a&b home]

Are you installing a cantilever beam or running the post to the framing?

 

[chandler48]

Will the 6x6 be offset at all or hit the triple head on? Where are you located. Post base holes may be a little shallow.

 

[Nealtw]

We would have to see what the city wants. It is different in many places.
You would not likely do what we do.

 

[DJaonnaes]

Plan was to install the post to the framing.

Post needed right under the triple joist. Both of the 2x10's, splice right at the triple joist. Not ideal. I tried to zoom in a better photo so show.

We are in Atlanta, GA. Per the prescriptive deck manual and deck plan that was approved for the permit the footings need to be 12" deep. Do you recommend we dig deeper?

 

[Nealtw]

Plan was to install the post to the framing.

Post needed right under the triple joist. Both of the 2x10's, splice right at the triple joist. Not ideal. I tried to zoom in a better photo so show.

We are in Atlanta, GA. Per the prescriptive deck manual and deck plan that was approved for the permit the footings need to be 12" deep. Do you recommend we dig deeper?

View attachment 722251

The trick is to do the post first and then fit the joist around them.
Why do you have a 3 ply joist there?

 

[DJaonnaes]

We would have to see what the city wants. It is different in many places.
You would not likely do what we do.

Thanks Nealtw- inspector comes next week for the footings holes before we can poor concrete so I'll try and be here to ask what they will want.

 

[Nealtw]

Thanks Nealtw- inspector comes next week for the footings holes before we can poor concrete so I'll try and be here to ask what they will want.

What is frost depth where you live. Are your holes deeper than that?

 

[DJaonnaes]

The trick is to do the post first and then fit the joist around them.
Why do you have a 3 ply joist there?

Agree and splice should not have lined up with triple joist- IMHO poor planning.

I noticed the framing had the splice for the 2x10's where it wouldn't line up with a post. I pointed it out to the builder and when I got home they had redone and cut out a section with the "new" splice right at the triple. I asked how the post would be attached and he said they would use a bracket.

I've been researching and haven't come across a bracket for this situation. I'm sure this has happened before and there is a solution but I want to make sure it's correct and will pass inspection and we are thinking ahead as the post for the handrails and pergola posts still also need to be attached.

The triple beam is due to a bay window.

 

[DJaonnaes]

What is frost depth where you live. Are your holes deeper than that?

Frost line is 5" in our zip code.

Footing holes are dug to 12"

 

[Nealtw]

Agree and splice should not have lined up with triple joist- IMHO poor planning.

I noticed the framing had the splice for the 2x10's where it wouldn't line up with a post. I pointed it out to the builder and when I got home they had redone and cut out a section with the "new" splice right at the triple. I asked how the post would be attached and he said they would use a bracket.

I've been researching and haven't come across a bracket for this situation. I'm sure this has happened before and there is a solution but I want to make sure it's correct and will pass inspection and we are thinking ahead as the post for the handrails and pergola posts still also need to be attached.

The triple beam is due to a bay window.

View attachment 722255

I have not seen a bracket for that, Hopefully the inspector will come up with an idea.

 

[chandler48]

I live in Young Harris (100 miles north of you) and the footing depth is a minimum of 12". It looks as if you are on a hill. Our inspector requires full continuous footing for the length of the deck, 24" deep and 12" wide. The added depth is due to the lack of soil cohesion on the precipice of the hill. Theory is that the entire deck won't slide off the hill if the footing is continuous.

I know it is a parallax view, but are the footings under the rim directly, or will there be a beam across it forming a cantilever?

 

[DJaonnaes]

I live in Young Harris (100 miles north of you) and the footing depth is a minimum of 12". It looks as if you are on a hill. Our inspector requires full continuous footing for the length of the deck, 24" deep and 12" wide. The added depth is due to the lack of soil cohesion on the precipice of the hill. Theory is that the entire deck won't slide off the hill if the footing is continuous.

I know it is a parallax view, but are the footings under the rim directly, or will there be a beam across it forming a cantilever?

Sorry about the bad photo angle of the framing- yes, the holes are dug directly under the frame and the intent was to attach the posts to the (2) 2x10 frame directly- not have a cantilever.

thanks- good to know on the hill. Yes, we have a slope running away from the deck posts. We are re-landscaping the backyard during this project- hence all the dirt.

Not sure if this has any effect but there will be a retaining wall built ~3 feet past the footings that will bring the soil up (and hold it in place). Sketch below (pardon the poor drawing- footings, etc would all be straight and level). We dug 12" and they will build frames to bring the footings up to level with where the bluestone pavers will be installed. The post brackets with 1" standout will sit on the pavers and be drilled/connected into the footings.

 

[SPS-1]

...

 

[DJaonnaes]

I live in Young Harris (100 miles north of you) and the footing depth is a minimum of 12". It looks as if you are on a hill. Our inspector requires full continuous footing for the length of the deck, 24" deep and 12" wide. The added depth is due to the lack of soil cohesion on the precipice of the hill. Theory is that the entire deck won't slide off the hill if the footing is continuous.

I know it is a parallax view, but are the footings under the rim directly, or will there be a beam across it forming a cantilever?

Your question about the cantilever got me thinking... could we forgo the plan of attaching the 6x6 posts to the rim joist and build a beam right at the end of the joist to preserve the area under the deck for the patio space?

Found this drawing online that might solve our problem to allow for a secure post to beam connection, just not sure how the joists then connect to the beam??? Maybe there is an intended bracket for that, I can research.

 

[XSleeper]

Is there a bracket or best practice for this that will be structurally sound and pass inspection?

See if they would approve a Simpson AC6Z on the outside of the post and rim and a LPC6Z on the inside. (Add framing to pad beam out to 5.5)

 

[chandler48]

The retaining wall will help solve the slip problem.

You can attach the posts to the rim using the proper post to beam Strongtie connectors. The only problem with that will be the newel posts for your handrails. You'll need to notch them to fall over the rim as well for secure fitment.

Brant types faster than me.

 

[DJaonnaes]

See if they would approve a Simpson AC6Z on the outside of the post and rim and a LPC6Z on the inside. (Add framing to pad beam out to 5.5)

Looks promising. I will ask inspector. Thanks!

 

[icerabbit]

Interesting you have the frame up before the foundation and posts. Missed the opportunity to do tabs on the 6x6 and bolting through the framing.

I'd personally do 24" of concrete, regardless of code, because it is a deck and on a hill. Maybe set the posts in 6-12" from the edge, but you'd need to add a beam the whole length, minimal cantilever but still looking normal, and use metal braces atop the posts to fasten to beam and the deck. Actually that beam idea in the image is better. Or maybe just put the posts forward 1 1/2 inches ... with a shoulder and tab to bolt through. No extra beam needed. Guess the inspector may decide for you what would be appropriate.

For the retaining wall, I'd use a drainage tube the whole length, with the sock over it and ample gravel / crushed stone at the base of the wall, before using regular soil, to improve drainage.

 

[DJaonnaes]

Interesting you have the frame up before the foundation and posts. Missed the opportunity to do tabs on the 6x6 and bolting through the framing.

I'd personally do 24" of concrete, regardless of code, because it is a deck and on a hill. Maybe set the posts in 6-12" from the edge, but you'd need to add a beam the whole length, minimal cantilever but still looking normal, and use metal braces atop the posts to fasten to beam and the deck. Actually that beam idea in the image is better. Or maybe just put the posts forward 1 1/2 inches ... with a shoulder and tab to bolt through. No extra beam needed. Guess the inspector may decide for you what would be appropriate.

For the retaining wall, I'd use a drainage tube the whole length, with the sock over it and ample gravel / crushed stone at the base of the wall, before using regular soil, to improve drainage.

thanks for the comments- agree on the frame- there have been a couple of missed opportunities which is why I'd like to plan everything out moving forward.

As for the wall- thank you- we intend to use drainage tube and gravel I just didn't draw in the sketch. thanks for pointing that out so it wasn't missed. I'm learning along the way