[dgfit]

My first soldered pipes after about 10 practice joints. I deburred, sanded and cleaned the pipes with steel wool, used brush attached to drill on fittings, and wiped all down with clean cloth. Applied flux to inside fittings and pipes, then heated from bottom and applied solder to top and let it flow into the joints.

I know some are ugly, but do I need to redo any of them? If so, what is the process to redo?

Thanks!

 

[dgfit]

could only post 6 pics per post so here are are more

 

[dgfit]

and here are the last of them

 

[dj3]

Some of them need more heat and the excess should be wiped with a rag.
I use a small mirror to look behind the joint to make sure I have all bases covered.

 

[SeniorSitizen]

Good job and i like those in the first pics better and you probably do too. I prefer to concentrate the heat on the opposite side of the fitting i touch the solder to, then when the solder flows to the right degree remove the supply of solder and move the heat around the fitting when possible and we know that's not always possible. That's my way of preventing the glob.

 

[MTN REMODEL LLC]

Actually, I can better judge the sweat joint when I'm doing it verse later. You can just see it suck in smoothly when you are doing it.

After the fact, look for that smooth solder line going completely around the joint....means the solder was sucked into the joint.

It takes surprisingly just a little solder to make that joint....but I think everyone when they first start tend to apply more than necessary solder to the joint.

With all your good prep, I bet you have good joints.

(A quick tip if you have more sweating to do....they make a copper cleaning brush for polishing the exterior/interior of 1/2 and 3/4 pipe. Manufacturer Oatey gets like $10 for them from Home Depot. I get them at Harbor Freight (just as good ) for $2....price may have gone up as I have not had to buy any in a long time.....as I've been using more PEX.)

 

[TheEplumber]

I compliment you on the prep, cleanliness and overall appearance:vs_cool:
As long as you waited for the joints to solidify before aggressively wiping you should be good. Wiping joints too early can cause the semisolid solder to crack. This leads to leaks.
Did you notice a difference when heating the brass vs copper 90's? A slightly different process, huh?

I also like the drop ear 90 orientation- that's thinking ahead :smile:

 

[Ghostmaker]

We will find out when you turn on water.

 

[dgfit]

Actually, I can better judge the sweat joint when I'm doing it verse later. You can just see it suck in smoothly when you are doing it.

After the fact, look for that smooth solder line going completely around the joint....means the solder was sucked into the joint.

It takes surprisingly just a little solder to make that joint....but I think everyone when they first start tend to apply more than necessary solder to the joint.

With all your good prep, I bet you have good joints.

(A quick tip if you have more sweating to do....they make a copper cleaning brush for polishing the exterior/interior of 1/2 and 3/4 pipe. Manufacturer Oatey gets like $10 for them from Home Depot. I get them at Harbor Freight (just as good ) for $2....price may have gone up as I have not had to buy any in a long time.....as I've been using more PEX.)

Yes, I did see it suck in. When I was practicing I did use a LOT more solder. I used a tool with brushes inside / out. I cut the inner brush out and put it in my cordless. Made it a lot easier.

 

[dgfit]

I compliment you on the prep, cleanliness and overall appearance:vs_cool:
As long as you waited for the joints to solidify before aggressively wiping you should be good. Wiping joints too early can cause the semisolid solder to crack. This leads to leaks.
Did you notice a difference when heating the brass vs copper 90's? A slightly different process, huh?

I also like the drop ear 90 orientation- that's thinking ahead :smile:

Yes the brass took a lot longer to heat up. Especially the valve.

I waited probably 3-5 minutes before wiping. Hooe that was long enough.

 

[dgfit]

We will find out when you turn on water.

Will I know right away? My biggest worry is that it works good for a while then days/weeks/months/a year later it fails.

 

[MTN REMODEL LLC]

Yes the brass took a lot longer to heat up. Especially the valve.

I waited probably 3-5 minutes before wiping. Hooe that was long enough.

Just an idea...I keep a spray bottle of water to cool the joint...just lightly to cool....not immersing or anything....just speeds up handling

 

[MTN REMODEL LLC]

Will I know right away? My biggest worry is that it works good for a while then days/weeks/months/a year later it fails.

Most likely will be fine if initially fine....however you do want to inspect closely, as any drip can be very minor and almost invisible.

I like having some newspaper available to wipe the joints looking for any leak if I am suspect of any leak.......for some reason, moisture or water will show up very well on newspaper.

 

[huesmann]

I like to wrap the joints with toilet paper (though maybe right now with the value of TP you want to use something else :vs_laugh: ). That way I can see right away if there's a leak, even if it's on the backside of the joint where I can't see in service. If you can leave the joint uncovered for a while, you can even leave the TP there and come back later to check for leaks.

 

[HandyAndyInNC]

I do not see any ball valves to separate the sections. This will keep you from having to drain everything in case there is a leak. Separate off sections house with valves.

I air test all my copper before connecting the water supply. I drop in some peppermint oil into the end of the pipe and then use compressed air to test for leaks. If you can smell peppermint at any connection or hear air, you have a leak. A lot easier than trying to drain everything to solder a connection after the is filled with water. I also use a pressure gauge on the adapter I create. I let is sit filled with air for a day or so. If air pressure drops back to zero, you have a leak.

 

[dgfit]

Water lines will be connected to dedicated valves on Pex manifold. This is for the tub in bathroom remodel that is currently still in studs. I will also have access to the lines from within linen closet. But it will be a few days before Durock goes up.

Thank you all for the tips on checking for leaks. Didn't see any of that in the YT videos I watched

 

[BruceLem]

The joints look OK. You might have wanted to wipe off the excess solder with a slightly damp rag right after you finished applying the solder. As a side note I see you've got some compression PEX (PEX-b) adapters and I would highly recommend expansion PEX (PEX-a instead). There's no metal crimps to fail and the ID for fittings is true size. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyDqu5K8DeY

 

[dgfit]

All hooked up and no leaks (I sacrificed a couple squares of tp for the test :smile

Thanks again everyone.

 

[Ghostmaker]

If your joints do not leak with initial turn on they usually will not. I would turn the water on wait for a day then start looking for wet spots on the wood or ground. That is what I look for when inspecting basement waterlines. The wet spots on the floor.

 

[dgfit]

Just an update - still no leaks so I think I'm good. Now on to durock / drywall.