[getdjc]

I have a problem in my kitchen where I've blown out 2 microwaves and am now replacing my 2nd ceiling light fixture. There are other issues around the house where lights flicker and light bulbs seem to burn out faster.

I used a multimeter on the wires for the ceiling light fixture and I'm at 126V when the switch is on and 5.1V when the switch is off.

I'm not sure where to begin with this one. Thoughts, anyone? Thanks in advance.

djc

 

[HotRodx10]

I was told many years ago that having an electric motor, or even worse, a compressor, on the same line as incandescent bulbs would shorten the life of the incandescent bulbs, due to out-of-phase power feedback causing voltage spikes. (Also detrimental to electronics for the same reason). I don't know if it's true.


Last year, we were losing the neutral feed on our overhead line, and it caused all sorts of problems with voltage spikes, especially when our furnace blower would start and stop. You might ask your electric utility to check your feeds.


One other piece of advice I'll share from painful personal experience - make sure the microwave light is off when replacing the bulb. I had to replace my over-the-stove model because the burnt bulb shorted while I was removing it, and it fried the main circuit board.

 

[dmxtothemax]

burned out electricals usually mean abnormally high voltages,
could be spikes or hash
You need to monitor mains voltage and see whats happening
first of all establish a pattern to it
when it is at it's worst put an ac volt meter on it.

 

[J. V.]

I would call the power company first and have them check their side of it. Tell them what you told us.
If they say all clear, call an electrician. Could be a loose neutral outside or inside.

 

[seharper]

First, turn off anything sensitive. Then, measure your voltages at every receptacle in the house. What you *should* see is voltages like 119V and 122V.

What you *may* see is a cluster of voltages around 135V, and another cluster of voltages around 105V just as an example. The voltages could be any number; the warning signs are a) they *add up* to 240V, but b) they are not equal.

Now, while you're checking one of them, turn on a 120V heater, hair dryer, toaster whatever... and go check one from each cluster. Did the voltages *change* and yet still add up to 240V? Then you have a lost neutral. This is an emergency. Call your power company and report an outage.

95% of the time, a lost neutral that affects the whole house is the power company's problem.

One time my sweetie said "I'm sorry the waffles are taking so long. The toaster is really slow." What!!?? Toasters don't slow --- oh snap.. I flew to get my meter. 102V with toaster off. 88V with toaster on. "Oh by the way sweetie, (neighbor) said her microwave just fried." That would've been worth mentioning. Went out into the storeroom, 138V with toaster off. Fortunately the complex electrician lives next door, so together we popped the cover off the ancient FPE Stablok master panel. Yup, 138/102V on the bottom of the meter. Power company was out an hour later on a Sunday.

I stayed with the power guy. Soon as he got up there, he grabbed the neutral wire and flopped it back and forth so I could see. Clean break.