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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to figure out best way to rough in these fixtures. (To be inspected, so must meet code). Planned to make connections and house driver in a jbox (octagon with cover) above in the ceiling plenum. But can the jbox be left loose sitting on top of drywall? It would be accessible, by removing the fixture, which is just held in with spring clamps. Any experience, advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm in suburban Philadelphia. And I'm trying to get photos up to show what I mean, but my iPhone photos won't upload :(
 

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A J-box cannot be left unattached. It would need to be secured to the structure. However, there is a bigger problem: virtually none of those flat LED fixtures are UL listed, which is required by the NEC for luminaires. This is now an archaic rule which should be abolished, but it's still on the books. The original purpose was to ensure that incandescent fixtures didn't pose a fire hazard. Light bulbs get very hot in normal use, so they require more careful fixture design than many other kinds of electrical devices. Most other types of electrical equipment are not required to be listed unless the local jurisdiction mandates it, but luminaires all must be listed. Since LEDs do not pose the kind of special fire hazard that incandescent lights do (and are less hazardous than plenty of other kinds of electrical devices) it no longer makes any sense to have this special rule. But it's there. So you can only use these imported unlisted fixtures if the inspector doesn't enforce that provision or there is a local amendment that allows it.

Because these fixtures are generally not legal for installation at all, the manufacturers don't seem to concerned about making it easy to comply with the other code provisions if you do install them. The detached driver module poses a problem, as you discovered. You need a decent sized box to put it in and the box must remain accessible (through the hole the fixture is mounted in is fine).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, mpoulton, for a considered and helpful reply. These are indeed UL listed (made sure, b/c of inspection), which makes them roughly 3x the price of the direct from China ones. Another option is to house all the drivers remotely and bring 16 ga in-wall rated speaker wire to each fixture, so the cable runs are low voltage and no jboxes required at all. Then I just could pull the line to the box(es) holding the drivers and leave the speaker cables dangling at locations right? If I were to do my original idea and pull 14/2 to jboxes/fixtures, is it ok for the jbox to be higher up in the ceiling cavity (as opposed to flush with face of drywall) as long as it's accessible by pulling out the fixture?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here are screenshots from the manufacturers installation guide that show my original plan. But here the jboxes are loose and pushed up in the hole after making connections after drywall is up. Kind of like a remodel can, except no integral jbox. My rough in would clearly not have drywall installed, since it can't be for inspection. Maybe I'll just screw the boxes in until inspection passed and then remove screw when I install the fixtures. I doubt he'll make me remove the fixture on final inspection. --Rebecca :)
 

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Looks good to me. If I were doing it and had to pass inspection, I might really consider putting the drivers in one central location and running low voltage wire to each fixture. It may be much easier depending on the layout and number of fixtures. Otherwise your plan seems fine. If the box can be secured to a framing member or to something on the other side of the ceiling cavity (I presume this is a closed, inaccessible ceiling space) that may be easiest. That way it's still "accessible" by removing the LED fixture from the hole and reaching in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
@mpoulton, Thanks again. Yep, closed, inaccessible. It's actually a very shallow plenum between exposed joists. That's why the need for ultra thin fixtures. I'm attaching 2x3s to upper sides of joists to attach drywall between joists similar to photo). The 2-1/2" plenum gives me enough room. But I don't want to attach the jbox to subfloor above (b/c future flooring nails). I figured, if anyone ever wanted to change the recessed led to a non low voltage fixture, it'd be easier to have the Romex and box at each fixture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That's a different style than what I have seen. The ones I have seen you bring wires to your driver that is part of an junction box, then you don't have to install a separate junction box.
@darren, Yes, the other ones either cost about $60/each (not happening); or the the integrated jbox is just slightly too big for my shallow application. These are about $34 total including jboxes. Non UL-listed are about $15 each.
 
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