[Sephora]

We are going to take out our cast iron tub and put in a new one...prob acrylic.

Tips on getting the tub out? A worker at Lowes last night told us that if we take all the tile and board on the 3 walls around the tub down to the studs we can prob take the cast iron out in one piece.

We are planning to demo the walls and put up new tile so that should not be a problem.

With regards to the new tub...I currently measure the old one at 5ft long and 30.5 inches wide. My BIL said to add 3/4 of an inch onto that because the lip on the long side is under the tile.

So that brings us to 31.25...does that mean I get a 32 inch tub?

 

[Bob Mariani]

To remove a cast iron tub, just break it up with a heavy sledge hammer and carry out the smaller pieces. It will break up very easily, it's too heavy to move. Standard 30" X 60" tub will work fine.

 

[wrangler]

Like Bob said, put on your safety gear (gloves, safety glasses, boots) and bust it with a sledge. It will take less time and effort than trying to get one out in one piece. And again, DO wear the safety glasses beacuse the porcelain will turn into tiny, super-sharp projectiles that will try to go everywhere (I like to shut the bath door as well to limit their target area).
Sounds like you have enough room to put in a 32" tub, and those 2 extra inches can feel like alot. And if you haven't thought about it already, now would be the time to replace/update your valve as well since you will have the walls open anyway.
Good luck!

 

[7echo]

Just replaced a 30" x 60", 9" to over flow with a 32" x 60", 15" to over flow. The new tub is huge in the small bathroom, but we wanted as wide and deep as possible. Got an acrylic tub by Kohler. The tub dimensions, rough in and install guides are on the web for both Kohler and American Standard.
Like the other guys said, break the old tub up. You don't want to tote that thing in one piece. Once you get everything torn out you will be better able to tell if you need a 30", 32", or larger. If the toilet is next to the tub keep in mind that there is a code dimension for the distance from the tub edge to the center of the toilet.

 

[brokenhammer]

Consider this

Before you labor on the removal, you might consider reglazing the tub. Usually you can get that done for around $300 and it will look like a million bucks.

That being said, if you rip it out, another tip I have found is to use a raggedy blanket when bashing up the cast iron. This will greatly limit the amount of shrapnel being launched into the air when you strike the tub. Just lay the blanket over the area you're going to hit and you're set.

As far as getting rid of the heavy cast iron - A local scrapper will take it off your hands for free - you might try craiglist.. post it and they'll come running.

All the best

-Ed

 

[Sephora]

Before you labor on the removal, you might consider reglazing the tub. Usually you can get that done for around $300 and it will look like a million bucks.

That being said, if you rip it out, another tip I have found is to use a raggedy blanket when bashing up the cast iron. This will greatly limit the amount of shrapnel being launched into the air when you strike the tub. Just lay the blanket over the area you're going to hit and you're set.

As far as getting rid of the heavy cast iron - A local scrapper will take it off your hands for free - you might try craiglist.. post it and they'll come running.

All the best

-Ed

Thanks! Went the reglazing route already and guess what...it is starting to chip and peel only after 1 year. I would most def of kept the original tub if only it was white and not pink!!! I wouldn't reccoment reglazing as it will chip near the drain somewhere down the road.

 

[Sephora]

Just replaced a 30" x 60", 9" to over flow with a 32" x 60", 15" to over flow. The new tub is huge in the small bathroom, but we wanted as wide and deep as possible. Got an acrylic tub by Kohler. The tub dimensions, rough in and install guides are on the web for both Kohler and American Standard.
Like the other guys said, break the old tub up. You don't want to tote that thing in one piece. Once you get everything torn out you will be better able to tell if you need a 30", 32", or larger. If the toilet is next to the tub keep in mind that there is a code dimension for the distance from the tub edge to the center of the toilet.

We were planning to buy the tub first as this is our only bath and we need to stratgically plan our steps in the demo process...I know, easier said than done! I am just confused on size and I know an inch can make a difference.

My BIL put in nice 12x12 stone tile previously on the ground that butts up to the tub. I am afraid we are going to ruin the tile and if we don't I don't know how a 32 inch tub will fit. Should I get a 30 or 31 inch?

 

[Thurman]

May I add --if you are planning on replacing your cast iron tub with a new one made of acrylic or fiberglass, keep in mind that you may have to make a "bed" to set the tub on to prevent the bottom from sagging when it has water in it. I'm not sure what they use for the "bedding" material but I've seen them do it in new home construction. I'll bet someone will chime in here with the answer, and I will learn. David

 

[brokenhammer]

On the reglazing side, did you do it yourself? I have before with awul results. The kits at the box store are garbage. If you had it professionally I'd suggest asking the contractor get out there and fix it, which should be a reasonable request...

As far as a bedding for the tub, I have seen and used concrete on several occaisions with success... not sure what else you could use.....

 

[7echo]

The instructions for the Kohler tub I installed specified mortar or construction adhesive. The adhesive idea does not sound right to me, but it is in the instructions. All the plumbers I quizzed(4) said to bed it in mortar or similar material.


I don't know if there are 31" tubs, everything I saw was 30", 32", 36", and up. Granted, I was doing a full demo and didn't need to worry about matching existing tile. You MIGHT be better off with a tub that extends far enough to sit on the tile, then adjust the height with a stringer across the back wall and the mortar bed to support everything. Then caulk in the tub to the floor tile and it will look built in just right. Plumber will have to adjust drain ht.

You will need to look at the tub spec sheets, they are often available on line, then figure out your exact dimension from the back wall studs to the tile floor.

 

[Sephora]

On the reglazing side, did you do it yourself? I have before with awul results. The kits at the box store are garbage. If you had it professionally I'd suggest asking the contractor get out there and fix it, which should be a reasonable request...

As far as a bedding for the tub, I have seen and used concrete on several occaisions with success... not sure what else you could use.....

Ohh boy...we used some company out of NJ to reglaze and who knows if they are in biz anymore...we are in CT.

Yeah, they sell stuff to make a "bed" for the tub at HD or Lowes. I forgot the name of it. My friend just put in a new tub and had to use it so when she got in the tub it wouldn't bounce or bend.

 

[mattman]

not sure if I missed it, but if you go with a wider tub you will have to move the centerline of your plumbing...not too big of a deal unless something is in the way.

Wish I would have known about busting up a cast tub.....talk about heavy, just thinking about it makes my back hurt.

 

[Sephora]

not sure if I missed it, but if you go with a wider tub you will have to move the centerline of your plumbing...not too big of a deal unless something is in the way.

Wish I would have known about busting up a cast tub.....talk about heavy, just thinking about it makes my back hurt.

Going from 30 inces to 32 inches is that much bigger to have to do this? My actual tub measures really at around 31 inches.

 

[interlodge]

tub

The tub lip could be behind the backer board+thinset= tile so 3/4" is probably a fair estimate but it could be bigger.
I used the kohler deep tub and everyone just loves it (especially the women) but it is very nice for the price. The drain center in 15 1/2" from the bare STUD wall and it was a easy fit for my existing plumbing. If I read you correctly I think you run more risk coming up short of where the tile was previously laid to with a small tub, then what? The larger tub can extend over the tile and the floor can be leveled to the tile plane with a plywood insert under the tub.
I do strongly suggest a mortar bed to set it in as one weakness to me is the support piers and plastic honeycomb underneath this tub. It feels absolutely rock solid when set in the mortar bed.
Make sure you use the correct mortar mix. Too much water or any lime mix causes shrinkage and the bed just shrinks away from the tub as it dries. check this for some guidance
http://www.johnbridge.com/deckmud.htm

 

[tribe_fan]

Before you demolish the old tub - can you get the new one in - length wise ?

 

[Wethead]

To remove a cast iron tub, just break it up with a heavy sledge hammer and carry out the smaller pieces. It will break up very easily, it's too heavy to move. Standard 30" X 60" tub will work fine.

Best way right there,

But why REMOVE a cast tub?

Do you realize that your baths will NEVER be the same?

Cast Iron Holds heat..............Please leave the cast tub and just re fit it or something.

People want to save energy these days and then go and remove the energy saving things in there home?