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Hi All,

I'm remodeling one of my bathrooms, and currently drawing up my detailed plan of work. Demolition at least is complete. I've seen a number of these threads, but they have varying levels of detail, and often have slightly different goals than me.

First, a description of the project. Installing a new tub, tiled surround up to ceiling (well, crown), tiled floor. Bath surround will be water proofed with redgard. On the non-shower walls will be beadboard up to 2/3 height. There will be crown around all walls (including bath/shower area). IKEA vanity and sinks, which require very particular plumbing. Replacing drywall and insulation on outer wall. I pulled down popcorn ceiling, so the ceiling needs patching and painting.

I figured out the order below based on minimizing both the work and risk of damage and/or paint splatter on the tiled floor. The one confusing bit was whether to do the trim before or after the floor. Doing it before means less chance of damage, but makes the floor install harder. Anyway, here goes, let me know if you see any problems:

Extend toilet supply pipe, install valve
Cut back sink supply pipes, install valves
Cut back sink waste pipes, install 90s to accommodate IKEA P-traps
Rough electrical
Ceiling exhaust fan
Skim/patch ceiling
Paint ceiling
Remove/replace wall insulation
Tub
Insulation around tub
Bath surround backer boards
Build inset bath shelves
Drywall (new) and drywall repairs
Tape backer board seams, skim with thinset, transition to drywall
Apply Redgard
Crown
Paint crown
Tile bath surround
Paint walls
Floor backer boards
Floor tile
New toilet flange
Door casing
Window casing
Beadboard
Beadboard cap
Paint beadboard/cap/window frame
Baseboard
Paint baseboard
Shower head
Bath handle
Bath faucet
Toilet
Vanity mirrors
Vanity lighting
Vanities
Sinks
Sink faucets
Towel bars and hooks
Closet shelving
Paint touch ups
Caulk
 

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Do all your drywall work at the same time before painting. A bathroom is so small it's quick to tape, coat, and/or patch. Don't install your plumbing valves during the rough in stage, extend the copper stubs to what you need and solder on caps. If you have to do drywall in those areas, you can just drill slightly bigger holes to fit over stubs. If the water line stubs are coming through the back wall of the vanities, the valves would require a much bigger hole. Trim after floor is in. Let it dry for a couple days after grouting and cover with a dropcloth.
Mike Hawkins:smile:
 

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this is how it is done on new houses in my neck of the woods. the only thing i am unsure about is the backer board i have seen it installed two different ways before painting at the same time as drywall and after painting maybe you can ask in a post over in the tile section which way they prefer pros and cons.

This order is all about efficiency.

Rough in phase
Build inset bath shelves
New toilet flange install temp plug. make sure its raised for tile.
Cut back sink supply pipes stub out and cap for now
Cut back sink waste pipes stub out and cap for now
Rough electrical
Ceiling exhaust fan/rough in

insulation phase
spray can foam any cracks in exterior walls
Remove/replace wall insulation
Insulation around tub


plaster and paint phase
Drywall (new) and drywall repairs
Skim/patch ceiling
Paint ceiling
Paint walls

tile phase
Floor backer boards
Bath surround backer boards
Tape backer board seams, skim with thinset, transition to drywall
Apply Redgard
Tile bath surround
Floor tile

finish phase
Vanities
Closet shelving
Beadboard
Beadboard cap
Door casing
Window casing
Crown
Baseboard
Caulk
Paint crown
Paint baseboard
Paint beadboard/cap/window frame


finish trades
Vanity lighting
Toilet
install valve connect supply to toilet
Sinks
connect drains to sink.
Sink faucets
install valve connect supply to sink faucet
Shower head
Bath handle
Bath faucet

Towel bars and hooks
Vanity mirrors(always always last:wink2:)

Paint touch ups

whoosh hopefully i didnt miss anything.
 
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