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Discussion Starter #1
First time user.

I've searched for a question/answer similar to my problem but did not found, so will try here for my specific situation.

I am attempting to install a Intermatic ST01 Timer to control porch and garage exterior lights (both on same circuit) with two current 3-way switches. I did all my homework on wiring, the instructions etc but did not find in the gang boxes what I expected when opening. I am totally buffaloed.

I was originally looking to see which common on which 3 way switch had the line and which switch had the common on the load (as what the ST01 diagram told me I should see). What I found instead was what looked like one common being wired into a neutral in one box with the other two travellers going into the wall. In the other gang the switch had all 3 wires coming from a single cable and no neutral that I could see. There are a total of 4 lights on the circuit, have no idea how they are wired. All I have is what I can see in the gang boxes and what I could determine from use of my voltage meter.

I then conducted a thorough checking of voltages on each switch terminal vs neutral with switches in all possible combinations as well as noting the light condition (on or off). This didn't really help me, as I observed approx 35 volts on some wires in some configurations and even when I disconnected all wires from the switches and tested each independently I got more inconclusive data. Some wires/configurations during the test did read 120 volts as I was expecting.

I have the results of this testing I could send through email if you would like to help.

Any help out there? I would like to have the remote 3 way act as an override to the timer (if off) but I would be happy if I could just find a configuration that would allow the time to work at either one of the two locations and the other just for connecting any wires that might be required for that configuration.

Any takers?

RBND (Retired but not dead!)
 

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First time user.

I've searched for a question/answer similar to my problem but did not found, so will try here for my specific situation.

I am attempting to install a Intermatic ST01 Timer to control porch and garage exterior lights (both on same circuit) with two current 3-way switches. I did all my homework on wiring, the instructions etc but did not find in the gang boxes what I expected when opening. I am totally buffaloed.

I was originally looking to see which common on which 3 way switch had the line and which switch had the common on the load (as what the ST01 diagram told me I should see). What I found instead was what looked like one common being wired into a neutral in one box with the other two travellers going into the wall. In the other gang the switch had all 3 wires coming from a single cable and no neutral that I could see. There are a total of 4 lights on the circuit, have no idea how they are wired. All I have is what I can see in the gang boxes and what I could determine from use of my voltage meter.

I then conducted a thorough checking of voltages on each switch terminal vs neutral with switches in all possible combinations as well as noting the light condition (on or off). This didn't really help me, as I observed approx 35 volts on some wires in some configurations and even when I disconnected all wires from the switches and tested each independently I got more inconclusive data. Some wires/configurations during the test did read 120 volts as I was expecting.

I have the results of this testing I could send through email if you would like to help.

Any help out there? I would like to have the remote 3 way act as an override to the timer (if off) but I would be happy if I could just find a configuration that would allow the time to work at either one of the two locations and the other just for connecting any wires that might be required for that configuration.

Any takers?

RBND (Retired but not dead!)
Please explain what you mean when you say,

"what I found instead was what looked like one common being wired into a neutral in one box with the other two travellers going into the wall."

Also, am i correct in assuming that you want the timer to control the incoming hot so that it only supplys power between certain times?

As far as testing is concerned disconnect the wire in both switches that is connected to the common (usually painted black) screw in each switch. One of them will be hot. Call that switch the "master" switch. At the other switch reconnect the wire to the common screw. Call that switch the "slave" switch. If my assumption is correct about only wanting power to the switch at certain times i would suggest the following... Connect yhe incoming hot to pne side of the timer. Then connect a black wire from the timer to the common terminal of the master switch. Leave the other connections alone. Now, be sure that the switches of 3way s are in the on position. At that point, your timer should only allow yhe lights to go on according to the times programmef into the timer.


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There are five way to wire a set of 3-way switches.

See this post for a description of the five ways.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/3-way-switch-z-wave-micro-switch-help-443250/

The best I can make of your description is that you have the fourth way.

That means the power is being fed to the fixture and a switch loop has been run to the first switch.
That mean you have no neutral at that switch. I have not reviewed the wiring instruction Intermatic ST01 but assume that it requires a neutral.

If I am correct, the only way you could use the Intermatic ST01 would be to remove the 2-wire cable between the fixture and the switch and replace it with a 3-wire cable.
 

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There are five way to wire a set of 3-way switches.

See this post for a description of the five ways.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/3-way-switch-z-wave-micro-switch-help-443250/

The best I can make of your description is that you have the fourth way.

That means the power is being fed to the fixture and a switch loop has been run to the first switch.
That mean you have no neutral at that switch. I have not reviewed the wiring instruction Intermatic ST01 but assume that it requires a neutral.

If I am correct, the only way you could use the Intermatic ST01 would be to remove the 2-wire cable between the fixture and the switch and replace it with a 3-wire cable.
Hkstroud - when i click on that link i dont see any wiring diagrams or discussions. Do i have to register there first?

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Hi Jeff
No, it just the post emax08 ask on Nov 1 about installing Z wave.
About six post back.
 

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RDMB

Apparently the Instamatic ST01 does not require a neutral
See this video

Pretty simple and clear instructions.

At one switch, you simply connect the wire under the common screw to the black of the timer. You connect the travelers to the red and blue of the timer. The common screw should be black or brass. It should also be marked "common".

At the other switch you connect the wire under the common screw to one of the traveler wires and add the pigtail. You connect the pigtail to the common screw.
 

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Jeff
There are no wiring diagrams on that post only descriptions.
I have wiring diagrams but if I post them here they will not be full size. I don't know how to make photos come out full size and you need them full size to see wiring connections.
I'll PM them if you are interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks to everybody for your input. In the end it boiled down to a silly mistake on my part. I assumed that the 3 way switch that had the common pigtailed to other wires meant it was neutral, as I've seen this in many other circuits that use a common ground. In fact, this was the line from the panel that was feeding multiple loads, including the one I wanted to put the time on. Therefore the voltage tests I took on that switch were bogus. Once I corrected my thinking, all the other tests were as expected and confirmed wiring correct.

To summarize, I learned a lot more about 3 way circuits than I even intended, the STO1 can be used in either 2 way or 3 way configuration, and does not require a neutral. If replacing a 3 way switch the red wire off the timer is essentially a constant hot traveller that can then be used by the other 3 way switch to turn on and override the timer. The remaining traveller on the 2nd switch is pigtailed with the common on the 2nd switch going to the load. This traveller was connected to the blue wire in the timer box. The last traveller screw on the 2nd 3 way switch is no longer needed.

Thanks Again,

RBND
 
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