How high is the door threshold bottom above the deck now?
Good question. There is actually a single step (approx. 5") down to where the composite decking will be.How high is the door threshold bottom above the deck now?
So you will have the frame sitting in moisture and no to little air flow .Good question. There is actually a single step (approx. 5") down to where the composite decking will be.
I'm going to be using a thin (3/4") plastic tile (RaceDeck FreeFlow XPS) for a walkable surface on the step.
I don't love the idea of the boards sitting in water....but the platform IS sloped (and I live in a dry place, 10" of precip per year and very low humidity). I suppose that some kind of thin, rigid plastic upon which the sleepers would sit would be a potential solution.So you will have the frame sitting in moisture and no to little air flow .
I would start with 2x6s and set them on hockey pucks to let the water flow below.
Trying to visualize this but I don't see it.Run your sleepers perpendicular to the slope. You won't have to cut any tapers. I used to do this on interior floors from converted porches. You can set up a stringline or use a laser to measure the height every 16" and just rip the sleepers to each width. Very simple.
I like the concept of some kind of impervious 'riser' to get the wood up off the wet membrane, but I don't think hockey pucks are the answer....too tall, plus unless I used a ton of them they'd end up concentrating the pressure.Hockey puck like in the game on ice, they are hard rubber about 1"x3"
I like the concept of some kind of impervious 'riser' to get the wood up off the wet membrane, but I don't think hockey pucks are the answer....too tall, plus unless I used a ton of them they'd end up concentrating the pressure.
I think that thin strips of plastic that are ripped to a width of 1.5", then tacked to the botttom of the sleeper, would do a better job. I suppose I need to look at what plastics are available for such a use. Would probably need to be 1/8 - 1/4" thick, "rippable", and hopefully not terribly expensive. Could probably use acrylic but that stuff isn't cheap. Might be able to use scrap from a sign shop or something.
Sleepers wouldn't be running downhill, but side to side on the slope. No taper needed. Fire up your table saw and let 'er rip! (Pun intended.😁)Trying to visualize this but I don't see it.
If the goal is for the top of the sleepers to be level, and the sleepers are running perpendicular to the slope (i.e. "downhill"), then I don't see how the sleepers don't need to be tapered.....
Check first if butyl is compatible with tpo. There was some talk in past about butyl incompatibility with other materials. is tpo pvc? Pvc has plasticizers or such. Other plastics or rubbers may have modifiers or such. One may melt the other. Sorry can't remember the specifics. I just learn the main facts after coming across them a few times and go back for fact checking. Check the general info or manufacturers' warnings about compatible materials.