[tjrettig]

My American Standard Freedom 90 Furnace only ignites about 50% of the time. It appears that the ignitor turns off a split second before the gas valve is opened. I replaced the ignitor hoping that a new one would get hotter and stay hotter for a split second longer, but it still only works about 50% of the time. I can use a lighter in place of the ignitor and get it to ignite 100% of the time if I do it manually.

Here is video of it failing to ignite:
http://youtu.be/RMZKuhxgXQk

After I took that video, it retried automatically and it ignited like normal. It is really hit or miss. I found two videos of similar furnacing igniting, and it appears that their ignitors stay on longer:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1iOdPVFTwIA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_ylUSxC9HY&feature=relmfu

The ignitor is part number IGN00054. Is there an ignitor that will stay hot longer, or is there a way to adjust the furnace to leave the ignitor on longer?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[NiNe O]

check that your outlet gas pressure matches your spec plate for the fuel you're using.

 

[JJboy]

Also check the igniter resistance....it should be close to 0 ohms.

 

[how]

That valve should be opening when the igniter is at it's hotest temp.
Board problem or slow gas valve are two other possibilities. If you are getting 24V to the valve a split second after the new igniter is starting to cool off, then you probably have a board issue. If you are getting 24 V to the gas valve when the igniter is hot and the valve is taking 3 seconds or longer to open, then the valve is the issue.( but that's not common)

 

[krez]

had this same prob with a goodman gmh95, when the ignitor was going out (cooling off) the valve would get the proper voltage, turned out after replacing the valve it still happened, i switched boards, same issue, it turned out to be the small 4 inch wiring harness (comes with valve) that connects the valve to the main board wires, was the issue,, that being said is this a possible solution for you, (wiring to gas valve connections)

 

[beenthere]

Also check the igniter resistance....it should be close to 0 ohms.

20 to 100 ohms. Some as high as 140.

 

[hvactech126]

clean your burners and make sure the manifold orifice for the first burner on the right is clear. While you have them out clean your flame sensor as well (has nothing to do with your current problem, but is good yearly maintenance anyway).

 

[tjrettig]

That valve should be opening when the igniter is at it's hotest temp.
Board problem or slow gas valve are two other possibilities. If you are getting 24V to the valve a split second after the new igniter is starting to cool off, then you probably have a board issue. If you are getting 24 V to the gas valve when the igniter is hot and the valve is taking 3 seconds or longer to open, then the valve is the issue.( but that's not common)

Thanks for the suggestion. I checked the voltage, and it looks like the valve is opening right when it receives the voltage, so it doesn't look like a slow valve. It just looks like voltage drops to the ignitor when voltage is sent to the valve - so that really points to a faulty board. I'm either going to replace the board, or wire the ignitor line up to a timed relay that will feed voltage to the ignitor for 30 seconds. My ignitors won't last as long, but I've got some extra ones from troubleshooting this......

 

[tjrettig]

had this same prob with a goodman gmh95, when the ignitor was going out (cooling off) the valve would get the proper voltage, turned out after replacing the valve it still happened, i switched boards, same issue, it turned out to be the small 4 inch wiring harness (comes with valve) that connects the valve to the main board wires, was the issue,, that being said is this a possible solution for you, (wiring to gas valve connections)

Thanks! I will try replacing that wiring too and see what happens.

 

[tjrettig]

I think it's fixed!

I think it's fixed!

While double-checking the wiring and deciding what to do next I noticed that the ignitor had rotated slightly on the screw that secures it in place. Because of that it had come in contact with the metal burner. I loosened the screw and adjusted the wiring to not pull on the ignitor, then tightened it back up and made sure it wasn't anywhere near the burner. That was last night. So far we've gone 24 hours and I haven't noticed any issues. Good timing, too since the last night was one of the coldest so far.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

Hopefully someone else will find this post helpfull, too.

 

[jc81382]

Hi everyone,

I know this is an older thread but I am hoping someone might be able to help me.

I also have a Freedom 90 that seems to have ignition problems, the only difference is that mine does not light at all.

This morning was the first real chilling morning this season so tired to turn on the heat to take the bite out of the air.

When i noticed the furnace never kicked on i went down to check on the lights (We have had back pressure issues in the past). I am getting a steady fast blink every second (I believe that means the thermostat is calling for heat). However the ignitor never comes on.

I followed the steps found in this and another forum.

I reset the board.

I removed the ignitor and checked the resistance - 17 ohms.

I even cleaned out the box and made sure the temp sensor was clean while I was in there.

Still no luck just a fast blink.

Any ideas would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!

I also checked that the blower will turn on when I switch the thermostat to "blow".

Thanks

 

[how]

Hmmmm.
I'm wondering if your board is at fault since it shows a registered call for heat but hasn't a resulting diagnostic code for why it will not ignite.

 

[yuri]

You believe it is a code for calling for heat but could be wrong. It may mean there is power to the board. Some have a heartbeat flash to show there is power. Check the code properly on the chart in the manual or on a sticker usually on the back of one of the doors.

 

[jc81382]

This is the flash code I have found for the Freedom 90.

INTEGRATED FURNACE CONTROL ERROR FLASH CODES
Flashing Slow --- Normal - No call for Heat
Flashing Fast --- Normal - Call for Heat
Continuous ON --- Replace IFC
Continuous OFF --- Check Power
2 Flashes --- System Lockout (Retries or Recycles exceeded)
3 Flashes --- Draft Pressure Error - Possible problems:
a) Venting problem
b) Pressure switch problem
c) Inducer problem
4 Flashes --- Open Temperature Limit Circuit
5 Flashes --- Flame sensed when no flame should be present
6 Flashes --- 115 volt AC power reversed, poor grounding or system voltage too low
7 Flashes --- Gas valve circuit error
8 Flashes --- Low flame sense signal
9 Flashes --- Check Ignitor Circuit and Line "N" to 24VAC "Common" voltage (≤ 2 volts)
[possible grounding problem]

 

[yuri]

Depends on what fast vs slow is. Turn the tstat to OFF and see if it slows down. If it does then it was calling for heat.

 

[jc81382]

Yuri,

Good point.

So I turned off the Thermostat to see if the "timing" changed and it didn't...

With the Thermostat off I reset the board just to be sure (switched power on and off within 30 seconds).

Flipped the Thermostat back on and raised the temp to be over ambient and it kicked right on.

I guess the flashing every second is not "fast" enough.

Thanks again for the insight.

 

[yuri]

Yeah, I see a lot of Carriers and they have a code where you have to count the slow and fast flashes and it is confusing.

Glad you got it going.