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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How do I get this door out?
I have an aluminum sliding glass door that sticks and wont close all the way. I cleaned the track with a wire brush & vacuum. It's not sticking as badly anymore but it needs to be fixed to it can close all the way & wont further damage the track.
I suspect the wheel is broken or needs to be raised as the door tilts downward slightly. I need to take it out in order to access the screw for the wheel and to inspect/clean the wheel.
This is a double pane aluminum sliding glass door likely from the 80's.
I can't see screw to raise or lower the wheel, however I can feel it with a screwdriver. I can't turn it. The screw being so close to the track makes it hard to turn and I dont want to strip it. I tried turning it unsuccessfully with a wrench. I then used a drill with long phillips head screw attachment but it didnt turn. I sprayed the screw opening with Wd-40 & let it sit over night but it's still stuck.
I tried lifting the door out but there's not enough clearance as they track is in the way.
 

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JUSTA MEMBER
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There should be a limiter mechanism up near the top, to prevent burglars from just lifting the door up to gain entry.

Look around up at the top for something to be removed from the inside, to lift it up and out.

Careful it is heavy, and costly to replace if you drop it.

ED
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Aluminum Sliding Glass Door won't close all the way

hi,thanks.let me clarify that the first problem i'm working on is getting to close the door all the way.when i close it, the lower right corner of the door is staying slightly open&i have to lift the sliding glass door to lock it. i felt around for the opening you were talking about but didnt feel anything at the top or bottom of the door like you described.

the original problem was that the door was sticking so it took a lot of force to close it.i figured that was due to dirt&debris as there's tons of pine needles outside.

ever since then the door doesnt close all the way.

what could be causing it to not close properly so it's all the way shut & will lock normally?

how to fix it?

it's caused a mouse to get in the house so it's created more problems :icon_rolleyes:
 

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Is there a removable piece on the top that will allow the top to tilt in? Some have it, not all.
 

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JUSTA MEMBER
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There might be interference of more trash on one of the rollers, or a broken / wore out roller.

Inspection of said roller area, by removal and inspection.

Do you have a label, or etched manufacturer on the frame somewhere.

You might get it's model # and check their website for disassembly instructions.


ED
 

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Most P-doors simply lift up & swing in for removal . However , you may have the proverbial "oddball" . I believe you must remove the screen door and the stationary slab (fixed glass ) to remove the operating side

Your 3rd pic appears to show a removable threshold . If you carefully pry this up & off you should be able to lift & remove the stationary side (to the exterior) & then the sliding side .THEN , you can check the wheel assemblies .

I highly recommend using this tool :

https://www.acehardware.com/departm...er&gclid=CLKJqd3N7-gCFf2vZQodm1oPSg&gclsrc=ds
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Is there a removable piece on the top that will allow the top to tilt in? Some have it, not all.
found & took pic of sticker on living room window. sticker says
code: CR-1 spec: HS-b2-HP (40) series: 900 mst: 10050
it's the same style of window in frame so hopefully it as the same manufacturer.

are you able to tell from that so i could advice specific to that manuf/model and be sure on which replacement wheels.with the lockdown you can't shop homedepot the way you ordinarily would and i can't really leave the sliding glass door open when leaving the house so i appreciate your help.
 

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Based on the information you provided off of the sticker, it appears as though the door was made by Empire Pacific Industries. Looks like they were maybe purchased by Cascade Windows some years ago.

For reference, here's how to look for the manufacturer based off of the sticker.
Go to: https://aamanet.org/pages/archived-certified-products-directory

Click on the Gold sticker in the middle of the page. This will open a PDF that will explain what the codes mean on your sticker

Back on the main page, there is a link to "archived certified product directory". If you click on the link, another window will open. Just enter the letters CR-1 (manufacturers code) based off your sticker, and it shows that Empire was the manufacturer.

Doing a google search for replacement rollers, if you go to slidingglassdoorparts.com and enter Empire in the search box, it will bring up a replacement roller they have in stock. Doesn't specify what years/models it works for, but it's a start.

Also, what others are saying, you SHOULD be able to remove the operator panel. If you can lift the panel up, but it will not clear (at the bottom), check for a humped/crowned sill or sagged header. Either of those may hinder getting the panel out.

Hope this helps........
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you&sorry for the delayed reply.
I see you say the manufacturer for the window is Empire, but how likely is it that the patio door is manufactured by Empire as well? There are no markings, stamps, stickers, etc on the door. Also, i looked at the https://slidingglassdoorparts.com/s...ent-housing-for-empire-pacific-and-alwindoor/ 3/4 Inch Wide Steel Replacement Housing for Empire Pacific and Alwindoor | - $23.50 SKU : D1618-D1619 How likely is this to be the proper replacement roller for this patio sliding door ? I'm concerned about having the right replacement roller to install once the patio door is off since it seems I wouldnt be able to get the roller replacement locally. In the meantime I've been watching many patio door removal and roller replacement videos as I haven't been able to remove the patio door.
 

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Havent read the whole thread but if you are trying to get the sliding panel out, I'm pretty sure that on that door you pretty much need to disassemble it.

Remove any fasteners holding the fixed panel to the jamb. Pop out the threshold cap that is in front of the sliding panel. Remove the fixed panel. A suction cup helps. Lift up, the bottom will tip out first. Once it has been removed the sliding panel will remove the same way. Lift up, the bottom with tip out first, to the outside.

Once you get the door out, take a roller out and examine it. That is the only way I would ever try to match it. No way I would order a part before I looked at the original roller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I still cant remove the sliding glass door.

I was able to remove the fixed panel by prying off the threshold & top caps then slid the fixed panel to be able to lift it out.

However, there isnt enough clearance to get the sliding glass door over the track. No matter how much I maneuvered the sliding door it wouldnt clear the height of the track. I lowered the roller on the south end (where the handle is) but I couldnt locate the adjustment roller screw on the north end. I didnt feel any resistance. It felt as if there wasnt a set of rollers on that side.

i was able to get the lower portion of the N side of the door exposed and still didnt see rollers on that side of the door. I took out the side bottom screw and popped out the bottom portion of that frame so I could take a better look with a light and camera but didnt see a roller. I put wd40 on the top screw so I could remove that side of the frame thinking it would give me a little bit of wiggle room to get it out from that side. I still cant remove the screw.

The south end of the door (where the handle is) makes it to the top of the track but the north end does not. I need about an 1/8th in to clear the track. (The N end of the door is 1/8" too long to clear the height of the track)

How do I get this door out without destroying the track?
 

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Take a bottle jack and set it on the floor in front of the door roughly in the middle of the opening. Put a 2x4 on top of the jack. The top of the 2x4 will need to be cut to fit the shape of the top track. So cut a saw kerf in it to fit over the lip of the frame. (You dont want to crush the frame when you jack, so the 2x4 needs to contact the wide flat parts of the frame, and the kerf you cut in the 2x4 will slip over the vertical part.)

If you just need 1/8" jack it just a little bit and try to lift the door out again. Typically this is a 2 man operation... it often helps to stick a thin wide putty knife under the wheel when you lift it up, so that you keep the wheel off the track. Like I said, a suction cup helps since you can really lift up on the door with it. With no suction cup you really need two people to lift, one on each side of the door.

With one person, you need to pry under the door to lift it, then stick the putty knife under the wheel so it cant get caught on the track. Then do the same thing on the other wheel.

And just to be clear, the sliding door comes out to the outside just like the fixed one did.
 

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I have a home on a golf course. Random balls sometimes can break windows.
One day a ball broke the glass on the stationary half of a sliding patio door. I replaced it.
A week later another ball hit the moving half....
Good thing this doesn't happen often.
Question: If a golfer can hit this glass from some 150 feet away, why can't he get a hole in one instead?
 

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I have a home on a golf course. Random balls sometimes can break windows.
One day a ball broke the glass on the stationary half of a sliding patio door. I replaced it.
A week later another ball hit the moving half....
Good thing this doesn't happen often.
Question: If a golfer can hit this glass from some 150 feet away, why can't he get a hole in one instead?
There is a difference of several square feet between the two.

Besides their aim is off.


ED
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Take a bottle jack and set it on the floor in front of the door roughly in the middle of the opening. Put a 2x4 on top of the jack. The top of the 2x4 will need to be cut to fit the shape of the top track. So cut a saw kerf in it to fit over the lip of the frame. (You dont want to crush the frame when you jack, so the 2x4 needs to contact the wide flat parts of the frame, and the kerf you cut in the 2x4 will slip over the vertical part.)

If you just need 1/8" jack it just a little bit and try to lift the door out again. Typically this is a 2 man operation... it often helps to stick a thin wide putty knife under the wheel when you lift it up, so that you keep the wheel off the track. Like I said, a suction cup helps since you can really lift up on the door with it. With no suction cup you really need two people to lift, one on each side of the door.

With one person, you need to pry under the door to lift it, then stick the putty knife under the wheel so it cant get caught on the track. Then do the same thing on the other wheel.

And just to be clear, the sliding door comes out to the outside just like the fixed one did.
Will you push me a youtube link showing me what you're describing? I have a vague idea of what you're talking about.
 

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I would be thinking about replacing a 40 year old aluminum slider.

Sent from my Lenovo TB-X606F using Tapatalk
 

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Will you push me a youtube link showing me what you're describing? I have a vague idea of what you're talking about.
It is simple if done properly . & easy to understand :

1. Either the header has sagged or the sill has heaved up , preventing the door panel from moving high enough to clear . Check the opening height on the sides , then check the middle if you want a visual .

2. You will be jacking the opening taller , to allow the door to be lifted higher .

3. Just so there is no misunderstanding , you will be jacking up the middle of the opening .

4. As X implied , you will be exerting probably hundreds of pounds of force . The top rail (the thin legs that the door slides in ) will likely crumple if you don't cut a notch in the end of your 2x4. You want to push against the structure (header) , not against the flimsy aluminum legs .
 
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