[paintdrying]

I have a roofing job in the spring. It drops 18 inches over 30 feet span. It has around four inches worth of layers on it right now. Feels fairly solid underneath. The house is brick and was built in 1908. I was thinking of laying down some furring strips and just going over everything with 3/4 tongue and grove. Probably be best to tear it down to bare wood and start over. Can someone tell me what is an adequate material to put down that is diy friendly and not too expensive. I was thinking just the asphalt role roofing.

 

[OldNBroken]

Sorry but everything you are thinking in that post is wrong, wrong, and wrong.

"Rolled roofing" is the worst thing you could install. Bare minimum look at torch down or single-ply (I'm not a big fan of em but they are CHEAP) or peel-and-stick (DIY friendly)

You MUST strip it down to the deck. Trust me, your house will breath a sigh of relief.

Odds are when you do get down to that deck you are going to find a solid 1x shiplap deck that, unless it's been leaking terriby, is going to be better than any other deck you could put down. May need some minor repair/replacement but that is easily done with 3/4" cdx.

 

[paintdrying]

Is torch down difficult? Can it be walked on? I can get the exact square foot in the spring, but want to ask, what is the next step for a diyer. I am fairly handy but would just as well have a pro do something the right way.

 

[jagans]

You are in my area of expertise. Send some pictures, where you live, if there are large trees around your building and a photo or two of the bottom of the deck if you can. Yes you want to tear off to the structural deck as ONB says. Torch down can be used but it is risky as hell with wood frame construction. There are several good single plies available, and you cannot do better than a properly conceived and installed BUR. Where are you?

 

[OldNBroken]

The only DIY system I ever recommend is a peel-and-stick. Two decent systems are Certainteed Flintlastic and GAF Liberty. There is a lot of info and instruction for them on the interwebs. I NEVER recommend torchdown as a DIY project.

 

[joecaption]

Only time a DIY should be doing a torch down is if there 4 months behind on there payments and have full replacement insurance.

 

[OldNBroken]

Only time a DIY should be doing a torch down is if there 4 months behind on there payments and have full replacement insurance.

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

 

[Roofmaster417]

Only time a DIY should be doing a torch down is if there 4 months behind on there payments and have full replacement insurance.

Ditto :whistling2:

 

[Roofmaster417]

The only DIY system I ever recommend is a peel-and-stick. Two decent systems are Certainteed Flintlastic and GAF Liberty. There is a lot of info and instruction for them on the interwebs. I NEVER recommend torchdown as a DIY project.

I agree. :thumbsup:

 

[paintdrying]

I am in Cleveland Ohio. Not much in the way of pictures until spring. That torch down did not sound like something I wanted to get into. Although I was reading about this torch down that you actually heat the material then lay it down. Is this peel and stick like the GRACE ICE AND WATER? I have used a good deal of this stuff called Acromax. Not sure how popular it is, but you basically roll this gray paint down then roll the material down, then roll more paint over it. You need to recoat every three years. Not sure if it would work on planking.

 

[OldNBroken]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LsMb-8nUxuI

Start here

 

[paulsmith544]

Sorry but everything you are thinking in that post is wrong, wrong, and wrong.

"Rolled roofing" is the worst thing you could install. Bare minimum look at torch down or single-ply (I'm not a big fan of em but they are CHEAP) or peel-and-stick (DIY friendly)

You MUST strip it down to the deck. Trust me, your house will breath a sigh of relief.

Odds are when you do get down to that deck you are going to find a solid 1x shiplap deck that, unless it's been leaking terriby, is going to be better than any other deck you could put down. May need some minor repair/replacement but that is easily done with 3/4" cdx.

Yes i think you are right he is wrong i guess he don`t now to much about Rolled roofing...

 

[jagans]

I have used a two ply SBS Modified bitumen specification for many years which incorporates a fiberglass reinforced first ply which is mopped in type IV hot asphalt, and a polyester reinforced, granular surfaced cap sheet that is torched (we like to say thermally fused) to the base ply. This has worked very well, and I have this type of roof in service now for over 15 years with literally no sign of deterioration. The benefit of this type of roof is that the roofer can get the building dried in relatively quick, then take his time with the cap ply. I agree with everyone else though regarding wood frame construction. No torch down there.

There has been a pretty significant swing toward the use of cold process with Mod bit though, and for the most part it seems to be working well. The peel and sticks will work, but the release sheets will drive you batty, and I would use cold process instead of these. Too much chance for air pockets.

Fully Adhered EPDM is another option that the OP should consider. He has good slope at over 1/2 inch per foot, and if he has little to no chance of mechanical damage that would be a good choice for him. He could do this project with one or two seams. I would use a one sided adhesive on his insulation, though, as it makes life a lot easier working with large sheets. If you keep the UV from hitting EPDM with a white acrylic coating, its life is yet to be determined. Use only Unreinforced EPDM at least .060" Thick.

Heat weldable white mechanically fastened single plies are available too but they require expensive welding equipment to install.