[zpafk6]

After making a couple of table out of pallets and nailing them together the old fashion way, I decided to buy a framing nailer to speed up the process and save my fingers. I picked up a box of standard 2 3/8" nails when I bought the nailer. After spending what seems like days sanding all the wood down so it can be stained, I finally got to the nailing part today. On the very first board I tried to nail, out of the 6 nails fired, 4 of them split the living hell out of the pallet wood. The nailer is only getting 75psi, which is having no trouble sinking the nails. I did some basic research on how to minimize this (blunting the tips/pilot holes etc), all of which is easier said than done with collated nails. Does anyone have any advice on how to overcome this? My project is at a stand still now because I refuse to destroy anymore wood that I spent so long sanding. I did a brief online search at the local big box stores for blunt tip collated nails that would fit my 21 degree nailer, but came up with nothing... Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[WhatRnsdownhill]

pallet wood sucks...its very hard..hence the splitting...try predrilling and screwing them or back to hand nailing, that gives the fibers in the wood a few seconds to stretch instead of crack...

 

[rjniles]

A framing nailer is a poor choice for your application. A 15/16 gauge finish nailer is the way to go.

 

[joed]

Try less pressure. When the nail starts not going in all the way you are too low.
75 is about what I use for 3.5 framing nails. Shorter nails should be fine with lower pressure.

 

[zpafk6]

pallet wood sucks...its very hard..hence the splitting...try predrilling and screwing them or back to hand nailing, that gives the fibers in the wood a few seconds to stretch instead of crack...

I use screws for every other part of the table except the table top.

A framing nailer is a poor choice for your application. A 15/16 gauge finish nailer is the way to go.

Fantastic. I initially ordered a brad nailer online only to figure out when it arrived that it basically shoots paper clip sized nails out of it. Did some research and came across a framing nailer after that, because it shot similar sized nails that I had been using when hand nailing. I guess I'll just have to see if Home Depot will let me return/exchange a used Husky nailer that I've only owned for about a week.

The reason I passed on the finish nailer and went straight to the framing nailer is because finish nails are not that much bigger than brads and I wasn't sure of their holding power.

Try less pressure. When the nail starts not going in all the way you are too low.
75 is about what I use for 3.5 framing nails. Shorter nails should be fine with lower pressure.

I guess I could try this and get it to where the nails only go in about 75% of the way, then break out the ol' hammer and finish them off that way.

 

[Colbyt]

For a table top I would using 15 gauge finish nails long enough to penetrate the lower stock by at least an inch.

 

[zpafk6]

Anyone have any recommendations for finish nailers? And would I just use regular finish nails? or a special type of nail?

Would prefer to spend less than $100 on the tool

 

[ront02769]

You skipped the middle, the 16 gauge finish nailer which is going to shoot nails up to 2 1/2" long in most models. In most cases the nails have more of a blunt end than do the nails that come out of a framing gun which go from sharp to full width almost immediately, are thicker, and are prone to splitting things. Doesn't much matter what air pressure you use with the framing gun, anything high enough to set the nail is prone to splitting the wood. Ron

 

[Colbyt]

My Senco cost a bit more than that. Here is one that meets your budget: http://www.harborfreight.com/34-angle-finish-air-nailer-61887.html

 

[joed]

I guess I could try this and get it to where the nails only go in about 75% of the way, then break out the ol' hammer and finish them off that way.

That's not what I meant when I said lower the pressure. You are only driving 2-3/8 nails. You should be able to do it with less than 75 psi. Trying lowering the pressure until you find the pressure needed to just drive them enough.

 

[zpafk6]

You skipped the middle, the 16 gauge finish nailer which is going to shoot nails up to 2 1/2" long in most models. In most cases the nails have more of a blunt end than do the nails that come out of a framing gun which go from sharp to full width almost immediately, are thicker, and are prone to splitting things. Doesn't much matter what air pressure you use with the framing gun, anything high enough to set the nail is prone to splitting the wood. Ron

How big of a difference is there between a 15 gauge and a 16 gauge nail? It seems like the difference would be negligible.

 

[rjniles]

How big of a difference is there between a 15 gauge and a 16 gauge nail? It seems like the difference would be negligible.

The difference is insignificant. Get the 1 your budget can handle and make sure you can get the nails for it locally.

 

[zpafk6]

The difference is insignificant. Get the 1 your budget can handle and make sure you can get the nails for it locally.

Well I was lost but now I've been found. I'm a fan of Harbor Freight but have never purchased one of their air tools, but I went out and picked up the 15g finishing nailer. I had to crank up the pressure to 100psi but it drives the nails in perfectly, just a couple of mm below the surface of the table top.

Lesson learned: Ask people who are knowledgable about a particular subject before you end up buying 3 nail guns...

 

[KathrynCecelia]

Do it by hand if it's important. Blunting the nails really helps. Pallet wood is not a decent wood for furniture. It may not perform well... thus, its use for pallets. I have used it for fencing with various results... depending upon what the wood was. Faster is not always better. Are these finishing nails? I think I'd use screws with predrilled holes. Should hold well and do away with the issue of hammering and the wood moving while trying to hammer. I think getting clamps to hold your pieces and using screws will give better performance and less issues with splitting.

 

[zpafk6]

Do it by hand if it's important. Blunting the nails really helps. Pallet wood is not a decent wood for furniture. It may not perform well... thus, its use for pallets. I have used it for fencing with various results... depending upon what the wood was. Faster is not always better. Are these finishing nails? I think I'd use screws with predrilled holes. Should hold well and do away with the issue of hammering and the wood moving while trying to hammer. I think getting clamps to hold your pieces and using screws will give better performance and less issues with splitting.

All the furniture Ive built so far is standing up just fine, pallet wood is pretty strong as long as you don't use pieces that are all cracked up. I use screws for everything that isn't visible, hence why I use nails in the top. I've got like 8 clamps I use to keep the wood in place while fastening, and to keep the project clamped down to the saw horses when I'm working on it.