[profcolli]

Thanks for looking, this is a little complicated. Basement bathroom reno - licensed plumbers installed PVC replacement for cast iron for entire bathroom, but layout is not very good (was done literally on the back of an envelope after breaking up the floor and discovering the pipes ran a different way which nixed the original design).

The rough in the plumbers left me with is for a sink on the right which only gives 18 inches between the tub and the sink (picture 1 = 2inch pipe on the left of the stack with vent above - sink drain wrapped around back of stack and capped, also vents the tub drain). After reflecting on the envelope design I want to move the sink over to the left of the room beyond the bath which will give me code clearance around all fixtures - the toilet is behind and to the right of the metal support post (picture 1 = tub drain rough-in on the left in floor, which is connected underground to their sink/vent, see picture 2 for layout).

Based on everything I have read (on this great site) I will need a vent for the sink which will now be on the left beyond the bath, so the plan is to go from the 2inch vent in the joist bay (picture 3) across the room, then over to the new sink respecting the .25inch per foot horizontal drop, then down vertically to the new sink, which will go left horizontally then down to tie in to the bath drain 2inch PVC rough in. The originally planned sink will be capped off permanently.

My questions are:

1) What type of connection must I use to tie in to below the (picture 3) 2inch fernco connector to run a right angle across the joist bay? Sanitary tee or Y? I can lower the existing PVC section connecting to the 2" galvanized vent pipe dropping out of the ceiling by a maximum of 3inches.

2) Should it be a 2x2x1.5inch for the vent across the bay and over at 1.5inch, feeding above the sink?

3) How do I tie in the new sink to the tub drain rough in 2inch pipe (picture 1 on left) bearing in mind that I need to put in a p-trap for a tub drain (will be a clawfoot tub mounted above the dricore subfloor with a knee wall for the plumbing drain access above that hole). Does the sink drain go in front of the tub drain p-trap or after it (where it connects to the 2inch PVC rough in)?

 

[TheEplumber]

Maybe its because its still kind of early here on the west coast, but I can't follow your story line nor your questions. Maybe a before and after drawing?
I will say that in regards to #1- santees can only be installed in the vertical for drainage- wyes can go vertical or horizontal

 

[joecaption]

Could be wrong but, that pex elbow in the bottom picture sure looks like it was installed wrong. Looks like the tubing was not slid all the way on and the crimp ring was installed to far out.

 

[TheEplumber]

Could be wrong but, that pex elbow in the bottom picture sure looks like it was installed wrong. Looks like the tubing was not slid all the way on and the crimp ring was installed to far out.

Thats a sharkbite 90 and a black talon anchor to the joist

 

[profcolli]

Thats a sharkbite 90 and a black talon anchor to the joist

Yes, exactly so.

The "before" is basically what is in picture 1. Tub on left (capped in picture), sink on right (capped in picture), both vented by that 2 inch pipe in picture 3 which goes across behind the stack and down. Result - insufficient space between the sink and the tub (the 4 foot level on the floor is to give an idea of the space).

I will work on a drawing for the "after" scenario - and thanks for your help so far.

 

[profcolli]

ePlumber, I did an "after" drawing on a 3D plan - hopefully this makes sense.

Thanks again for anyone taking the time to look.

 

[TheEplumber]

My questions are:

1) What type of connection must I use to tie in to below the (picture 3) 2inch fernco connector to run a right angle across the joist bay? Sanitary tee or Y? I can lower the existing PVC section connecting to the cast iron vent pipe by a maximum of 3inches.

2) Should it be a 2x2x1.5inch for the vent across the bay and over at 1.5inch, feeding above the sink?

3) How do I tie in the new sink to the tub drain rough in 2inch pipe (picture 1 on left) bearing in mind that I need to put in a p-trap for a tub drain (will be a clawfoot tub mounted above the dricore subfloor with a knee wall for the plumbing drain access above that hole). Does the sink drain go in front of the tub drain p-trap or after it (where it connects to the 2inch PVC rough in)?

1. use a 2x2x1.5 santee or wye- either one is fine because it is a vent in the ceiling- not a drain line. Orientate the fittings so condensate will flow back to the fixture

2. yes- support the horz. vent every 4'

3. Use a 2x1.5 wye down stream of the tub trap. Roll it up as high as practical and still stay out of the concrete. From the wye, pipe over to the wall, 90 up and put a tee in like your plumber did on the other stack. You can arm over to your lav location.

 

[profcolli]

updated "after" venting drawing

Thanks ePlumber - much appreciated.
Can you please check this updated version of the after drawing?

So I can drop the vent directly above the drain into the floor, with a horizontal trap arm across from the sink? This will save me some ceiling space based on the 1/4inch horizontal slope for the vent.

I have also added your suggestion (below the drawing) for the tub drain tie-in - just checking that this is what you meant (the 1.5inch Y would be standing up downstream).

FYI, the plumbing supervisor told me that our local code requires 2x45 instead of a 90 (except on a p-trap) so that is what I must use where a 90 would normally go.

I will post a dry fit after I get the parts - please bear with me - I really appreciate your help :thumbsup:

 

[profcolli]

ePlumber, can you please check if this is ok?

Thanks!!:thumbsup:

 

[TheEplumber]

ePlumber, can you please check if this is ok?

Thanks!!:thumbsup:

Looks good- lets see your dry fit:thumbsup:

 

[profcolli]

ePlumber - here is the dry fit

Looks good- lets see your dry fit:thumbsup:

Here it is - pic 1 for lav and pic 3 for tub upstream (which would go in upstream of the wye) - with a couple of new questions.

1) The tub drain (2" pvc pipe will be reduced to 1.5") is vented from the 2" pipe on the other side of the room, where the lav was originally planned (see pic 2 and pic 4). If I add a vent for the new lav location (connecting to that 2" pipe with the wye downstream of the tub drain) in the same line is there going to be a problem with 2 vents within 5 feet of each other?

2) If I still need the lav vent as well can I put a studor vent above that lav line in pic 1 instead of running across to the main ceiling vent line as originally planned (trap arm for lav will be within 24" with santee)? Studor would be 6" above highest flood rim (pic 5, laundry standpipe in same room connected directly into main stack).

Thanks for your help :thumbsup:

 

[jagans]

It appears that you are getting significant moisture through your block walls, does it not?

Also, I dont think I have ever seen 3 inch threaded galvanized fittings in a residence. You may want to get rid of that stuff while the getting is good?

 

[profcolli]

It appears that you are getting significant moisture through your block walls, does it not?

Also, I dont think I have ever seen 3 inch threaded galvanized fittings in a residence. You may want to get rid of that stuff while the getting is good?

That is an interior wall (if you mean pic 4 in my last post) - the signs of moisture at the bottom of the block wall were from previously leaking water heaters from the other side of the wall wicking underneath. Unfortunately, I have four of them and all have "burst" in 2005, 2006, 2007, 2010 - result = lots of water running through that wall to the sump pit The new bathroom will have a seal to prevent it coming to that side of the room :yes:

The vent pipe in the ceiling is 2" galvanized (everything below that has been replaced with pvc). I have two floors above with the same pipe and that will be a lot harder to replace, but there is no 3" galvanized (4" cast iron for the main stack above).

 

[profcolli]

more thoughts on dry fit

Here is another version - not sure if this is better than post #11 (I think I got the p-trap backwards there :icon_redface: ), but it shows the tub and lav connection together. P-trap final location will depend on tub selection, but in this general area.
Horizontal (45 at each end in post #11) over to lav replaced with a 22.5 at each end - not sure if this slope is too much.

ePlumber - can you advise and also check the 2 questions in post #11? :thumbsup:

 

[pkrapp74]

Are you putting the OSB directly on the concrete?

 

[drtbk4ever]

I think that OSB is dricore.

 

[TheEplumber]

Here is another version - not sure if this is better than post #11 (I think I got the p-trap backwards there :icon_redface: ), but it shows the tub and lav connection together. P-trap final location will depend on tub selection, but in this general area.
Horizontal (45 at each end in post #11) over to lav replaced with a 22.5 at each end - not sure if this slope is too much.

ePlumber - can you advise and also check the 2 questions in post #11? :thumbsup:

Refresh my memory- correct me if I'm wrong
The 2" is to serve the tub.
The 2"x1.5" y is for a lav

 

[profcolli]

Are you putting the OSB directly on the concrete?

No, those are DriCore panels with a built-in membrane providing a thermal break and drainage channels underneath the OSB :thumbsup:
http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/simpled-subfloor-basement-vents-168722/

 

[profcolli]

Refresh my memory- correct me if I'm wrong
The 2" is to serve the tub.
The 2"x1.5" y is for a lav

Yes, exactly so. The tub will be reduced from 2" to 1.5" at the upstream end of the wye.

 

[TheEplumber]

I added some comments on the image-
Reason for upsizing the lav line is because it's actually helping to vent the tub. The extra volume insures proper tub venting with the lav draining(wet venting)
Reason for rolling wye flatter is to get the lav line below floor- keep it graded for drainage though