[jackislost]

Hello all,

I am needing some advice on some lumber. Mainly where to find it. I have a deck I have been building at my house for sometime now. It is rectangle in shape and is 16'x32' squared, and sits no higher than 4 feet off the ground. I am a amateur at this and have been learning as I go. But to get to the issue at hand I need some advice on:

1) I can't cut a straight line with either a circular saw nor a miter saw. What tools have you used to ensure straight cuts?

2) Does anybody know where I can find a pressure treated 1 x 12 x at least 8 feet or more? Or a 5/4 x 12 x at least 8 feet or more? Or anything that is not a 2 x by 12. I could settle for a 1 x10 granted it was actually 10".

I will be using the above piece for my handrail and I have come up empty on my search.

3) Post skirts, do they have different widths for these thing? I see nothing but skinny wood post skirts, or metal and I am not into metal.

4) Under rail lighting-- where to find for the best price.

5) I laid my deck flooring and am satisfied with it, but we left two 5x5 spaces on the deck that we are going to put down tile. We have the tile, but what are the best practices for the subfloor and to ensure water does not penetrate the space?

6) Suggestions on a border for the entire deck, and along the same lines should a transition be added to the concrete pad that the deck butts up to?

last but not least,

7) I know that I can buy a pre-fab set of stairs, but I want to make my own. Any advice on how to do this would be great.


I know that you guys get the same questions everyday, and I am sure that a lot of newbies like myself are very appreciative of the advice you seasoned vets have to share. I will be greatly appreciative of any and all comments/ advice that you want to share. This is my first deck to ever build and lets just say I have been working on it off and on for the past year. It has been trial and error, and have learned a lot, but still have a lot more to learn.

Thanks in advance

Jack

I added a couple of pics just for a visual aid.

 

[de-nagorg]

There is a tool called a SAW GUIDE that is clamped to your panel, or your deck in this case, which creates a straight cut.

Also a pull saw works very well, but it is not powered except by ARMSTRONG.

The circular saw rides in the guide, cutting off the little overhangs around the edges, creating a perfect flush rim.

I would consider 2X redwood for the railing, just for the decorative contrast it creates, as well as it is readily available, and is as good as or better than PT wood.

As for tiling a deck, that is never recommended due to the different contraction / expansion factor.


ED

 

[jackislost]

ED,

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. Armstrong he is less of an option due to some disabilities that I suffer from, but I have been searching for something to keep that cut straight. I have read some about a track saw, just not sure I want to invest the money on something like that. Thanks again for the input and have a great day.

Jack

 

[WhatRnsdownhill]

that plywood is not going to last long, even if it exterior grade, maybe if it was pressure treated, but water is going to seep under the top layer and stay there, then also freeze and lift up the upper layer of decking...

 

[jackislost]

that plywood is not going to last long, even if it exterior grade, maybe if it was pressure treated, but water is going to seep under the top layer and stay there, then also freeze and lift up the upper layer of decking...

There will be Hardi Backer placed on top once it warms up a little.

 

[rjniles]

There will be Hardi Backer placed on top once it warms up a little.

The ply below the hardi backer will not last. You need a product made to install tile on a deck. Google "Finpan".

Or


http://www.homedepot.com/p/TI-ProBo...t-for-Tiling-Outdoor-Decks-TIP1FP08/202851489

 

[ront02769]

Item 1. Speed square with the circular saw; 2. Any real lumber yard can get that stuff. 5. That plywood will NOT last as previously noted. Ron

 

[Daniel Holzman]

You cannot cut straight with a circular saw unless you have a sharp, properly aligned blade. Doesn't matter if you use a jig, a straight board, or by eye, if the blade is bad, the cut is bad. So you may want to start by purchasing a new, carbide tipped blade. Then clamp a fence to the wood you want to cut, and use the fence to guide the saw. Or use a table saw.

As to why you can't get a straight cut with a miter saw, is it an electric or a hand saw? Again, the blade needs to be sharp and properly set to get a straight cut.

 

[ChuckF.]

Don't use the cheap steel blade that probably came with the saw. Get a decent carbide toothed combination blade.

You can make your own cheap guide with a piece of 1/2" plywood about 10" wide and a couple feet long, and a couple of C-clamps. Measure the distance from the both sides of the baseplate of your circular saw to that side of the blade and write that distance on the plywood. Use a square to draw a line where you want the cut, draw another line that much over, and clamp your piece of plywood there. That's your guide.

 

[jackislost]

Awesome, thanks everybody so far for the info that you have shared. Yesterday, I found "a real" lumbar yard finally. The owner is working up a quote for the items I need and then hopefully by weeks end I will have what I hope to be all that I need to complete the deck, HOPEFULLY. But I have a feeling I am missing a few things.

To rjniles thanks for the link, I will look at the product. Where the plywood is, that is my second attempt at that square, the first attempt got water in it before I put any tile down. So I definitely will take a look at the link.

To the rest for the saw advice, thanks. I have used different tooth, different name brands, tried to follow the laser tried to follow the first notch on the saw, the second, hell in between the notches. Used a square, used the saw guide, but I can somehow still manage to make slanted cut. Now the saw guide I was using was the one that came with the circular saw, not very durable.

Is there a difference between a normal circular saw and these new types I see, the ones that look like their one handed almost? See photo below. I will grab a blade with a carbide tip and see what the outcome is from that. I just need something that locks me and that saw in place throughout the whole cut. So that entails many factors, being able to see the line the whole time, not having to reach, no saw dust flying in the face magically getting behind my protective glasses, and comfort. I know thats a lot to ask for, but I am sure there is something out there for me. Thanks again everybody I appreciate the advice and comments.

Jack

 

[jackislost]

The ply below the hardi backer will not last. You need a product made to install tile on a deck. Google "Finpan".

Or


http://www.homedepot.com/p/TI-ProBo...t-for-Tiling-Outdoor-Decks-TIP1FP08/202851489

If I use this Finpan stuff, how will I make up the difference from the deck floor to the tile floor? As I see it now, I will have about a 1/4 drop to the tile. How can I make the two spaces even? Thanks

 

[rjniles]

If I use this Finpan stuff, how will I make up the difference from the deck floor to the tile floor? As I see it now, I will have about a 1/4 drop to the tile. How can I make the two spaces even? Thanks

Cut strips from 2x pressure treated stock and nail on top of the joists.

 

[de-nagorg]

When you cut PT , make sure that you re-coat the cuts with a preservative.

The PT is not all the way through the board, and it will deteriorate wherever the naked cut is.


ED

 

[rjniles]

PT lumber is treated to the core. It is placed in a heated pressure vessel to force the preservative into the wood.

 

[jackislost]

Got it thanks. I've heard both sides of the argument before. If you cut, be sure to treat the exposed part, and then I've heard that is PT don't worry about it. I did buy some Thompson Water Seal that I haven't used yet. Was thinking of taking it back to get something that is better since I was told Thompsons is not that good. Any suggestions? As always thanks for the input everybody, I am learning more and more. Have a good one.

Jack

 

[de-nagorg]

PT lumber is treated to the core. It is placed in a heated pressure vessel to force the preservative into the wood.

And if the treatment gets past 1/2 inch into the wood, you got lucky.

The place where you buy the PT lumber will have the proper item to treat the cuts with.

Thompsons has failed me too soon, as well as Helmsman's Spar polyurethane.

It is a trial and error attempt, for your particular environment, Maybe a local in your area can advise what works best there.


ED

 

[KathrynCecelia]

Nice looking project. I'll say from the get-go that I have done building for decades, but am not a "professional". I am a woman with an industrial arts degree and taught shop. I love working with my hands. With that in mind my remarks follow:

Question 1:use a speed square to mark your cut. Cut with a Power miter saw, holding the wood firmly against the stops on either side of the saw. Clamp it if you must. Take the saw down slo...w...l...y until it just touches the mark you made with the speed square. Cut on the outside of that mark, so it just barely removes the mark. Make sure what you're building is square. Your cuts if square will not seem square if your project isn't square. use the 3-4-5 system of measuring. measure 3' on one side; 4' on another that is 90° to each other and from the 3' and 4' mark you should get 5'... if not it is not square.

Question 2: Pressure treated wood has chemicals with a questionable history. I would NOT use it as a hand rail. Use something naturally resistant like cedar or redwood and just take a piece and rip it to the desired thickness.

Question 3:I don't understand a "post skirt". Sorry.
Question 4:Finding items you need depends upon your taste, pocket book, location and current sales. You need to be vigilant and watch stores that carry what you like. Go to stores known to carry what you are looking for. How much do you need, see if you can get a deal on volume or go in with a friend to get a volume discount.

I thought I'd like solar lights for under my handrails, Harbor Freight had them on sale, but it turned out I could not wire them together. Each one had a panel to charge. I wanted to mount the chargers on a west facing wall that gets a lot of sun, but I did not want 8 cords running over to the wall of the house. I just wanted one. So I had to return the solar rope lights. I'll keep looking.)

Question 5:I'd approach this like a shower job. I'd use cement board rather than plywood. I would coat it with the pink mastic stuff that waterproofs it, then I'd lay the tile. (Sorry I'm running out of time. There are a couple of waterproofing products out there ask @ the big box store for some help.)

Question 6: I like contrast. So I'd use a different stain on some different wood. Perhaps redwood, if you use that for the handrail. I would not put anything between the patio and deck, as there appears to be a gap. Keep the gap clean so your wood doesn't rot. The gap seems not too large,so as long as no one would trip because of it, I'd just leave it. Otherwise I'd probably use a metal threshold thats about 4" wide. It can be glued to the concrete and screwed to the wood, wouldn't add thickness, you could paint it as a warning that the person is leaving one surface and moving to another. Or spray it to match the edge treatment... like a reddish brown if you stained redwood. (That's my taste.) Do what you'd like, of course.

Question 7: Do your homework. Check out sites already up that show you how to calculate stair rises and widths, etc.

Nice job so far.
KaCe

 

[Mingledtrash]

Awesome, thanks everybody so far for the info that you have shared. Yesterday, I found "a real" lumbar yard finally. The owner is working up a quote for the items I need and then hopefully by weeks end I will have what I hope to be all that I need to complete the deck, HOPEFULLY. But I have a feeling I am missing a few things.

To rjniles thanks for the link, I will look at the product. Where the plywood is, that is my second attempt at that square, the first attempt got water in it before I put any tile down. So I definitely will take a look at the link.

To the rest for the saw advice, thanks. I have used different tooth, different name brands, tried to follow the laser tried to follow the first notch on the saw, the second, hell in between the notches. Used a square, used the saw guide, but I can somehow still manage to make slanted cut. Now the saw guide I was using was the one that came with the circular saw, not very durable.

Is there a difference between a normal circular saw and these new types I see, the ones that look like their one handed almost? See photo below. I will grab a blade with a carbide tip and see what the outcome is from that. I just need something that locks me and that saw in place throughout the whole cut. So that entails many factors, being able to see the line the whole time, not having to reach, no saw dust flying in the face magically getting behind my protective glasses, and comfort. I know thats a lot to ask for, but I am sure there is something out there for me. Thanks again everybody I appreciate the advice and comments.

Jack

The worm drive skil saws make a huge difference in how straight your cuts are, especially ripping down plywood. skil brand has a new one out that is much lighter but ridgid and makita also make good saws. If i was to rank them personaly it would be Skil, Ridgid, Makita, Dewault but they are all darn good saws. Make sure you get the either a right hand or left hand to match which hand you use to operate it. you will notice that the blade on a worm drive is on the opposite side(where it belongs) as a regular circular saw making it much easier to see where you are cutting. a worm drive also spins slower but has higher torque so use extreme caution.

 

[jackislost]

Ok, sorry I have been slacking the last day and a half. We got a bunch of snow yesterday so I have been enjoying it with the daughter. Unfortunately it was not good sledding snow. So we just kinda rolled around in it.

KaCe, thanks for the input and your thoroughness on answering all the questions I have/ had. I will give you guys/ gals a update of where I am now.

So, I have my handrail wood and will be installing it soon. I installed some cup holders so I am currently looking for the best way to waterproof that area. Whether that be an actual cup holder or if I find some waterproof type tarp (visquene or bisqueen, however you spell that) stuff to outline the area. I bought some LED lights from Home Depot and also bought a 5 foot drill bit to drill into the post so that I can hide my wires. I had a electrician buddy pre hang the pipe for the wires to run through now I just got to get down to them.

I got my stair stringer layout template from the company I bought the 1 x 12 western red cedar handrail from. So I will do them soon. Hope to have the handrail on by middle of week. The transition from the concrete pad to the deck, I had pre cut some channels for the water to drain so I will probably throw down a transition and some caulk to help keep water out. The post skirts are the lower covering of the post. Not the cap, but the bottom of the post. The company that provided the handrail is creating a skirt for me that should come close to about a 1.5 inch wide skirt that had 2 layers or steps however you like to call it. I think it should be uniques and thats what I like. I don't want someone to say hey I saw that at home depot, I want people to say man where did you get that at?

Tomorrow will be installing the wires for the lights and also the middle of the handrail. All the stuff under the handrail, lattice or whatever. See picture below for an idea of what I am doing.

As far as a saw or cutting straight, I have been getting better, bought a new blade, but have yet to use it or the circular saw. Have been using the miter saw lately. Have been looking at the X2 from Rockwell https://www.rockwelltools.com/en-US/BladeRunner-X2.aspx as a do it all saw. Supposedly it can cut tile, which would be a great deal since I will need to cut tile soon. The only issue I can see with that saw is the ability to handle bigger wood. But I guess I can use the circular saw for all the bigger wood. I bought a Kreg Cross Cut guide which I haven't gotten to use yet, but it was the cheapest way to start to see if I need or can use some type of tool to help cut straight.

I have been looking at different circular saws, something that is a little more friendly with my hands. I have a lot of issues with my hands and wrist and the current saw I use (Ryobi, 7 1/4 corded) is not treating me well. I usually have numb hands most of the day, but since using this saw it is about 10 x worse to where I can't feel most things that I pick up throughout the day. The makita and the bosch brand seem to be the most friendly for those who have CTS (carpel Tunnel) or HAVS (hand arm vibration syndrome), which after some research my current state of my hands, or lack of feeling, I probably should not use any tools. But, I am so close to done, and I meet with a surgeon on 15FEB16 so I need to get this done before any surgery takes place, if not I will probably not be able to finish until mid summer.

Ok, I am done with this novel. Thanks everybody for the advice and comments, keep them coming, its nice to hear from some seasoned vets on what has or hasn't worked for them. And the tiled area is still in limbo on what to do as of now. Have a good one.

Jack


Handrail middle, and random pics, yes that handrail is not very straight there I know but once I put the cup holders in, in shored it up quite a bit.

 

[jackislost]

Stair Advice

Ok, maybe someone can help me with my stairs. The guys at the wood shop marked me a 2 x 12 for my stairs. It was 7/11 (rise over run). I have right about a 33" drop off my deck and 36" wide hole for the stairs to run. I have already cut the 2 x 12's and I am not sure how to mount them, nor am I sure they are the right rise/run. What I would like to do is somehow have the stairs mount to the 2 post I have at the handrail and then the first step would be level with the deck, is this possible? As of now my 2x 12 does not sit flush with anything, how do I fix this? I don't want to start cutting my 2 x 12 and screw my stairs up. Any advice would be awesome.

I attached a picture of where the stairs are going.