Please post some pictures so we can see what your seeing.
It has a steel frame because it is a fire rated garage door. Some are made to be adjustable, if it is it will have a slip joint where it adjusts for wall thickness. If not, field modification to a fire rated assembly renders its listing void. If it doesn’t adjust to fit properly, replace it with a fire rated unit that fits.
Hard without pix. You took off knotty pine which was 3/4” likely. If there is nothing on that wall except the door, just throw up two layers of 5/8 fire code and thicker trim and you should be good to go.
Please post some pictures so we can see what your seeing.
So add a 2x4 around the door and 1 1/2 foam board over the rest of the wall.:wink2:I have posted pictures below. Please let me know if you would like more.
So add a 2x4 around the door and 1 1/2 foam board over the rest of the wall.:wink2:
I would talk it over with the inspectors, they just want you to get it right.Will that cause a problem if I have the vapor retarder below the foam board? I need to have the insulation inspected before I can proceed with the interior wall covering, so I will need to put up the vapor retarder over the mineral wool in order to have it inspected. Once the inspection passes, then I was planning on putting up the foam board/1st layer of drywall/furring strips, before the drywall that will be finished/painted.
I would talk it over with the inspectors, they just want you to get it right.
It appears you took the nails out of the door flange
an removed the drywall.??
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The side view shows where the drywall was and the gap it created.
It also shows the door is not attached.
The drywall would need to be replace and the door re-attached
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