DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2000sq/ft bi-level with a furnace part number: HAC030AKA4, the fan timer is a Honeywell ST9120C 5013... my compliant is while the blower is EXTREMELY quiet, it's at the expense of airflow at the vents (yes the filter is new and the squirrel cage has been cleaned), I do *not* believe this is a variable speed blower... any way to increase the rpm of the fan or is it possible it's been configured in "quiet" mode?

here's a pic of the controller/blower:



thanks!
 

· GC/Master Plumber/Mech
Joined
·
1,517 Posts
This is not a Var speed

Is this on a Comfortmaker or Heil?

I can't read the markings on the board but in the pic where the Red and Black wires are what are the markings.

It appears that the black is connected to the cool tap and black is high speed.

Keep in mind that just changing blower speeds can cause issues. Part of initial set-up in a furnace-A/C is setting blower speed. If you are having issues with cooling the first checks would be system charge and then duct sizing you may have oversized/undersized duct for you set-up
 

· Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is not a Var speed

Is this on a Comfortmaker or Heil?

I can't read the markings on the board but in the pic where the Red and Black wires are what are the markings.

It appears that the black is connected to the cool tap and black is high speed.

Keep in mind that just changing blower speeds can cause issues. Part of initial set-up in a furnace-A/C is setting blower speed. If you are having issues with cooling the first checks would be system charge and then duct sizing you may have oversized/undersized duct for you set-up
it's a heil unit, under "blower" BLUE is on COOL, ORANGE is on HEAT and nothing is connected to the CONT terminal.

along the top the first black is "DI" then the next one is RED marked "UNUSED" then the BLACK one on the next terminal labeled "MOTOR", the white wire off the blower goes to "NEUTRAL #1"

so as it stands from as blower colors it's connected as:

RED: UNUSED
BLUE: COOL
ORANGE: HEAT
WHITE: NEUTRAL #1
BLACK: MOTOR
 

· HVAC / Plumbing
Joined
·
1,801 Posts
black should be high speed fan ... Usually/ (sometimes) used on cooling. Blue would be med. or med. high..Red would be low speed usually/ (sometimes) used on heat.. All depends on your set up for air flow requirments
 

· Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
why is black on "MOTOR" though? or does that whole block mean "UNUSED MOTOR"?, should orange stay on heat? any reason to NOT increase from blue to BLACK?

EDIT: both of those leads are UNUSED MOTOR LEADS, so currently BLACK (high) and RED (low) are not being used, so put black on cool and leave ORANGE on heat? (what speed is orange anyway?)

EDIT2: i connected black/HIGH to COOL and now i got some major airflow!!! the air's always been cold but on "medium" when it was 96F outside there just wasn't enough airflow to get the house cool without the unit running CONTINOUSLY, what BAD reason would there be to set it back to medium (other than this is quite a bit louder)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
well I ran it an hour with a ambient temp starting at 75 and dropping to 71, windows have been open for 48hrs and it was a mildly humid 76 in the house (via the thermostat) and now after one hour on high it's reached a bone chilling 69... i'd say that's more than acceptable?

Probably should put the MEDIUM lead on the HEAT pin because I also thought the airflow in winter was too low too but not sure why (was on medium-low/orange)

it's not really that noisy either, baffles me why someone did this *shrug*

EDIT: well it's working well HIGH on AC and MEDIUM on HEAT (tried both), filter is clean, condenser I cleaned the other day (disassembled unit), had to replace draft induction fan when I first moved in earlier this year (this is my first home, the terror when i heard the bearings in that thing!) but the house and equipment is ~7yrs old, am I missing anything to gain peak performance/efficiency? Does the furnace need a AFR adjustment/tuneup or the A/C unit need a refrigerant test with differential gauges? I hate to dump the money if it's something you can determine yourself THEN call someone when you KNOW there's a problem!!!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the correction.:thumbup:.. I was looking at several diagrams that I had out & guess I refered to the wrong 1.. 1 diagram I was looking at was listing yellow as med. high yellow & med. low orange,,

I believe it goes:

BLACK-HIGH
BLUE-MEDIUM HIGH
ORANGE-MEDIUM LOW
RED-LOW

correct me if i'm wrong?

I set BLACK on COOL and BLUE on HEAT both functions seem to work well now, however I haven't (and maybe I shouldn't) adjust the delay settings?
 

· GC/Master Plumber/Mech
Joined
·
1,517 Posts
Put the orange back on the heat. It was most likely set up this way. You need to check the Delta T for the heat. You really need to understand the effects of slowing the motor down on the heat seting.

Slowing motor speed increases Delta T
Increasing motor speed decreases Delta T

Also if the furnace was set up for the Orange wire speed and you slow the motor down you can cause the furnace to overheat, shorten life span of heat exchanger and on a very bad day melt the heat exchanger.

Changing the speed for a/c is more forgivable heck it will just freeze.

Becarefull in what you do with heating as far as blower speed and delay settings until you have a better understanding

I am not trying to be an a$$ just want ya to be around to post tomorrow.


RED GREEN--We are all in this together...
 

· Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
O.K., I put the heat back on orange... tonight I ran the AC and noticed a 12 degree difference between sticking a KNOWN VERY ACCURATE meat thermometer in the SUPPLY and RETURN vents near each other (no good way to do this directly at the air handler), ambient temp outside was 80 and system had been on for 15 minutes, is this ok?

I can remove the metal duct tape that holds the evap coil cover just above the upper frame of the furnace to clean if i need to, would pulling that cover off give me enough access to clean the coil? not sure what one looks like?

I'm starting to question if I increased airflow to compensate for a low refridgerant / dirty coil situation
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top