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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy. This house is a standard house in a subdivision in michigan, built in 2002. In the master bath there's a large 60X42 alcove whirlpool tub, with ceramic tile going a foot or two up the wall, but there's no shower.

To add a shower, it seems that the biggest effort will be the walls. They appear to be drywall. So I need to remove them and replace with cement board, tape seams, waterproof with something like redguard, and tile. I'd really, really like to avoid having to do any drywall finishing (my weakness), so I was planning on cutting out the drywall just where I need to. Up about 7 feet or so to where the tile ends, but not all the way to to the ceiling which would require taping and mudding the ceiling joints. Same with the vertical joints where the new cement board would meet the existing drywall, i'll put that seam just under where the edge of the tile sits. Is this stupid?

I know about some of the details, like making sure that the cement board overlaps the flange of the tub, but leave a 1/4 inch gap at the tub which is not caulked, caulk the corner joints of the tile, etc. I've done quite a few tile jobs before.

While the walls are off, myself or a real plumber can re-plumb it for a shower with a diverter for the tub spout.

Any general advice, potential gotchas, or suggestions?
 

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Hello there. Your plan sounds really rational. I hope you won't break your neck to realize it. Anyway, pay your attention to waterproofing walls or floor (if we are talking about shower without a curb or without tub). Btw,use liquid rubber, coz it's the best waterproofing material. http://liquidrubber.ca/ check this one. Any kind of walls is better to waterproof with it. In any case, the concrete surface should be free of dirt or debris.
 

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To avoid having to repair any drywall what i have always done on showers is dont cut the drywall all the way to the edges and leave about an inch or two so that when the bullnose(or last tile) goes on it overlaps onto the drywall by said amount. since this is usually above the shower head and outside the shower glass/curtain water damage isnt really a concern unless you like to splash around a lot :). I would then finish the tile edge by caulking then painting. o ya and make sure that where the durarock and drywall butt into each other they are flush...ish
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
how flat is the bottom of your jetted tub. sometimes they have quite some curve to them and they really suck to stand up in. Could make it unsafe if its to curved.
It's actually reasonably convenient to step into, and to stand in. I'd actually prefer in many ways to tear it out and put in a dedicated shower stall, but it complicates the whole project quite a bit, and I think there's some utility to the tub too. Thanks for bringing this up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
please provide us a picture....seems to me that tub has alot of surface area around the top to collect alot more water than a standard tub..which may or may not be a good idea...imo
It looks like it should drain properly. Tonight I'll pour some water onto the edges and corners and watch how well they drain. Very good point, exactly the kind the thing I am worried about.
 

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ripping out the drywall and installing rock board and tile is still going to leave you with a grout or caulk seam around the tub which may hold alot of water which in turn may break down that seam faster and look ugly and turn black.....we are here not to make mountians out of mole hills.. normal tubs with shower walls ...DON'T have that much tub surface to collect water while showering.......Iam not going to tell you not to do it ...but I have seen showers added to soaking tubs like yours....some were not happy after the finish job 6 months down the road..
 

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My first thought was for you to reconsider adding a shower head to this tub, it's not designed for a shower. It can work, but there's not enough room at the back and could be dangerous for some users. Also remember that the shower curtain inner liner would have to be on the inside of the tub further creating a smaller space. The remaining two corners will collect way too much water, and if level (as it should be), or if the tub is pitched slightly the wrong way, water will run to the floor.

I don't think it's gonna work so good.

Jaz
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Why have to cut any drywall...?
They have three piece shower kits.
Corner kits etc..

They have kits to meet every single need and if it looks like a no go, look again.

Forgot.... I would be more worried about the ventilation.?
I've had a lot of trouble finding a surround kit for a 60x42 alcove. I think I found one, but it's $900. I could tile it for $100.

Ventilation is no prob, there's a good bathroom fan already installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
My first thought was for you to reconsider adding a shower head to this tub, it's not designed for a shower. It can work, but there's not enough room at the back and could be dangerous for some users. Also remember that the shower curtain inner liner would have to be on the inside of the tub further creating a smaller space. The remaining two corners will collect way too much water, and if level (as it should be), or if the tub is pitched slightly the wrong way, water will run to the floor.

I don't think it's gonna work so good.

Jaz
I was thinking of doing a shower door to address the curtain issue you raised.

I poured water in the corners and it appeared to drain pretty darn well.

I definitely appreciate your advice.

Theoretically I could pull the whole jacuzzi and install a base and surround. More effort and a lot more expensive. I'd rather have that, but with our newborn, $$$ is the main issue atm.

I got a quote from a respectable local company, and they said they'd tile the walls etc, much like my plan. They didn't raise any serious concerns, but I know that doesn't necessarily say that there aren't any.
 
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