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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1/2" piece of plywood that is used as a step for people to get in and out of a small boat. Currently it is bare wood. I want to coat it with rustoleum marine spar varnish and add sand to it for grip. Will this work? I found an article saying how to add sand to paint but though marine spar varnish may be a different animal.
 

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yes - this is done all the time.
the same procedures as with paint non-skid additive.
two coats of 50/50 varnish & 100% mineral spirits (paint thinner).
one unthinned coat of varnish - sprinkle the non-skid grit.
wait 24 hours - then another coat of varnish.
repeat as necessary due to wear and tear.
adhere closely to the directions on the can for drying times.
put a couple of coats on the back side and all edges as well.
and while you are in the project, you could add sand to the
backside as well - it won't hurt anything.

question - what will keep the plywood from slipping if pressure
is applied in an awkward position ? if not secured, could it slip
out from under a person's footing like a skim board ???

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IMO adding sand isn't a good solution. The sand will adhere to the coating but in high traffic areas [where you need it] it will wear off. I'd add those glue on anti skid strips instead.
 

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I’d talk to someone at a marine store about non-skid coatings. I wanted a nonslip coating for the bow deck (Painted wood) of my Chris-Craft that I owned during the 90s.
They recommended a rubberized non skid deck paint.

It was an excellent product. Non skid wet or dry, shoes or bare foot.

It was still looking good when I sold that boat 11 years later. That was helped by a covered berth that kept it out of the sun when not in use.

There may be something even better since it’s about 30 years since I bought it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yes - this is done all the time.
the same procedures as with paint non-skid additive.
two coats of 50/50 varnish & 100% mineral spirits (paint thinner).
one unthinned coat of varnish - sprinkle the non-skid grit.
wait 24 hours - then another coat of varnish.
repeat as necessary due to wear and tear.
adhere closely to the directions on the can for drying times.
put a couple of coats on the back side and all edges as well.
and while you are in the project, you could add sand to the
backside as well - it won't hurt anything.

question - what will keep the plywood from slipping if pressure
is applied in an awkward position ? if not secured, could it slip
out from under a person's footing like a skim board ???

.
That's good to know. I am looking at this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/QUIKRETE-5...r_b3-G5gDn0StpecK-xoC6RMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds as an additive. Yes, the deck is secure. Believe me, I double and triple checked it's stability haha. I planned on coating the entire platform top and bottom because it will be around the water a lot. I'm hoping that it will hold up at least for a few years before I have to re-coat it. I will be loading people and my dogs occasionally so I planned on it not staying pristine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
IMO adding sand isn't a good solution. The sand will adhere to the coating but in high traffic areas [where you need it] it will wear off. I'd add those glue on anti skid strips instead.
That's one of my main concerns. I'm ok with having to re-coat it but don't want to have to do it a couple times a year. Do you have a link to the strips you are talking about?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’d talk to someone at a marine store about non-skid coatings. I wanted a nonslip coating for the bow deck (Painted wood) of my Chris-Craft that I owned during the 90s.
They recommended a rubberized non skid deck paint.

It was an excellent product. Non skid wet or dry, shoes or bare foot.

It was still looking good when I sold that boat 11 years later. That was helped by a covered berth that kept it out of the sun when not in use.

There may be something even better since it’s about 30 years since I bought it.
That's the result I would love to have. I originally was planning to paint the deck with a coating like you mentioned or good quality paint with sand mixed in but the wood grain looks great and I'd really like to preserve that look, hence the varnish.
 

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I use that same play sand in the sandbox of my quail cage.
there are some larger grains in it. so if you are going to use that,
sift it through a strainer, window screen, or something to get the
big pieces out.

a photo of your project would be nice to see - and we would all be
on the same page as far as suggestions go.

speaking of small boats, I am repainting my 14ft 1959 Crestliner
this week. it gets a refresher coat every 4 years or so.
and I added the sifted play sand in the floor paint for a non-skid surface.
on one lake, we tie up to a 8'x8' floating swim platform.
we never painted the plywood top and it lasts a few years before needing
to be replaced.
Happy Boating !!
1959 Crestliner.JPG

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I use that same play sand in the sandbox of my quail cage.
there are some larger grains in it. so if you are going to use that,
sift it through a strainer, window screen, or something to get the
big pieces out.

a photo of your project would be nice to see - and we would all be
on the same page as far as suggestions go.

speaking of small boats, I am repainting my 14ft 1959 Crestliner
this week. it gets a refresher coat every 4 years or so.
and I added the sifted play sand in the floor paint for a non-skid surface.
on one lake, we tie up to a 8'x8' floating swim platform.
we never painted the plywood top and it lasts a few years before needing
to be replaced.
Happy Boating !!
View attachment 587889

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That's good to know about the play sand. I was thinking it was already well sifted. I will post a picture of the surface I first mentioned. Cool classic boat you have. Those two colors go well together. :thumbsup: I bet that thing gets up and goes with what looks like a 30hp? motor.
 

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ohhhhh I got you now !!
drop over to www.tinboats.net for all kinds of tips on how
and what you can do with an aluminum boat. I have written several articles
there on transom, deck, seat and bow replacement, builds, painting, etc.
as well as preparing, priming and painting the whole boat.
Tin Boats are great fun!
I see an oar in your boat, so I am guessing it is not powered ?
tell us a little more about it and what kind of fishing/boating you do.

my boat shown is a 1959 Crestliner with a 1959 Johnson 35hp. (the motor in the
photo is a modern 25hp while the vintage motors are being refurbished).
the boat is upside down at the moment in my carport getting a new paint job.
it will go from red and white to the vintage seafoam green and light tan.
with me being 72yrs old in a couple of months, this will be the last paint job!
also, it will be getting new slat seats made of cypress with several coats of
Epifanes marine spar varnish. the seats will match the cypress dashboard.
Dash.JPG

I do not use the wal-mart type bathtub nonskid strips as they were not
used in the original model in 1959. it was just plain grit sprinkled into the paint.
(which I have done several times over the 61 years I have had it).
the "suggested" grit additive is available in the Box Stores just about everywhere.

Happy Boating !!

John

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ohhhhh I got you now !!
drop over to www.tinboats.net for all kinds of tips on how
and what you can do with an aluminum boat. I have written several articles
there on transom, deck, seat and bow replacement, builds, painting, etc.
as well as preparing, priming and painting the whole boat.
Tin Boats are great fun!
I see an oar in your boat, so I am guessing it is not powered ?
tell us a little more about it and what kind of fishing/boating you do.

my boat shown is a 1959 Crestliner with a 1959 Johnson 35hp. (the motor in the
photo is a modern 25hp while the vintage motors are being refurbished).
the boat is upside down at the moment in my carport getting a new paint job.
it will go from red and white to the vintage seafoam green and light tan.
with me being 72yrs old in a couple of months, this will be the last paint job!
also, it will be getting new slat seats made of cypress with several coats of
Epifanes marine spar varnish. the seats will match the cypress dashboard.
View attachment 588019

I do not use the wal-mart type bathtub nonskid strips as they were not
used in the original model in 1959. it was just plain grit sprinkled into the paint.
(which I have done several times over the 61 years I have had it).
the "suggested" grit additive is available in the Box Stores just about everywhere.

Happy Boating !!

John

.
Tinboats is a great site. I have seen many well built boats that have inspired me with my own. It's really cool to see people keeping the tin boat hobby alive. I should look up your posts over there. I'm always eager to learn things. My boat is a 12 ft starcraft aluminum boat that I setup for fishing my local lakes. Nothing over the top or fancy but something I enjoy and am proud of building. Those oars are my last resort backup haha. The boat has an electric trolling motor as well as a gas outboard I made from a 68 Evinrude lower unit and a 6.5hp Briggs and Stratton power head from a pressure washer. I have attached a few photos of it below. I mostly fish for Rainbow Trout, Cutthroat Trout, Bass, Perch and whatever else will bite haha. I love those classic colors. It looks good in the photo you first posted but will look more fitted to it's era with the seafoam green and light tan. The cypress wood looks nice. I have a feeling it will tie the green and tan together well. You should post a picture of it when finished.
 

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a gas outboard I made from a 68 Evinrude lower unit and a
6.5hp Briggs and Stratton power head from a pressure washer - - - -
WOW - that is a first for me !!! DIY at its finest !

my name on TinBoats is just plain "Johnny" - (the paint guru).
I haven't been too active there since I almost killed myself with a table saw accident.
and it really messed up my balance (vertigo) so I am out of boats - probably forever.
I am just piddling on this boat now to get it ready to pass down to the grandkids
and give me something to do. it is a '59 package complete with a '59 Gator trailer.
the Rainbow is my favorite fish. I lived in WV for 3 years and that was my first
experience with trout (we don't have them in my area).
my PB for the Rainbow is 6lbs - excellent table fare.
thanks for sharing your projects !!!

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
WOW - that is a first for me !!! DIY at its finest !

my name on TinBoats is just plain "Johnny" - (the paint guru).
I haven't been too active there since I almost killed myself with a table saw accident.
and it really messed up my balance (vertigo) so I am out of boats - probably forever.
I am just piddling on this boat now to get it ready to pass down to the grandkids
and give me something to do. it is a '59 package complete with a '59 Gator trailer.
the Rainbow is my favorite fish. I lived in WV for 3 years and that was my first
experience with trout (we don't have them in my area).
my PB for the Rainbow is 6lbs - excellent table fare.
thanks for sharing your projects !!!

John
Thanks for the kind works :) Come to think of it, I'm pretty sure I've seen a few of your posts over there. Your username looks familiar. That is so cool that you have preserved a classic boat, and with it's original trailer none the less! That sucks but at least you can pass the joy of boating to your grand kids. They are a fun fish to catch, no doubt about it. A 6 lb Rainbow is impressive! Well done. :thumbsup:
 
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