[bluefitness]

I want to add a receptacle in my garage for a dedicated circuit for a refrigerator. It will be a single outlet, and the refrigerator will block access to it. The wall is block construction with sheet rock. Is there a way to fish it in the wall in order to have it recessed? My only alternative would be to run emt conduit from the ceiling and mount a handy box or square box to the wall.

 

[wirenut1110]

How much space, if any, do you have between the sheetrock and the wall?

 

[J. V.]

I have a block house with drywall too. If you have access from above or from below you can do it fairly easy. If you do not have access, you may have to resort to something like WireMould or exposed conduit.
Let us know about access.

 

[220/221]

The problem with block is the bond beam. If your house was built after the late 70's, the top course will be poured/filled solid. Also, vertical chases next to doors/windows and one chase every 8' or so will be solid.

It's a garage so I would just drop the romex down from the ceiling, sleeve it with EMT and surface mount a recep.

 

[bluefitness]

I'm not sure how much space is behind the drywall, but I do know it is furred out. The house was built in the early 90's. I would prefer a cleaner look, but I guess the refrig will be covering it. Therefore, it shouldn't matter all that much. If there is an option to run it in the block or down the furred space, I wouldn't mind hearing about them.

I want to do everything by current code. Here is what I plan on doing:

-running a dedicated circuit for the refrig.
-20 amp breaker
-12/2 romex wire run to the outlet.
-sleeve the romex down the conduit
-single receptable


Does this sound about right? Also, what size conduit for 12/2 romex wire?

Thanks for all the help. I appreciate it.

 

[220/221]

1/2" conduit.

It doesn't need to be a single recep.

I always use a 4s box with an industrial cover but a handy box and standard cover will work.

If it's furred out 3/4" and you have access, you could concievably drill the top piece of horizontal furring and fish the cable in betwen the block and the drywall (not legally but not a terrible 1 1/4" violation). You would also need to beat out a hole in the block to accept the back of the box (which can prove difficult because you need to see where the chases are) or use an illegal (but not a terrible violation) shallow (1 1/4" deep) 1 gang plastic box.

 

[loyal]

Is the top layer of block filled with concrete?
If not, you could fish a romex or better yet, some 1/2" flexible metal conduit
down through the block to where you want the outlet.
First you'll need to find a clear cavity from the top block all the way down
to where you want the outlet. Use a 3ft level and mark the wall, or use
a piece of string with a bolt or something tied to the end for a weight.
to make a make shift plumb bob. Drill a 1/2 inch hole with a masonry
bit in the center of the spot that you want your outlet to be.
Now lower the string with the bolt on it down the cavity inside the block wall
to where the drilled hole is. if it travels down freely, with no snags,
then you could fish an electrical feed down there. First you would need to
cut the hole for the electrical box. Use the box as a template and mark the
drywall. Cut through the drywall first. Then cut the block also to the size of the electrical box. I would use a 1/4in. masonry bit to score the outline of
the box on the block. Then finish the cutout with a hammer and cold chisel.
Now using the same string with a weight on it, lower it down into the block
cavity from the top of the wall down to where your box cutout is. You should be able to hook the string and pull it out of the cutout. You are now able to fish your cable or flexible conduit down to the box by tying the string to it
and pulling it down to the hole that you cut for the box.

Sounds much easier to surface mount it, just as you said.
But it could be done.

 

[J. V.]

Is the top layer of block filled with concrete?
If not, you could fish a romex or better yet, some 1/2" flexible metal conduit
down through the block to where you want the outlet.
First you'll need to find a clear cavity from the top block all the way down
to where you want the outlet. Use a 3ft level and mark the wall, or use
a piece of string with a bolt or something tied to the end for a weight.
to make a make shift plumb bob. Drill a 1/2 inch hole with a masonry
bit in the center of the spot that you want your outlet to be.
Now lower the string with the bolt on it down the cavity inside the block wall
to where the drilled hole is. if it travels down freely, with no snags,
then you could fish an electrical feed down there. First you would need to
cut the hole for the electrical box. Use the box as a template and mark the
drywall. Cut through the drywall first. Then cut the block also to the size of the electrical box. I would use a 1/4in. masonry bit to score the outline of
the box on the block. Then finish the cutout with a hammer and cold chisel.
Now using the same string with a weight on it, lower it down into the block
cavity from the top of the wall down to where your box cutout is. You should be able to hook the string and pull it out of the cutout. You are now able to fish your cable or flexible conduit down to the box by tying the string to it
and pulling it down to the hole that you cut for the box.

Sounds much easier to surface mount it, just as you said.
But it could be done.

That how I do it in my house. I like to put some mud (mortar mix) in the hole before I install the box. This makes for a very strong mount. Make sure you install the cable and connector on the box first. If you don't, the mud may interfere with your fishing technique. :thumbsup:

 

[busman]

1/2" conduit.

It doesn't need to be a single recep.

I always use a 4s box with an industrial cover but a handy box and standard cover will work.

If it's furred out 3/4" and you have access, you could concievably drill the top piece of horizontal furring and fish the cable in betwen the block and the drywall (not legally but not a terrible 1 1/4" violation). You would also need to beat out a hole in the block to accept the back of the box (which can prove difficult because you need to see where the chases are) or use an illegal (but not a terrible violation) shallow (1 1/4" deep) 1 gang plastic box.

The 1-1/4" requirement doesn't apply to cables fished between access points in finished buildings. I'd used steel jacketed MC cable fished behind the drywall midway between the furring strips.

Mark