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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello and thanks.

As mentioned in title, we just pulled permits to add a deck to the side of our house that will wrap around to existing deck out the back.

I have read there are 2 ways to attach the ledger (2x8x32) to the house and very strong opinions about them.

Option 1 - cut out stucco,m flash and attach new ledger wood to wood to existing floor/rim joist (2x10)

Option 2 - attach ledger over outside of stucco

The Struct Engineer is fine with either

My question is regarding option B..

Why do people keep saying this is bad due to stucco not being a structural element when the new ledger is still being lagged into the existing rim joist (just stucco in between)?

Due to existing work, I have no real option of making this a free standing deck ..
 

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retired framer
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Hello and thanks.

As mentioned in title, we just pulled permits to add a deck to the side of our house that will wrap around to existing deck out the back.

I have read there are 2 ways to attach the ledger (2x8x32) to the house and very strong opinions about them.

Option 1 - cut out stucco,m flash and attach new ledger wood to wood to existing floor/rim joist (2x10)

Option 2 - attach ledger over outside of stucco

The Struct Engineer is fine with either

My question is regarding option B..

Why do people keep saying this is bad due to stucco not being a structural element when the new ledger is still being lagged into the existing rim joist (just stucco in between)?

Due to existing work, I have no real option of making this a free standing deck ..
Stucco is not tight to the wall, it has a drain plane behind it because water does go thru it. So a properly tight ledger likely causes cracks in the stucco and stops water from moving down the plane
 

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Depending on what type Stucco you have & what year it was installed ?
If it is conventional Stucco installed before 1994 it would most likely work out ok. If the Stucco is Synthetic Stucco it will not work very well due to the backup of the Synthetic System. Also if conventional Stucco & you cut the existing Stucco out you mostly will cause a waterproofing problem. If you leave the existing Stucco you could look at using spacers at attachment points.
Check out the MAINE DECK BRACKET if you select this type only cut the Stucco & Lath do NOT damage the water barrier behind the Stucco
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for the replies and that is the problem.
There seems to be negatives with both ways of doing this.

For the record, the home was stripped to studs in 2016 and finished with a traditional 3 coat stucco system with the finished product being Santa Barbara Smooth...no foam or anything like that added..

So we have:
Framing - Plywood - 2 layers of water proofing 60 minute paper - lath - scratch - brown - final color

All this was permitted and inspected ..

There also happens to be a U channel (for crack control) right above where the rim joist of the house is which might make taking out stucco easier if needed?
 

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With that info I would go with using spacers to just keep the ledger off the Stucco surface to allow water drainage. Make sure to use a good caulking in the spacer center & around the spacers this would eliminate any pressure being applied to the Stucco surface & eliminate any flashing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Is the spacer thing a common practice and does it reduce any strength?

There will be stairs on this deck going to a rooftop deck as well.

Thank you.
 

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retired framer
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Is the spacer thing a common practice and does it reduce any strength?

There will be stairs on this deck going to a rooftop deck as well.

Thank you.
All good question for an engineer.
I would have put the sealer in the hole first so when the cut was screwed in the drain plane would be plugged all around it.


You could like use a 2 or 3" pipe cap.
 

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Spacers are a commend thing when dealing with Stucco.
In the area that the ledger will be applied use two blocks say 1/2 inch thick pull a string line from the starting point of the ledger and measure to get the high spot in the Stucco plane than have the steel spacers cut to the depth ( thickness) of the Stucco plus say 1/8 inch this will allow the ledger to clear the Stucco surface. When installing the sleeves apply a top grade caulking in the spacer hole than place sleeve in , when installing the ledger bolt put caulking in the inside hole of the sleeve.

The Engineer can design a bolt pattern for the calculated load.
The above is a standard procedure for applying external loads to a Stucco substrate with out putting pressure on the Stucco.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I spoke to the people at Deck2Wall today.

https://www.deck2wallspacer.com/

This maybe the solution and based on the specs he had some positive feedback for the application.

They also seem to be a popular choice and are stocked at the box stores.

The deck itself is only 7 feet wide with a glulam beam at 5 feet from the house, the other 2 feet is overhang so the load calcs on the ledger is basically a 5 foot wide deck.

Sent it over to SE today with calc sheets from company.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
floor system is 2x10 doubled on the rim with plywood sheathing over the top. No engineered joists.

Plans call for 2x bolts at 12" on center for the ledger
 

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retired framer
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floor system is 2x10 doubled on the rim with plywood sheathing over the top. No engineered joists.

Plans call for 2x bolts at 12" on center for the ledger
Yup, that will stay there. Sound like about a 5" lag.


Double rim, you don't see that very often.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just an update for anyone interested:

went back to structural engineer and he approved a plan of ledger over stucco using 5/8"x6" lags staggered at 16 on center with an option to add 1/2 inch spacers

we are going that route as its the least invasive.
 
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