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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'd like to beef up the existing roof trusses in my roof and have a very general & simple question on how to do this.

Is it OK to take a 2x6 (the same size board as the trusses) and nail(screw) to the side of the truss and side of the ceiling joist?

Kind of like this:

| || | 2x6 truss
| | brace (2x6)
| | brace
| | brace
| | brace
| || | 2x12 joist

Thanks for guidance..
 

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Picture would help.

Trusses or rafter and ceiling joist?

To what end, why?

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Apologies if I'm using the wrong terms.

What I'm going for is two fold. One. Add additional vertical supports along the middle and two sides.

Two. Add more bracing to secure the roof from high winds as from a tornado. There isn't much to hold it down other than a few sloppily toenailed joints.

Here is the attic & roof area.


Note that the vertical supports are spaced too far apart (according to the inspector for some additional work I've been doing --- this build "passed" inspection last year, different inspector).


The lighter colored 2x6's were added in the past couple weeks (done every other joist, with 5 screws per the inspector's suggestion).

Here's one of the side vertical supports:



Here is the base of one of the center vertical supports:


And the top:


Not much to hold the roof down to the ceiling joists.


I've added hurricane straps, brackets and extra bracing along the edge of the roof.



I need to add additional supports to give the roof downward strength - that's underway.

What I am wondering is if I can also add more braces to the side of the 2x6 truss (what the OSB nails to) and the side of the 2x12 ceiling joists. With enough of these it would help strengthen the roof from wind forces that would lift it off the building.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Does anyone here know the codes on adding bracing in a roof? I have a couple workers coming by later this morning, but I still don't know how to direct them.

As in my original post, my question is whether it is OK to nail/screw a 2x6 (same size board as the roof trusses) to the side of the truss down to the side of a ceiling joist. This would augment existing bracing, not replace it.

Wood & screws aren't cheap so I don't want to spend a lot then have to tear it all out.
 

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You can brace the gable end as if it were a truss, pp.9, 10; http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...TqnB0t&sig=AHIEtbSVbmDLGaqEJoDnOI5rmXQVBl6Wfw

The idea is to tie the rafter to the wall below, pp.8; http://www.apexhomeinspections.biz/articles/framing%20guidelines.pdf

Add a collar tie on each rafter to keep the ridge together, pp 4; http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...VLaYf-&sig=AHIEtbQ8WkEnjQBvfF5cXmZ9R0GxcRV0mA

Add blocking from gables to third joist out and sheath or use 1x’s every two feet on top of ceiling joists, pp. 17-#3.6 and pp.29- #5.6 here; http://www.awc.org/pdf/WFCM_90-B-Guide.pdf Roof code is on pp. #27.

Some of the above is beyond code for your area if the inspector passed it already. I see a joist hanger with missing nails and bent nails which should be replaced. If really worried, strap the rafters directly to the studs below with flat coil strap. High winds lift a roof by gaining access at the soffits or gable ends. http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...BeL4ck&sig=AHIEtbTVNBEhp-97Is0gpMSCkcEy7O-Siw

http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...jMHAko&sig=AHIEtbSjRpZ1yQsGHrBzYb2JfeNYdpcmPw

I noticed your ridge vent, never mind the last link. I would add support under the purlins to carry them better. Add gable bracing and floor bracing. Add collar ties on every one, keeping the ridge framing together. The center ridge supports are not required per code, though they may help keep the roof from flexing in a wind. Add strapping to the studs from the rafters every 4’, just guessing without a structural engineer, maybe one of our resident ones will respond………

Gary
 
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