[WEGL08]

Hi everyone - I appreciate your time/opinion on this:

I'm lucky enough to have a 200 amp electrical panel with a lot of open spots for new circuits/circuit breakers. I have an unfinished area in the basement that I'm wanting to make into my shop and it currently doesn't have any outlets. I wanted to run a couple 20 amp circuits in there for my power tools. I was going to simply buy the same exact type of circuit breakers currently in the box (the rest of the project I know how to do).

The house was built in 2000 and hte circuit breakers currently in the box are "Challenger" brand which are no longer made. I've been trying to figure out what type of circuit breaker I could safely put into one of the open slots on my electrical panel. Any expertise/help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[Nealtw]

I found this on Home depot site.

The Eaton Cutler-Hammer 20 Amp 1 in. Single-Pole Type BR Replacement Circuit Breaker is designed to protect house wires from overheating or causing a short-circuit. Single pole breaker applications include use with dishwashers, waste disposals, refrigerators, freezers, washing machines, televisions and window air conditioners. The UL-listed breaker is compatible with Westinghouse, Challenger and Bryant load centers and has a maximum load of 240-Volt.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-BR-20-Amp-Single-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-BR120/100170174


You may need arc fault in the garage
​

 

[surferdude2]

Challenger breakers are still available. I wouldn't use anything that wasn't approved for the panel. They may be old stock or refurbs, but they are approved and that counts in some insurance situations (and inspectors) and just for peace of mind.

You'll need GFCI or AFCI receptacles in the garage if you want to keep it code compliant.

https://www.google.com/search?q=cha...1.69i57j0l7.8112j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

[surferdude2]

BTW, You should keep close check on that panel for any indication of some breaker overheating or any characteristic smell of heated plastic/bakelite. That particular make is one of the three panels that have caused enough home fires to put them out of business.

If you plan on keeping it in service, it might pay to have an experienced electrician check it out and advise you further.

SD2

Hall of Shame Panels:
1. Challenger
2. Federal Pacific
3. Zinsco

 

[WEGL08]

Yea I was reading about some of those issues when I was looking for circuit breakers :/ I saw that the panel has "eaton" on it. I thought they were fine for a bit after eaton bought them and most of their issues were 80s/early90s runs. Maybe I'm wrong - we moved into this place in JUL and haven't had any issues thus far. Even had a breaker pop when guys were working on the roof and plugged in too many items - so that's a good sign..

Maybe I'm wrong

 

[Fishbulb28]

Nealtw is correct, Eaton type BR is the current replacement type for your panel.

AFCI is not required in a basement workshop. Nor in a garage, for that matter. GFCI is required in both.

 

[Fishbulb28]

That particular make is one of the three panels that have caused enough home fires to put them out of business.

The problematic Challenger panels were the rebadged Stab-Lok units. This panel is not one of those.

 

[WEGL08]

The problematic Challenger panels were the rebadged Stab-Lok units. This panel is not one of those.

Ah thank you makes me feel better. And thanks for the confirmation on what I can put into the panel!

 

[WEGL08]

Thanks again for all the comments/knowledge. Final few questions I have - I can't seem to find this information anywhere on the internet.

Most electrical panels will let you know how many total circuits they can hold by the model number. Of course that doesn't seem to be the case for mine. Any idea how I can determine how many total circuits I can have on this panel before I started adding too much stuff? I'm just concerned bc the builder used a lot of tandem breakers and I don't want to overload it. (also - how do I know if tandems are even allowed in this box? Doesn't say on the panel info sheet. Now I'm wondering if I should pull a couple of those tandems and make sure they didn't break the plastic housing and force them into a nontandem approved slot.

 

[Oso954]

I think you will find that's a 30/40 panel.

It appears that the builders electrician may have used the 10 legal tandem slots, leaving non-tandem slots open.

So, you should have room for 10 additional circuits, if they are all single pole breakers.

 

[WEGL08]

I think you will find that's a 30/40 panel.

It appears that the builders electrician may have used the 10 legal tandem slots, leaving non-tandem slots open.

So, you should have room for 10 additional circuits, if they are all single pole breakers.

Thank you! I'm hoping that's the case. Just weird that 30/40 isn't on the label anywhere to give you any type of idea what it's capable of having.

 

[joed]

I would disagree that that panel can accept tandems. The breaker picture on the left of the image only shows full size breakers. They might fit but they are are not listed for use.

 

[Oso954]

Just weird that 30/40 isn't on the label anywhere to give you any type of idea what it's capable of having.

It's not weird, you just aren't used to it. Last century there were a lot of panels made that didn't include that info in the model or catalog number.

The un-notched bus stabs are your non-tandem slots. The notched stabs are your tandem slots. Either pull a tandem and look at the stabs, or there is a pic of them on the far right of the label (when viewed in correct orientation).

There are a lot of people that think color coded romex has been around forever. But it also dates back to about 20 years ago. Since your house was built about that time, don't assume that white romex means 14 gauge. It could also be #12 or even #10. You may have to measure or gauge it to be sure.