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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last fall I remodeled my detached garage. Insulated the heck out of it and I installed a new Goodman 45KBTU (maybe it was 48?? dont remember) for heat. It is a 95% efficient unit that was set up for NG when purchased, but I converted it to run on propane. Heat has worked flawless and I did not install AC at the time figuring I will add it after the cold weather...

Question is... is AC just as easy to install for a DIY'er like myself? I will be stopping by the supply house this week to pick up what I need, but wanted to ask on here for any tips/tricks I need to know. All I "believe" I will need is an a-coil and a condenser, along with power, which I have plenty.
Someone (just a home owner, no a pro) said to me after saying I was going to install AC to the system.. "you are going to have to sweat copper"... ok... if that is going to be the biggest hurdle, then I should be good to go, unless there is something more to sweating copper lines then there is with standard water plumbing... Again, just wanted to check.

I am sure I will have to call someone to charge the system, correct? or can this be done myself as well?

Thanks in advance for the help!
 

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Tips/tricks

Need special copper ACR.

Need ACR fittings.

Need special high pressure solder, regular solder can't handle HVAC pressure.

Need special tools, gauges, vacuum pump, meters, soldering equipment,
need to size equipment.

Need HVAC knowledge as to soldering practice, wiring, evacuating, charging, need to be certified to buy refrigerant.

Try to hook up with a buddy or friend that has HVAC knowledge or you will be wasting your time and money plus you can get killed or injured from high pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
alright... dont want to get killed... So this is definitely something I should have someone do either for or with me?

I am right outside (15 minutes) from Philly over WW bridge if your interested in the job. :wink: Only guy I know who is in the field... I dont think I would trust
 

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Not interested

alright... don't want to get killed... So this is definitely something I should have someone do either for or with me?

I am right outside (15 minutes) from Philly over WW bridge if your interested in the job. :wink: Only guy I know who is in the field... I don't think I would trust
Thank you but not interested just advice. I'm sure you will find someone you can trust to help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just figured I would update. Did it with the help of a buddy who had some HVAC tools and has done it before. I was going to forget the project, but after the heat outside started rolling in... my garage was just unbearable...
The wife thinks I am nuts... I think I am nice and cool now. :thumbsup:
Still have some finishing touches to finish the project, but she blows like a freezer now.
 

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Your friend should have told you that your furnace installed the way it is, is a code vilolation.
Code requires all sources of ignition to be above the floor 18".

So the blower motor must be a min of 18" above the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks, to bad you are not my friend and could tell me something like this...
kinda like when you told me that installing radiant floor heat was impossible and that many people found it wont work the way I was attempting, then I read a textbook proving you wrong, and you said "oh, yeah... well it will work THAT way"... that was the help I came on this site to find out, not hear someone tell me I flat out couldnt do something. I believe the name of this site has DIY in the url... its not donteventrybeenthereknowsyoucantdoanythingyourselfchatroom.com
 

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Work, and work right are 2 different things.

And I can't help it if your friend doesn't know code.

DIY or not, it should be done right, not half A.

Code is code.
 

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And the method the book talks about.
Is not the way you installed your radiant heat either.
When you were asking about it.

Keep your facts straight.

Don't get angry cause your friend didn't know what the code is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
And the method the book talks about.
Is not the way you installed your radiant heat either.
When you were asking about it.

Keep your facts straight.
Fact was exactly as stated.... I asked How to do something myself and you told me

Lot of people have done that, and found out it doesnt work
After I posted how I found it CAN work (the answer I was hoping to get from any member of a DIY site) you stated
Yes, that method requires adding a circulator, and a few other controls.
By stating this AFTER I found my own answer and posted it as a reference to any other DIY'er in the future were to look around the site for information as I had, they would have found some info. Apparently you already "knew" this, yet, I guess, Held it back from me??? Why because I would have to purchase a few lousy components other than what I had sitting right at my feet...
That is the Fact that I am stating, please explain to me what facts I need to get straight?



Don't get angry cause your friend didn't know what the code is.
My one neighbor and a guy I work with are JackA's, I am not angry about it, I just dont care much for them.




Hey can you post a picture of how it "should" be installed, I just did a quick google search for images and came up with these. My instal looks no different, so all these are not code either? Out of curiosity, my home (i did not instal) my neighbors, and my inlaws are all installed just like mine and these other pics:







 

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I told you it wouldn't work. Refering to the way you had it piped in.
Remember, you couldn't get water to flow through it right.
You were trying to make it work the way you had it piped.

And it stil hasn't been through a winter, to see if you have it right yet.


Look at the first pic. See how its on blocks.
If those blocks, are enough to raise the furnace that the bottom of the blower motor is 18" above the floor. That will pass code.

Thats all thats needed. Is to have the bottom of the blower motor 18" above the floor.

Just because your neighbors or anybody elses isn't installed right.
Doesn't mean its ok to install another one improperly.
 

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Just figured I would update. Did it with the help of a buddy who had some HVAC tools and has done it before. I was going to forget the project, but after the heat outside started rolling in... my garage was just unbearable...
The wife thinks I am nuts... I think I am nice and cool now. :thumbsup:
Still have some finishing touches to finish the project, but she blows like a freezer now.
Which part? the ac or your boy friend?:furious:
Try using the right size pad, and center it if you have the cognitive ability to do so.. Seal up the the wall penetrations and and add fasteners to the the line set.

Go to to ground with the condensate line for the ac.

Do not plumb furnace drain to the condensate pump because it will freeze
during winter. Also the acidic condensate would drain on to your ac as is, not to mention the wind blowing the acidic condensate into somebodies eyes.

SEC entering disconnect on side is a hazard as water can leech thru threads and create a shock hazard.

Your furnace duct work is all wrong. You have no return on the furnace, just a filter against the RA opening on the furnace.

Put a cover over the line set; it looks like the wall is passing a long, malignant
stool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Which part? the ac or your boy friend?:furious:
Good one Bevis, uuuggghhhhhuhu huhu

Try using the right size pad, and center it if you have the cognitive ability to do so.. Seal up the the wall penetrations and and add fasteners to the the line set.

Go to to ground with the condensate line for the ac.

Do not plumb furnace drain to the condensate pump because it will freeze
during winter. Also the acidic condensate would drain on to your ac as is, not to mention the wind blowing the acidic condensate into somebodies eyes.

SEC entering disconnect on side is a hazard as water can leech thru threads and create a shock hazard.

Your furnace duct work is all wrong. You have no return on the furnace, just a filter against the RA opening on the furnace.

Put a cover over the line set; it looks like the wall is passing a long, malignant
stool.
These would be some of this finishing touches to finish the project I previously mentioned that I have yet to do. But thank you for pointing them out.

Drain in the winter was sent to a glass carboy (for brewing beer) kept inside to prevent it from freezing. I know it is not the right way to do it, but with the current situation I am/was in when installing it was a good option. The AC drain to the outside is not yet finished and will be moved away from where it sits in pic and returned to the ground. Until then, I will post signs that safety glasses must be worn in this area just for anyone who randomly walks to this remote part of the property during a windstorm. :thumbup:

The one thing I am unsure of is the return ducting. It is in a single story 21x16 garage. For heat all winter, it worked like a champ with the return the way it is. So far, the AC has worked great this way as well. I have plans for ducting in the building it will be going into latter as it will have a 2nd story.
Just for the record, this is in a single story detached garage that will hopefully be demolished before winter. I am planning to start on my (much larger) garage in the coming weeks and level the current one. Current Garage sits in the now middle of the property as the land behind it was not mine when it was built, so besides being way to small for me, it sits in a very awkward place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I told you it wouldn't work. Refering to the way you had it piped in.
Remember, you couldn't get water to flow through it right.
You were trying to make it work the way you had it piped.
:eek:
Are you serious? EXACTLY, I was attempting it that way because nobody would tell me HOW to do it right, only telling me I was wrong. My point exactly, thanks


And it stil hasn't been through a winter, to see if you have it right yet.
Actually it has, for about 2.5 months. That was late Feb when it was installed. I have used my heat in the house up until about 2 or 3 weeks ago.

Look at the first pic. See how its on blocks.
If those blocks, are enough to raise the furnace that the bottom of the blower motor is 18" above the floor. That will pass code.


Thats all thats needed. Is to have the bottom of the blower motor 18" above the floor.
And the blocks in that pic have nothing to do with trying to level out the floor to sit level? That is what it looks like to me. And BTW, how do you know what the bottom of the furnace in my install looks like? You cant see it in the pic I posted..

Just because your neighbors or anybody elses isn't installed right.
Doesn't mean its ok to install another one improperly.
Roger that...
 

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You had your radiant installed before you posted anything questions about it.

And pretty much all of your questions where answered, about doing it the way you were trying.

Including where to install purge valves.

Weather they used the blocks to level the unit. And also unintentionally also raised the furnace to meet code unknowingly, doesn't matter.
I said thats all that is needed.
You wanted a pic of how one raised would lokk. And you already had a pic posted.

Your PVC shelving to the left of your furnace. With the top of the furnace air filter showing, indicates that the furnace is not raised off the floor enough for the blower motor to be 18" above the floor.

And since you haven't posted that it is raised. Its not.
 

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Screw this a-hole Been. He dose this crap on other sites too under different screen names, but the attitude comes thru loud and clear so you know it's the same guy looking for kicks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Screw this a-hole Been. He dose this crap on other sites too under different screen names, but the attitude comes thru loud and clear so you know it's the same guy looking for kicks.
seriously? I would love to know what forums and screen names you are talking about.

I am not even going to get into wasting my time reply to each comment. I know some how think I am the "same guy" as apparently other people who have an "attitude"... Did you ever think that maybe the attitude is a "holier than thou" attitude from the people in the field that piss people who are trying to do something themselves, pushing multiple people to get an "attitude"? I have learned enough on this site that no DIY'er is able to perform HVAC of any kind. Apparently doing HVAC work is as delicate and precise a task as open heart surgery or brain surgery.

So you are right... I am the same guy across the internet. I have time to do projects (and apparently do them wrong) find a site made for people doing it themselvs and then post questions and pics about it just to start a fight... right... you nailed it.

Thanks for all the help, you guys are the best, I couldnt do it without you.
:thumbsup:
 

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seriously? I would love to know what forums and screen names you are talking about.

I am not even going to get into wasting my time reply to each comment. I know some how think I am the "same guy" as apparently other people who have an "attitude"... Did you ever think that maybe the attitude is a "holier than thou" attitude from the people in the field that piss people who are trying to do something themselves, pushing multiple people to get an "attitude"? I have learned enough on this site that no DIY'er is able to perform HVAC of any kind. Apparently doing HVAC work is as delicate and precise a task as open heart surgery or brain surgery.

So you are right... I am the same guy across the internet. I have time to do projects (and apparently do them wrong) find a site made for people doing it themselvs and then post questions and pics about it just to start a fight... right... you nailed it.

Thanks for all the help, you guys are the best, I couldnt do it without you.
:thumbsup:
Yeah, you keep that install the way it is:thumbsup:. You can be real proud of that abortion.

For every guy like you there is also one of me to balance the BS your type spews.

Beenthere caught you dead to rights and you come back here whining over the part you never mentioned.

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