[MLMIB]

I had 2 switches in an electrical box, one did a light on the porch, one did the light outside. It had a 14/3 BX and a 14/2 BX.

I added a fan to the porch, so I needed 2 more switches in the box (one fan, one for the light on the fan)

I pulled the wire (14/3 and 14/2) to the box for the fan which went on a new breaker, those switches work great

on the old one, the neutrals in the box were tied, I left that. From the existing switches each switch had 2 screw downs (a and b we'll call them) B from switch one was tied to A from switch 2 (both were tied to a black which had a loop around B from switch 1 and finished on A from switch 2) This was the black wire from the 14/2 which I presume went back to the breaker from all I can tell.

the other 2 wires were tied back to other 2 wires from the 3 wire (the neutral already being tied off)

on the new switch (a leviton 2 switch in one slot switch I bought) I tied the black wire to one side (looped around one of the screws and ended on the other) and tied the 2 wires from the old 14/3 that weren't the neutrals to the other side and thought it'd be good.

Turns out only one of the lights works now. Did I do something wrong? I checked the power with one of those current detectors and when I flip the switch there is no power, but I don't see why.

It's too dark to start pulling it back out since flipping the breaker turns the lights off in that room, so any help is much appreciated.

 

[AllanJ]

Maybve the switch unit is defective. Try switching the two wires from the old 14-e BX and see if the same light or the other light stops working.

 

[Techy]

if i'm thinking of the right style of switch.

the hot from the 14/2 should go to the side of the switch with the small breakoff tab, the black and red from the existing 14/3 should go to the other side(one per screw)

 

[MLMIB]

so this is the one I got...

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
(search Leviton Decora 15 amp Single-Pole Double Rocker Switch if the link doesn't work)

the black wires on the left side from the way it's shown.

Also, there is no breakoff tab on this one which is a bit confusing. on the left side there is a piece of metal between the 2 screws but it doesn't have the obvious connection to the top and bottom as exists on electrical outlets.

if i'm thinking of the right style of switch.

the hot from the 14/2 should go to the side of the switch with the small breakoff tab, the black and red from the existing 14/3 should go to the other side(one per screw)

 

[Techy]

the hot goes to the brass color(should only need one connection), the loads to the blacks

 

[AllanJ]

Note, when measuring voltage at switches, do not measure from one switch terminal to another switch terminal. Measure from a switch terminal to neutral. (Or if you have more than novice electrical expertise you can make heads or tails out of measuring from a switch terminal to ground.)

Another way to test if a switch is defective is to remove the wire from at least one terminal you will put a test probe on and then use the ohms or continuity function of a multimeter. (Label the wires when taking them off of terminals.)

If there was a tab you were supposed to bend back and forth to snap off and you did not then you would get lights on all the time as opposed to not working.

 

[a7ecorsair]

If you looped the black (hot) wire (14-2 BX) to both screws on one side of the switch and connected the loads (14-3 BX Red and Black) to the other side of the switch and you don't have power to these screws with the switch in ON, you have a bad switch.
Try swapping these two connections and the problem should change.