DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 240v audio amplifier (European model, but has standard three prong plug) and would like to test/use it, but I don't have an available 240v outlet other than dryer outlet.

I have a spa breaker outside (no longer have spa) and thought of just testing by wiring an outlet box to the bare wires that used to connect to spa.

But then I thought maybe best to just have an outlet in the breaker box? The breaker box model is Midwest ug412rmw250. It obviously doesn't just have one, and no punch out to add. But is it ok/is there an easy way to add one?

Or is there a good option for a 240v to 240v regular plug adapter out there (have looked, but not found -- 240v to 110 v I've seen).
 

· Registered
Joined
·
575 Posts
To understand more clearly, you have a European device but live in the United States with 120v mains?

Why not just get a step up transformer? Figure out the wattage the device uses then get a transformer that meets the power requirement. These are used all the time when people travel overseas, so their devices will work on other country's power.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8,239 Posts
You can't have a receptacle *in* the breaker box/subpanel (unless it provides space for one) ... but what you can do is use a short EMT conduit nipple to come through a knockout in the panel, out to a simple metal box, then just run 2 blacks from the receptacle in that box, into the panel and onto a 2-pole breaker. It sounds complicated if you're not used to working with EMT, but it's actually pretty straightforward.

You said this 240V appliance has a "standard outlet". It can't do that. It needs to have a 240V outlet, typically that would be a NEMA 6-15 (both blades turned 90 degrees from what you're used to). You absolutely must not install the common-as-dirt (you know the one) NEMA 5-15 recep and hook it to 240V!!! Don't even think about it! Fit a 6-15 recep that is actually made for 240V, and then, put a 6-15 plug on the appliance.

If you put 240V on a 120V socket, someone will plug in a 120V appliance and blow it to kingdom come.
 

· Electrician
Joined
·
412 Posts
You said this 240V appliance has a "standard outlet". It can't do that. It needs to have a 240V outlet, typically that would be a NEMA 6-15 (both blades turned 90 degrees from what you're used to). You absolutely must not install the common-as-dirt (you know the one) NEMA 5-15 recep and hook it to 240V!!! Don't even think about it! Fit a 6-15 recep that is actually made for 240V, and then, put a 6-15 plug on the appliance.

If you put 240V on a 120V socket, someone will plug in a 120V appliance and blow it to kingdom come.
This.

My dad had an apprentice who wired a 5-15R with 240 volts (sort of accidently). Homeowner blew up 3 vacuum cleaners before calling to say something was wrong.

Adding a receptacle beside the panel is the correct solution here. A cord cap is easy to install to replace the incorrect plug on the appliance.

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
The OP might be from Europe, so his question about a receptacle inside the electrical panel might be less "unusual" in the context of how things are done over there. A typical European service panel (aka consumer unit aka electrical panel) can indeed have an outlet sitting on a rail besides a breaker or an RCD.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
To those that replied... Your answers made me think about my situation. I ordered a 110v amp but the seller sent a 240v amp. I don't know how they got it in the US, nor if they were intending to deceive. But now I just want to see if the amp is good before deciding what to do with it. It is open box, and the cable is separate (plugs into the amp, then the wall). They sent a 110v cable (standard is plug) as well. Makes sense now.

I now have looked up that you can buy a 240v power cable, so it would be in fact different, but same type of end for the electronic.

I'll have to get the proper power cable, then set up a socket to test. And yes...I know not to plug 110v appliances into 240v 😉
 

· Registered
Joined
·
10,401 Posts
Check the amplifier instructions to see if the amp can be converted to 120 volt operation with a simple jumper wire modification.

You might have an aiir conditioner receptacle that is 240 volts.

Otherwise ...

Regrettably by the time you gather together materials, search for and shop for appropriate cords and cables on Amazon Prime, install a temporary branch circuit, etc. , and conduct tests to verify that the amp is not defective, the time allotted before you can no longer return the amp for a refund may have expired. An electrical guru could conjure up a quick and dirty, and much faster, connectiont o test with.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Check the amplifier instructions to see if the amp can be converted to 120 volt operation with a simple jumper wire modification.

You might have an aiir conditioner receptacle that is 240 volts.

Otherwise ...

Regrettably by the time you gather together materials, search for and shop for appropriate cords and cables on Amazon Prime, install a temporary branch circuit, etc. , and conduct tests to verify that the amp is not defective, the time allotted before you can no longer return the amp for a refund may have expired. An electrical guru could conjure up a quick and dirty, and much faster, connectiont o test with.
There is no voltage switch. I can get outlet at HD for $5 and a power cable for $7 shipped. The seller has actually refunded the purchase and said to dispose of the amp. It looks unused, no dust inside at all, just some light damage to rack mount holes. It's all very weird, but I can give it a shot and see how it goes. Even then, it's pretty useless to me since I can't really use it anywhere in the house, much less somewhere else. But maybe if it's good I can find a home for it.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I checked to ensure power was off (breaker) and double-checked with mulitimeter. Got NEMA 6-20 outlet at HD. Crimped about 1/2 the thickness off raw spa wires into rings and connected to outlet. I also had to get a NEMA to EIC power cord. I made my own little outlet box just to be more careful, powered it up and tested for two 120v's. All checked out. Plugged in and tested the amp. Works great! I turned power back off and removed everything. Just needed to test. Thanks for the help.
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
8,239 Posts
To those that replied... Your answers made me think about my situation. I ordered a 110v amp but the seller sent a 240v amp.
Chinese sellers do that *all the time*. To start with, find out if the appliance actually takes multi-voltage 120-240V, as many modern devices do. If it does, your journey is already at an end.

I don't know how they got it in the US, nor if they were intending to deceive.
When you direct mail from China, or via dropshippers like Amazon Fulfillment (e.g. you bought it from an Amazon Marketplace seller), it does an end-run around all the legal apparatus that keeps wackadoodle and unsafe crud out of the US market.


I'll have to get the proper power cable, then set up a socket to test. And yes...I know not to plug 110v appliances into 240v 😉
It's not a case of "knowing", it's a case of "different keying, so it's impossible to plug in the wrong thing". So it's not something you ever have to think or worry about; the plug simply will not go in.

Of course the IEC connectors found on computers etc. throw a monkey wrench into that grand plan, but the good news is *most* things with IEC plugs are dual voltage.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,263 Posts
You wrote
I have a 240v audio amplifier (European model, but has standard three prong plug) and would like to test/use it, but I don't have an available 240v outlet other than dryer outlet.
It is a "European model" but has a "standard three prong plug".
To what "standard" are you referring?

If it was delivered to you in the USA with a NEMA 5-15 Plug (or similar) connected to it, why do you believe that it will not operate correctly on 120 V (60 Hz) AC?

Have you looked at the "Name Plate" on the device and examined any of the "documentation" which you may have received with this "product"?
Also, what is the Manufacturer/Name/Model Number of this product, so that others may (possibly) be able to answer your question.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top