[AlleyG]

I am having issues with the A/C on my Amana 3.5 ton package unit. It had been running fine so far this season. It is around 12-14 years old.

Last week, I lowered the temp and the A/C kicked on and ran one cycle. I lowered the temp one more degree, but the A/C never kicked on. 20 min later, the wife noticed a funny smell by the unit outside. It was a strong burning smell that you could smell 15 ft away!

I took the panel off, and the circuit board had a big black spot in the middle of the back side of it. All the other wiring and capacitor looked fine. I ordered a new circuit board and put it in.

I ran it one cycle that night, and everything seemed fine. I ran another manual cycle yesterday, set on 74, and the temp at the vent got down to 55 deg, so a solid 18 deg below room temp.

Kicked it on later, heard the fan inside, but when I went outside all I could hear was the faint sound of the inside fan. Shut it down immediately. Opened the panel, and the circuit board and wiring looked fine.

Have not tried it since. The capacitor was replaced last year. The compressor sounds good when it runs. We did have storms the day before it started acting up. Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated!

Cliffs: replaced a burned out circuit board. Ran 2 successful cycles, 3rd cylce just got the inside fan. Red light is on the circuit board.

Thanks in advance,
Al

 

[user_12345a]

deforst board?

check for 24v between y and c terminals.

check schematic for board error codes.

post model number.

 

[yuri]

deforst board?

check for 24v between y and c terminals.

check schematic for board error codes.

post model number.

deforst board? why would a AC be deforsting?:smile:

 

[yuri]

The board may have died from old age as 10 yrs is average or it got a power surge.

You need to check if you have 24 volts AC between Y and C outside. G energizes the fan and you may have 24 volts from G to C but not Y to C which starts the compressor.

If you have 24 volts from Y to C then you need to check and see if the compressor contactor is engaged. If it is not then check to see if there is a low or high pressure control which may be open or a wiring problem. The contactor could also stick open and in some areas bugs get stuck in it.

 

[AlleyG]

Thanks! Are you referring to the contacts on the capacitor?

The model # is PGD36C0902E.

Al

 

[AlleyG]

Well, I tried it at lunch and it worked fine! Might have an intermittent issue here.

Any chance on damaging the circuit board by running it? Not comfortable running it unless I am there watching it.

Al

 

[user_12345a]

deforst board? why would a AC be deforsting?:smile:

brain fart?

 

[user_12345a]

Well, I tried it at lunch and it worked fine! Might have an intermittent issue here.

Any chance on damaging the circuit board by running it? Not comfortable running it unless I am there watching it.

Al

check connections, maybe something is loose after changing the board.

model number suggests a package unit - is the correct or do u have a split system?

 

[AlleyG]

It is a package system, A/C and gas furnace. The connections on the board are good, just push the wires on. I am really careful with that stuff.

Al

 

[BayouRunner]

You do know that there is about a 5 minute delay in between when you turn the power on and when the outside unit will come on? If you turn the thermostat off (digital) and turn it right back on the unit should not come on for whatever that delay period is. It sounds like you already fixed the problem with the bad board. It's pretty common failure where the blower relay mounts on the board and burns out like that. It always good after a repair like that to check amperage the motor is pulling as well.

 

[yuri]

Thanks! Are you referring to the contacts on the capacitor?

The model # is PGD36C0902E.

Al

The contactor ( magnetic contactor ) is the switch which turns on the compressor.

 

[AlleyG]

Well, it ran fine for 6-7 cycles. Now it is making a loud buzzing sound from that magnetic contactor. Replace it, I assume? I never checked the voltages, just saw this post.

Al

 

[yuri]

I would. They get old and stick. I figured you would be back. I will cycle them up to 24X in a row and if they are a sticker they usually will act up. There is a rating in FLA full load amps on the side of it. Probably 30 amps or higher for yours. Make sure you get the right one. Try get the OEM one as it is a huge hassle to alter the wires on a different sized/shape other one.

Check for 24 volts at it's coil and tap it when it is buzzing. If it cuts in then it is faulty. Make sure you don't get zapped in the process.

 

[AlleyG]

Yes, the FLA number is 30. But the Goodman "replacement" part I found online has different numbers under "LRA". Mine, in order says 150, 75, 50. The replacement part says 150, 50, 40. Is that an issue?

Thanks,
Al

 

[yuri]

LRA is locked rotor amps and only occurs if the compressor is seized up or has a very hard time staring. Then you have a much bigger problem. May need a hard start kit then. Full load is more important as that is what is has to handle on very hot days. Never really payed attention to LRA, I always use FLA. I would not worry about it.

 

[AlleyG]

I picked up a Packard contactor and installed it over a long lunch. So far, so good!

Thanks again,
Al

 

[yuri]

Yur Welcome.:wink2: