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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm doing a rush rush rush job at reasearching whether or not to do a tankless or a tanked water heater... (garage flooded this morning).

I'm looking at purchasing a Titan N-180 Tankless water heater which calls for (I guess) two 220 lines for a maximum of 77amps.

specs from titantankless.com are: 18KW * 220/240volts * 77amp

Is this going to be okay for my house which only has 150amp service? There's a good change I will run hotwater, dryer, AC and possibly stove at same time in the eveings... maybe.
 

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You need to do a load calculation to know for sure, but I seriously doubt you will get away with it.
 

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I have installed a couple.Then about a week later homeowner had me hooked up a reg waterheater some people love them others hate them Got Paid 2x:laughing: You will be pushing that 150 amp breaker
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have installed a couple.Then about a week later homeowner had me hooked up a reg waterheater some people love them others hate them Got Paid 2x:laughing: You will be pushing that 150 amp breaker

HA! that's funny!
What do the people hate about them? I'm pretty new to the whole technology
 

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HA! that's funny!
What do the people hate about them? I'm pretty new to the whole technology
It is not the technology that people hate. Electric tankless water heaters eat up the power.
The better choice might be gas, if you have it, or go back to tank type water heater.
A singlee 77 amp load on a 150 amp service will be taxing, along with the rest of the load you meantioned.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Jeeze guys... I'm researching around and hearing what you guys are saying and I think you're right. I think I'm just going to get another tubby.

Is 3/4" plumbing still the standard? I'm hoping to just pop in the new unit in place of the old... you don't suppose I'll be that lucky right?

My old tank was a 40 gallon (standard looking model) and only has about 6" on each side of clearance. Do you suppose a 50 gallon upgrade would be possible? I'll bring a tape measure to Lowes.

((Sorry for so many additional questions - I'm kind of hijacking my own thread... perhaps I should start a new one??))
 

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The tankless click a lot as they try to anticipate water usage. For three weeks in Germany I never got the hang of taking a shower without getting some cold water on my head. A tub bath is different since the temps. average.
 

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Another thing to consider is you'll need to get two 40 or 50 amp circuits from the panel to the tankless.

Unless the heater is right next to the panel, it'll likely be considerable work.

Rob
 

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Another thing to consider is you'll need to get two 40 or 50 amp circuits from the panel to the tankless.

Unless the heater is right next to the panel, it'll likely be considerable work.

Rob
Thats right. 4 breaker spaces not 2. Running cables and 77 amp draw. No way on the 150 amp service and your house is electric on top of that. You could use a gas tankless if gas is available. That would be the best option IMO.

The savings isn't worth it anyway. It would take many many years to pay off the initial cost difference.
I agree Gigs. He may never recoup a dime. You add the installation and the increased power consumption, I just cannot see any savings at all.

Note: Not to knock all TWH's. I like the "point of use" types on certain applications.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Final project

Here's what I ended up doing. Fun DIY project...

I wanted to use the braided flex for both connections but it just didn't work out on the cold side. The bend would have been too hard.

I had to replace the shut-off valve along with the water heater. Pretty bad when the valve failed as well as the tank... it made the interim time a bit of a pain since I couldn't shut off water from there.

Electrical was MUCH easier than a tankless I'm certian...

 

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Looks Good Takes up alot more room Save Some $ and buy a hot water timer have it turn on when you use the most hot water. I would not own a Tankless Water Heater.:no: Good Job:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Looks Good Takes up alot more room Save Some $ and buy a hot water timer have it turn on when you use the most hot water. I would not own a Tankless Water Heater.:no: Good Job:thumbsup:
Thanks!
I've been searching the dog-doo out of Lowes and Home Depo's web site trying to find such a timer. I must not be using the right search words. I'm lost in the isles...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Beautiful!! I don't know why I was having so much trouble finding that. Thank you.

So I guess it's just as simple as re-routing the wires into and out of that?

I wonder if they have a water tank mount... I don't have any wall left :)
 

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Here's what I ended up doing. Fun DIY project...

I wanted to use the braided flex for both connections but it just didn't work out on the cold side. The bend would have been too hard.

I had to replace the shut-off valve along with the water heater. Pretty bad when the valve failed as well as the tank... it made the interim time a bit of a pain since I couldn't shut off water from there.

Electrical was MUCH easier than a tankless I'm certian...

Hard to tell from pic but can you mount it between the cold and hot lines just flex into timmer then flex back out to waterheater.The timmers are not that wide.use toggle bolts to mount.
 

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Maybe already mentioned.....but
You need a pipe on that T&P valve down to the floor

I have 5 of the Intermatic timers at my house
1 for the pool pump, 4 for the Halloween/Christmas display
I guess I could use the pool one for the display too since its off season for the pool
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Great idea. I have 7" between the pipes but 10" on the right hand side of the cold. The ideal place would be mounted on the wall above the washing machine. My electrical flex and wire isn't long enough to reach that though. I could probably fenagle it though.

(I think it may be hard for the wife to reach between the two pipes)

Web site says it's only 5.25" wide which is good.

 

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Discussion Starter #20
Maybe already mentioned.....but
You need a pipe on that T&P valve down to the floor
Hey Scuba_Dave... there was actually a pipe running behind the wall on the old unit. It's now just cut off behind the tank. The guy at Lowes said to ignore it... yeesh.

Does water come out of that on a regular basis? I could tie into it agian if it's something that get's used a lot.
 
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