[photogeis]

Hello All,
I'm a new home owner and looking to put timber posts or railroad ties where there is no curb on the street. I'm figuring that I can get some 12 foot 6x6 post, put rebar through them into the ground and maybe even connect them via bracket.
I could use any advice for using timber vs railroad ties for a curb instead of concrete. It seems straight forward but i've not come across anyone posting guides on this so I figured I'd ask here. Thanks in advance.

 

[ZZZZZ]

Railroad ties can be messy, with all the creosote-goo on them. And they are very heavy, a PITA to move around.

I used pressure-treated 4x6 and joined them with half-lap joints.

I'll post a photo tomorrow.
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[jlhaslip]

Call you local Dial-before-you-dig number and have the property staked before proceeding.

Don't ask me how I know this... thanks.

 

[joecaption]

Forget about the railroad ties as suggested, they've already reached there expected live span and have started to rot, that's why they where replaced.
That 1/2 lap as suggested is important to tie the ends together.
Should be able to to make it with two cuts with the saw set at max depth and a Sawsall to connect the cuts.
1/2" X 24" rebar as a stake.

 

[ZZZZZ]

Railroad ties can be messy, with all the creosote-goo on them. And they are very heavy, a PITA to move around.

I used pressure-treated 4x6 and joined them with half-lap joints.

I'll post a photo tomorrow.
.
.

Here's a few photos.

Your project is a bit different than mine, but I think you can get the idea.

This is a small RV pad off my main driveway.

There is no curb on the concrete and it is a pretty sharp drop-off over the edges. I almost backed my truck off the back edge one time, that's when I decided I need the curb.

These are pressure treated 4' 4x6s. It's hard to tell from the photos, but the pad is curved. i cut the timber into 4' sections to better follow the curve of the pad. If 4x6 isn't beefy enough for your project, you can double them up and make 8x6s if you can't find PT 6x6s.

The half-lap joints are secured with two long lag screws and construction adhesive. I used a recip saw with a long blade to cut the laps.

For your project, instead you can bore a couple of holes through each lap, and drive the rebar into the ground.

Mine are painted with solid color wood stain. (I had an open half gallon and just wanted to use it up.) The top coat has held up well over 3 years so far, in the bright sun most of the day.
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[photogeis]

Much appreciated for the tips. It will definitely help. Thankfully lines were marked last year for gas and water for gas conversion and other work.