If I have 12 50W recessed lights connected to a dimmer switch and another 4 50W lights connected to another normal switch the dimmer wattage rating only counts if the power is going through it to the lights and not all the lights on the circuit right?
600W dimmer, limits are what's connected to the switch?
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Correct, though its usually a good idea to size your dimmer to the max load that could possibly be put on it with the rating of the cans. Different trims will allow for different wattage of bulbs to be used, its best to plan ahead in the event you need to put in brighter bulbs. Also is a good idea to over size the dimmer a little bit, I believe this is usually good pratice to help prolong the life of the dimmer.
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Likely you'll be "ok" but you are right at your 600 watt limit. If you keep the kights dimmed for a long period of time you will likely shorten the life of the dimmer. Does your dimmer have plenty of room to breathe in the box? Are you using a metal or plastic box? If its metal that will help with the heat disipation some.The 1000W are expensive(as a three way switch).
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+1 !That's why we split the switch legs up
Never load a dimmer to it's max.
If a 1000 watt dimmer is too expensive use a regular switch.
How much did 12 recessed lights cost???
It's hooked up to a regular switch now and we would just like it dimmer while watching tv. What I think I'm going to do is keep the three other lights on the three-way switch and get a single-pole dimmer to control the other 12. Those are only around $30, for some reason the three-ways jump way up in price.
The recessed lights ended up being around $600 all said and done.
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Nope, just a regular box.
I have a 1000W Lutron dimmer next to a 600W dimmer in a deep plastic box. I had to break the inner fins off to accommodate each other. This effects the watt handling capabilities of the switch based on the MFG instructions.. But my concern is HOT On the 1000W which is actually 800W after removing the fins I have (8) IC20 Juno cans with 75 watt bulbs. When fully illuminated the switch is so hot you can't touch the alum face plate. Is this typical??? Just concerned...
On the 1000W which is actually 800W after removing the fins I have (8) IC20 Juno cans with 75 watt bulbs. When fully illuminated the switch is so hot you can't touch the alum face plate. Is this typical??? Just concerned...
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I've seen derating tables from Lutron before for their dimmers, but I think they were only for the same model of dimmers side-by-side. The 600W dimmer would have to be derated too, and probably more than if it were next to another 600W unit. What's the load on the 600W?I have a 1000W Lutron dimmer next to a 600W dimmer in a deep plastic box. I had to break the inner fins off to accommodate each other. This effects the watt handling capabilities of the switch based on the MFG instructions.. But my concern is HOT
Anyway, if it's too hot to touch then something is definately wrong -- at least you have a metal faceplate to help sink some of that heat.
From Lutron's site (genernally true):
During normal operation, dimmers do get warm to the touch. Wallbox dimmer efficiency is typically around 99%. The other 1% is dissipated in the dimmer as heat. So a dimmer on a 600 W load would produce around 6 watts of heat. This is on the order of a small night light. Operating on it’s rated load, Lutron dimmers will stay below the UL limits of 140º F (60º C).
You could have quite a few watts of heat generated between your 2 dimmers.
Thanks ScottR :thumbsup: I'm gonna see if I can get a temp reading off it. The 600W dimmer has a very limited load on it and does not get too warm.
The 1000W dimmer only gets warm/hot at brightest setting. If I kick it down a bit it cools right down. Maybe it's the way it is.....not sure
Double checked all the wiring ect and it's all fine...
The 1000W dimmer only gets warm/hot at brightest setting. If I kick it down a bit it cools right down. Maybe it's the way it is.....not sure
Double checked all the wiring ect and it's all fine...
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Good deal about the 600W.
Even if the 1000W falls within UL limits on temp., it's still hazardous (or at least inconvenient) to have a scalding hot wall plate. Though I guess I'm preaching to the choir on that. :laughing: If you can split up the load on the 1000W dimmer, that might be your best option, but obviously could be a major PITA.
I put a thermometer on it today unfortunately it's a mouth thermometer and only goes to 109 degrees F and it was all of that. Two things I'll do change the bulbs to 50 watt PAR 20's and I was thinking exactly that dividing the circuit up....looked at it and it won't be a big deal:thumbup:
Thanks for all your help :thumbsup:
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I use Philips Halogena bulbs in all my cans. They're halogen which (IMO) looks better than incandescent, and use 40W for a 65W lighting equivalent. I buy 'em at HD, but I'm guessing they're pretty widely available.
http://www.lighting.philips.com/us_en/products/halogena/indoor_flood_spot.php
I know you said you have 75W bulbs now, so they might not be bright enough for you. They're also more expensive than incand., but at least you get some energy savings (you'd be 35W * 8 = 240W lower on your dimmer load).
http://www.lighting.philips.com/us_en/products/halogena/indoor_flood_spot.php
I know you said you have 75W bulbs now, so they might not be bright enough for you. They're also more expensive than incand., but at least you get some energy savings (you'd be 35W * 8 = 240W lower on your dimmer load).
I guess I have to figure out the trim rings we will use. Looks like certain bulbs fit certain trim rings as there is a chart of specific bulbs and trim rings that came with the lights
Can you put 3 dimmers together in a 3 gang box?? I divided the circuit....much better :thumbup: But now I've created a situation where I would have to have 3 dimmers together. Actually looking at it it makes more sense as well to divide the room into two circuits with the IC cans in the ceiling.
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Indeed.. So long as you follow that you'll be OK. The page I linked to you only has 2 different sizes of bulb, but I'm pretty sure there were 3-4 sizes available @ HD.
You can if the mfr. allows it (just like when you derated the 1000W dimmer to 800W, you'd probably have to derate all 3). Also you need to make sure you don't over-fill the box. Depends upon how many wires you have going into the box and how big the dimmers are. If you haven't installed it already, using an extra-deep box couldn't hurt -- the more air space around the dimmers the better.
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