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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone. New to this forum, but I would really appreciate some input from anyone that could help me out.

California resident here. A couple weeks ago. I had a sub-panel installed in my garage. It was done by a highly recommended and licensed local electrician. The garage is attached to the house. Directly on the other side of the wall where the sub-panel is mounted is the main breaker box. The main breaker box is 125 amp main breaker and there is a 50 amp breaker going to the sub-panel.

My question is do any of you see anything wrong with the sub-panel that requires attention. Mainly the bus bar. I have been looking online at forums and pictures and have been getting mixed opinions. Some people say in my situation its ok for the ground and neutral to be on the same bus bar, and others say its not ok and I am looking for a definitive answer. I have included some pictures of the sub-panel and how it is mounted. The electrician installed two 20 amp 110 outlets, but wanted to much money to install the other outlets I wanted so I went down to homedepot and purchased the wire breakers and other things I needed to do it myself. I plan on installing an aditional 20 amp 110 outlet and two 20 amp 240 volt outlets. I wanted to know if there is anything on the sub-panel that requires attention before I do install these additional outlets though.



 

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The two wires in the same lug is an issue. They are not rated for two. Also the wires are too small to be paralleled on the feeders.

The bond strap should not be installed . The grounds should not be on the neutral bus.

He might have gotten one thing right, but I stopped looking with so much wrong.

It doesn't look like gfi protection was installed either.
 

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A "Handy Husband"
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Looks like he paralleled 2 #12 or #10 on the feed from the main to the sub. That should be single #6. Need to add a ground bar. Remove the bonding strap and move the grounds. The MC cable out of the t of the box looks like it is using a NM clamp.

You sure this guy was licenced? Did he get a permit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wow.....really. This was recommended to me by a couple people, and the reviews he had online are great. He charged me 520 bucks for this. So basically the sub-panel isnt safe or up to code and he got my money.

Ok from the top. So you are saying the 2 hots and neutral wires coming from the main breaker should be 1 single wire on each lug? What gauge should those wires be? Also if the bonding strap is removed that would make that bus bar just for the neutrals correct? So how am I to add a bus bar for the ground wires?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The guy is licensed. I checked the license status and everything. His license is active for electrical and general contracting. He has been doing work in the area for over 15 years. I figured being around so long and so many great reviews and recommendations he would be a safe bet.
 

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A "Handy Husband"
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The guy is licensed. I checked the license status and everything. His license is active for electrical and general contracting. He has been doing work in the area for over 15 years. I figured being around so long and so many great reviews and recommendations he would be a safe bet.
As was once said " You can fool all of the people some of the time".

I think it was B H Obama.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I am going to do that. In the mean time I am going to flip the breaker that runs to it off and stop using it. I am so dissapointed now and angry at this dude now, because I dont have money growing out of my ears, but I appreciate the information
 

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RJ , I agree , the connection on top does look like an NM . The sheath sticks too far through for an MC connector.

A ground bar can be added for the grounds.
 

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Other than how bad the panel looks, nice shop set up!

Nothing more to add other than what was said above.
 

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If I would shut the breaker off at the sub- panel and remove it, would it still be hot? As it is still being fed from the main panel. Should their be some sort of lock on that 20 amp breaker.
There is no way the person that did that sub panel has ever done electrical work before. That was a first time homeowner job.
 

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If I would shut the breaker off at the sub- panel and remove it, would it still be hot? As it is still being fed from the main panel. Should their be some sort of lock on that 20 amp breaker.
There is no way the person that did that sub panel has ever done electrical work before. That was a first time homeowner job.
The breaker is not backfed. The feed goes into the lugs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Other than how bad the panel looks, nice shop set up!

Nothing more to add other than what was said above.
Thanks jb. Its coming together. Just purchased a grizzle hybrid table saw that is going to run on 220v to replace my ridgid portable saw which I have been using. So I wanted to have this sub-panel done right before I recieve it
 
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