Hi,
I am remodeling my bathroom and haven't chosen the floor tile yet but most likely it will be ceramic. FYI, I'm in Ontario, Canada.
I've found out from an online deflection calculator that my current joists are capable of greater than L/720 rating. Here's the specs of my joists, 2" x 10", 12" OC, 12' span....that's for the majority of the bathroom. One section near one wall has the joists running perpendicular to the rest of the room for 2' and these are on 16" centers....much more solid than the rest of the floor. So from what I have been able to tell, I can go ceramic or stone tile with the joist configuration that I have.
I currently have 5/8" OSB subfloor that I'd like to upgrade to plywood, not be cause it is damaged at all but I'm there and I might as well upgrade it so that I start with a solid foundation. I have to pull up at least a third of the floor anyways to modify drain plumbing, changeout the PVC water supply lines (as a preventive measure as some of the houses in my neighbourhood have had major water damage from these lines due to failure...from what I can tell it's the plastic fittings and not the pipe).
My question is, do I just replace the OSB with 5/8" plywood or go the 3/4" plywood route? I would also like to use Ditra above the floor heat and try to keep the total height to a minimum given that my adjoining bedroom floor is 5/8" OSB with 3/4" hardwood on top.
Also, given my joist deflection criteria, can I just use 3/4" plywood and ditra or should another layer be added?
Secondly, what is the best way to get the whole floor up and cut right up against the wall? Some of the walls are bare to the studs and some have drywall right down to the floor pretty well.
If i stay with the 5/8" plywood option I could leave a trim of about 1 - 1.5" (whatever my circular saw allows) along the walls then add the 5/8" plywood and maybe use a 2 x 4 joining piece extending on both sides of the old and new floor so that the deflection at those spots are minimized as there won't be a tongue / groove connection there.
If I go with the 3/4" new plywood, how do I screw down the floor at the edges? Just into the joists? Will that be sufficient to prevent deflection of the subfloor between the joists?
Sorry for all the questions and long post but I have done as much research as I can but just need some help here?
thanks,
I am remodeling my bathroom and haven't chosen the floor tile yet but most likely it will be ceramic. FYI, I'm in Ontario, Canada.
I've found out from an online deflection calculator that my current joists are capable of greater than L/720 rating. Here's the specs of my joists, 2" x 10", 12" OC, 12' span....that's for the majority of the bathroom. One section near one wall has the joists running perpendicular to the rest of the room for 2' and these are on 16" centers....much more solid than the rest of the floor. So from what I have been able to tell, I can go ceramic or stone tile with the joist configuration that I have.
I currently have 5/8" OSB subfloor that I'd like to upgrade to plywood, not be cause it is damaged at all but I'm there and I might as well upgrade it so that I start with a solid foundation. I have to pull up at least a third of the floor anyways to modify drain plumbing, changeout the PVC water supply lines (as a preventive measure as some of the houses in my neighbourhood have had major water damage from these lines due to failure...from what I can tell it's the plastic fittings and not the pipe).
My question is, do I just replace the OSB with 5/8" plywood or go the 3/4" plywood route? I would also like to use Ditra above the floor heat and try to keep the total height to a minimum given that my adjoining bedroom floor is 5/8" OSB with 3/4" hardwood on top.
Also, given my joist deflection criteria, can I just use 3/4" plywood and ditra or should another layer be added?
Secondly, what is the best way to get the whole floor up and cut right up against the wall? Some of the walls are bare to the studs and some have drywall right down to the floor pretty well.
If i stay with the 5/8" plywood option I could leave a trim of about 1 - 1.5" (whatever my circular saw allows) along the walls then add the 5/8" plywood and maybe use a 2 x 4 joining piece extending on both sides of the old and new floor so that the deflection at those spots are minimized as there won't be a tongue / groove connection there.
If I go with the 3/4" new plywood, how do I screw down the floor at the edges? Just into the joists? Will that be sufficient to prevent deflection of the subfloor between the joists?
Sorry for all the questions and long post but I have done as much research as I can but just need some help here?
thanks,