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#### Shaotzu

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Discussion Starter · ·
Ok, so my guess is that I'm probably going to have open MS Paint and draw this out, but here's my attempt at explaining this and see if anyone has a solution. I have on one circuit, a plan for three "zones" to be switched by four-way switches (1 set of 4-ways per zone). So here's the scenario I have:

Box One:
Power IN (14-2)
Switch A1
Switch B1
Switch C1
(14-3 wire out)

Box Two:
Switch A2
Switch B2
Switch C2
(14-3 wire out)

Box Three:
Switch A3
Switch B3
Switch C3
Power Out A
Power Out B
Power Out C
(Power out on 3 separate 14-2 cables)

My question is I know I'll grab a wire nut and combine all the grounds across the board, but what what's the best way to wire the hots and neutrals? I'm more than willing to get some diagrams up, but figured that surely someone had run into this so far!

P.S. Box 1 will have 3-way switches, Box 2 will have 4-way switches, and Box 3 will have 3-way switches

#### Saturday Cowboy

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##### Scared Electrician
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715 Posts
so you will have three switch loops running thru all three boxes. allowing you to control three different groups of lights from three different spots.

First rule of 3way switching is run a 3 wire between all switches. SO you will need three cables with 3 wire (not including ground) from box 1 to box 2 to box 3. From box three you will need to have three more cables going to the controlled lights respectively.

I hope I haven't lost u yet.

In box one we have our power in! great. This will be our KING neutral and King hot for purposes of this lecture The King hot will need to be spliced to each common screw of the 3 three way switches (thats the black screw). the King neutral will need to be spliced to each white in all three 3 wire cables going to the next switch box. the red and black wires in the cable going to box2 are called TRAVELERS. they will land on their respective 3way switch on the brass collered screws, it doesn't matter which.

Grounds all made up of course.

In the next box Box 2. We have the incoming cables (3) from box1 and (3) outgoing cables to box3. All neutrals will be spliced together. the travelers from box1 will land on one pair of the 4 screws on these 4way switches. the other cables going to box3 will also be landed on the 4 way switches each on a pair of traveler screws on the respective switch.

then in box3 we have 6calbes 3 incoming travelers from box2 and 3 going to lights. The incoming travlers will go on the brass screws of their respective switch. the Neutrals will all get spliced together. the black hots from the 3 light cables will be landed on the black screw of their respictive switch.

Make up connections at lights.

Shaotzu

#### Shaotzu

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66 Posts
Discussion Starter · ·
so you will have three switch loops running thru all three boxes. allowing you to control three different groups of lights from three different spots.

First rule of 3way switching is run a 3 wire between all switches. SO you will need three cables with 3 wire (not including ground) from box 1 to box 2 to box 3. From box three you will need to have three more cables going to the controlled lights respectively.

I hope I haven't lost u yet.
That was the part I was pretty sure about! 14-3 wire for each switch - CHECK!!!

In box one we have our power in! great. This will be our KING neutral and King hot for purposes of this lecture The King hot will need to be spliced to each common screw of the 3 three way switches (thats the black screw). the King neutral will need to be spliced to each white in all three 3 wire cables going to the next switch box.
This was the main question I had - so the power and neutral in get spliced into one wire nut?

The HOT is in one wire nut shared with all the common screws in each switch?

And the NEUTRAL is in one wire nut for all three wire runs of neutral? (Not hitting the switches of course)[/QUOTE]
the red and black wires in the cable going to box2 are called TRAVELERS. they will land on their respective 3way switch on the brass collered screws, it doesn't matter which.

Grounds all made up of course.

In the next box Box 2. We have the incoming cables (3) from box1 and (3) outgoing cables to box3. All neutrals will be spliced together. the travelers from box1 will land on one pair of the 4 screws on these 4way switches. the other cables going to box3 will also be landed on the 4 way switches each on a pair of traveler screws on the respective switch.

then in box3 we have 6calbes 3 incoming travelers from box2 and 3 going to lights. The incoming travlers will go on the brass screws of their respective switch. the Neutrals will all get spliced together. the black hots from the 3 light cables will be landed on the black screw of their respictive switch.

Make up connections at lights.

Just concerned about BOX 1 - but otherwise, I think it's all good at Rough-In!!!

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715 Posts
think u have it

#### frenchelectrican

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##### " Euro " electrician
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5,369 Posts
Saturday Cowboy got this covered pretty good however let me warn you make sure you get the deepwell three gang box if possible otherwise you may run into count issue.

Second thing I want to give you a head up when you get the fourway switch just watch out what format you will get due there is couple verison of connection and beware of double pole switch that will have on / off imprint there unless you got the decora rocker style then it will be little tough unless you snag the model number then we can assist you on that.

If you want the dimmer swtich please let us know we will help you due there are few ways to deal with dimmer escpcally if you have fourway in the mix. { normally I use the multi location dimmers that useally slove the issue }

And the way you describing that is the best way is power in at first switch box and power out going at the last box that serve two purpose one is you don't have to worry about remarking the white conductor at all second thing you will be ahead of 2011 NEC code required have netural at the switch box location so that will slove alot of issues.

If this is a brand new circuit I am pretty sure most states will requied this to be on AFCI so just give you a head up with it.

Merci,
Marc

#### Shaotzu

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##### Registered
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Discussion Starter · ·
Just finished the splicing wiring for rough-in inspection . . . so far so good. Thanks for all the help on it. I'll update everyone when two things happen:

1) It clears inspection
2) It actually works!!!!

(And thanks on the AFCI and dimmer recommendations. I knew those and actually it is on an AFCI breaker and the third box location is dimming . . . go figure!!!)

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