[Shaotzu]

Ok ... So drywall is up and wondering if I can salvage this without tearing into everything. So here's what I have:

Power into 3 way switch
14-3 wire to fixture 1
14-3 wire to fixture 2 (oops)
14-3 wire to 3 way switch

With that setup, I basically have only 1 neutral to work with ... Which means I have only one fixture I can make happy and work. Any idea how I can make fixture 2 light up?

Other info ... 15A service on a regular breaker. However... All devices around this are new and on AFCI... so no sharing of the neutrals.

 

[sirsparksalot]

Right, you just needed a 2-wire between the lights. So, ignore the RED wire between the lights - it won't be connected at either end.

 

[sirsparksalot]

With that setup, I basically have only 1 neutral to work with ... Which means I have only one fixture I can make happy and work. Any idea how I can make fixture 2 light up?

You will just need a pigtail (6" piece of white wire) from the White Neutral entering the first lamp to the second lamp.

 

[frenchelectrican]

Ok ... So drywall is up and wondering if I can salvage this without tearing into everything. So here's what I have:

Power into 3 way switch
14-3 wire to fixture 1
14-3 wire to fixture 2 (oops)
14-3 wire to 3 way switch

With that setup, I basically have only 1 neutral to work with ... Which means I have only one fixture I can make happy and work. Any idea how I can make fixture 2 light up?

Other info ... 15A service on a regular breaker. However... All devices around this are new and on AFCI... so no sharing of the neutrals.

Let me get this correct the power to first three way switch then luminaire *1 then luminare*2 then three way switch ??

If so then it will not really work at all the only way it will work the best is if you take first three way and run 14-3 to the other three way switch then from there you can keep the exsting cable then the luminaires will work that way.

(My prefered way is start at the first three way switch which you have power then run the shuttle conductors { travellers } to second three way switch then run to the luminaires this is about the best way you can do it and plus what more it each switch box location you will have legit netural at switch box { this will be in effect with 2011 NEC code cycle only when your state will adopt it }

Otherwise you will have to bring out 14-2 between the luminaires for the shuttle conductors I will have to find a drawing somehow.

Merci,
Marc

 

[Shaotzu]

You will just need a pigtail (6" piece of white wire) from the White Neutral entering the first lamp to the second lamp.

That's my problem... I can't get a neutral ran from lamp 1 to lamp 2.

It's kind of what I figured though ... I need some way to get a neutral into lamp 2.

 

[Shaotzu]

Let me get this correct the power to first three way switch then luminaire *1 then luminare*2 then three way switch ??

If so then it will not really work at all the only way it will work the best is if you take first three way and run 14-3 to the other three way switch then from there you can keep the exsting cable then the luminaires will work that way.

(My prefered way is start at the first three way switch which you have power then run the shuttle conductors { travellers } to second three way switch then run to the luminaires this is about the best way you can do it and plus what more it each switch box location you will have legit netural at switch box { this will be in effect with 2011 NEC code cycle only when your state will adopt it }

Otherwise you will have to bring out 14-2 between the luminaires for the shuttle conductors I will have to find a drawing somehow.

Merci,
Marc

Marc,

I prefer power into switches first and then running the power out to the fixtures too. It makes life so much easier! Unfortunately, this one didn't really work out this way and I made the mistake of running only one 14/3 between the fixtures instead of two 14/2s... So now I'm short a neutral!

One question... The end of the run (last switch) is in a box with other switches and neutrals from a different lighting circuit. Not ideal, but if that wasn't on an AFCI breaker, could I tie into a neutral there and run back to my second lamp? (that run I can make)

 

[joed]

You can not tie into a neutral from a different circuit. It would not work even if you could. You still need three wires for the switch and then a fourth wire for the neutral.

There is only one way to fix this. You must pull a new cable. It could be between the fixtures or between the switches.

 

[a7ecorsair]

Ok ... So drywall is up and wondering if I can salvage this without tearing into everything. So here's what I have:

Power into 3 way switch
14-3 wire to fixture 1
14-3 wire to fixture 2 (oops)
14-3 wire to 3 way switch

With that setup, I basically have only 1 neutral to work with ... Which means I have only one fixture I can make happy and work. Any idea how I can make fixture 2 light up?

Is this the path of the cables too?
You only need one neutral but you need two travelers between the switches.

Which means I have only one fixture I can make happy and work.

Can you make one fixture work so it is controlled by both switches?

 

[Shaotzu]

Is this the path of the cables too?
You only need one neutral but you need two travelers between the switches.
Can you make one fixture work so it is controlled by both switches?

Yes... This is the cable path as well. And I have no problem getting one light to work ... Just can't get both.

 

[a7ecorsair]

Do you have access to the attic so you can get to the fixture boxes? If so, add a 14-2 between the boxes. That should give you what you need.

 

[AllanJ]

Do they make a wireless 3 way switch kit? This way you can send raw hot power to the remote switch (#2) using the black wires, send switched power from the load switch (#1) to the lights using the red wire, (and white for neutral).

 

[Shaotzu]

Do you have access to the attic so you can get to the fixture boxes? If so, add a 14-2 between the boxes. That should give you what you need.

Unfortunately no. It's a wall sconce in a stairwell and then another one in the basement on the wall. attic is no help.

 

[electures]

You could use www.X10.com modules.

 

[a7ecorsair]

You could use X10 modules.

This is a useless link...............

 

[electures]

This is a useless link...............

Try again.

 

[sirsparksalot]

That's my problem... I can't get a neutral ran from lamp 1 to lamp 2.

It's kind of what I figured though ... I need some way to get a neutral into lamp 2.

There is only one way to fix this. You must pull a new cable. It could be between the fixtures or between the switches.

Joed, why couldn't he simply conect the whites from lamp box1 to lamp box2, and use a pigtail to lamp1?

Let me find a diagram.

 

[sirsparksalot]

Like this?

 

[Shaotzu]

Like this?

But that's not switch-fix-fix-switch with one 14/3 going... Is it?

 

[rjniles]

Sparks,

You are not seeing how the OP ran the wires:

He went form the first switch box (with the power) to the first light with 14-3. From the first to the second light with 14-3. From the second light to the second switch with 14-3. Assume he uses the red and black for the travelers. At the first switch he connects the hot to the common. He connects the supply neutral to the white of the 14-3 . At both lights he splices the red/blacks through to the second switch. At the second switch he connects the white (remarked) of the 14-3 to the common. Now he has a neutral in the first light and a switched hot at the second light. The only remaining wire is the white in the 14-3 between the 2 lights. He can use it to extend the neutral to light 2 OR use it to extend the switched hot to light 1 BUT NOT DO BOTH. He needs another conductor between light 1 and light 2.

This is why I never run the 3 wire cable for a 3 way switch through the light boxes but always go from switch to switch with the 3 wire cable. Then a 2 wire cable from one of the switches to the light or lights.

The OP has no options except to run additional cable.

 

[Shaotzu]

Sparks,

You are not seeing how the OP ran the wires:

He went form the first switch box (with the power) to the first light with 14-3. From the first to the second light with 14-3. From the second light to the second switch with 14-3. Assume he uses the red and black for the travelers. At the first switch he connects the hot to the common. He connects the supply neutral to the white of the 14-3 . At both lights he splices the red/blacks through to the second switch. At the second switch he connects the white (remarked) of the 14-3 to the common. Now he has a neutral in the first light and a switched hot at the second light. The only remaining wire is the white in the 14-3 between the 2 lights. He can use it to extend the neutral to light 2 OR use it to extend the switched hot to light 1 BUT NOT DO BOTH. He needs another conductor between light 1 and light 2.

This is why I never run the 3 wire cable for a 3 way switch through the light boxes but always go from switch to switch with the 3 wire cable. Then a 2 wire cable from one of the switches to the light or lights.

The OP has no options except to run additional cable.

Thanks! I was just going through the setup and making sure i didn't miss anything on sparks, but yup... I'm short a conductor.

So if tying to a different neutral (different circuit) is not going to work I think I'll go with leviton's 6696-w wireless switch. That way, I can use the red as an additional hot and keep the white as neutral all the way through. Should make life easier and not requiring tearing up drywall for an extra cable run!