[nap]

Thread 14/3 wire from room up into fan box hole, passing through fan box into the attic

that is presuming the circuit is a 15 amp circuit. If a 20 amp circuit, you must use #12 wire.

11. Replace old switch w/ new switches (wire power to new switches)
12. Replace old gang box with double-gang box

wiring the switches before installing the boxes? reverse order

In attic, secure wire to joists using cable straps

if this is near an scuttle hole, you must use runner boards on both sides of the cable to protect it.

21. balance fan

What if the center of the room is on a joist? Are there fan boxes specifically for attaching directly to a joist?

yes. just make sure any box you use is "fan rated" so it will be rated to support the fan.

What if the center of the room is only partially on a joist? Would the fan just have to be slightly off the center of the room, then?

there are some really odd boxes out there that will allow you center the fan even in this situation but realize, you won't be off more than a couple inches if you just move the fan over to the edge of the joist. Depending on how the room is laid out, it is usually not even notceable


it sounds like you the process understood well.

 

[rjniles]

Mechanically I do not see a problem with your plan with Nap's changes. Electrically I see 2 scenarios:

1. If the power feed is at the switch box, do not disconnect and tape the cable going to the switched receptacle or it will be dead. Instead disconnect from the switch and connect directly to the power feed.

2, Power is at the switched receptacle and you have only a switch loop at the existing switch. That means that you will have a hot feed at the switch but no neutral. Go to the switched receptacle , disconnect the white wire coming from the switch (that will be the switched hot coming from the switch). Connect it to the power feed neutral and connect the power feed hot back to the receptacle.

 

[oberkc]

I suspect your step 9 may be making things a bit harder than it needs to be. Rather than starting your wire by pushing or pulling through your ceiling box, I would start in the attic with the wire by first feeding to the switch, through the top plate. Once there, take the remaining wire to the ceiling box and cut to length. I see no reason to pull the entire length of wire through the ceiling box.

 

[thadsaab]

I would add, be sure to purchase deep enough double gang boxes to meet fill requirements. I did this recently and in my case the existing wiring into the existing single gang box was a 14/2 and a 14/3 cable. In this situation, to add another 14/3 cable and have two switches requires a box that has at least (2+3+3+1+2+2)*2 = 26 cu. in.

 

[bodekms]

Thanks everyone for your input.

nap - is there any way to tell if it's a 15 vs. 20 amp circuit other than by looking at the existing wire? Do I have to use runner boards if I thread the wire through holes in the joists, or only if I lay the wire overtop the joist?

rjniles - the only reason I said to tape off the outlet was because I figured replacing the outlet w/ the fan on the circuit would reduce the possibility of circuit overload. Would having both the outlet and ceiling fan be ok? That's probably something you can't tell w/o seeing what else is on the circuit, though.

And thanks for the info on how to convert from a switch loop to what I want. I meant to ask about that, but completely forgot.

oberkc - yeah, I wasn't thinking incredibly clearly when writing this. Thanks.

thadsaab - thanks for that info.

Also, I've been thinking about how the wiring of the switch would work. Would it just be the hot wire from power in a wirenut w/ the hot wires for each switch? And if so, what about rjniles suggestion about tying the outlet into the power source? Could I just add that hot wire into that same wirenut (4 hot wires in 1 wirenut)?

 

[nap]

nap - is there any way to tell if it's a 15 vs. 20 amp circuit other than by looking at the existing wire? Do I have to use runner boards if I thread the wire through holes in the joists, or only if I lay the wire overtop the joist?

well , the first thing would be check the breaker of fuse size. Most people will presume it is correct for the current circuit and typically, that is acceptable. So, if it is a 15, you are good with the #14. If it's a 20, you must use #12. If it is a 20, I would look at the wire you have access to to be sure it is correct for the circuit as a double check.

to the running boards; they are to protect the wire from being walked on. If you bore holes, no running boards needed. I can't remember offhand house far away from a scuttle you have to be before the protection is not needed. Hopefully one of the resi guys that deals with that more commonly can jump in with the distance.

 

[rjniles]

rjniles - the only reason I said to tape off the outlet was because I figured replacing the outlet w/ the fan on the circuit would reduce the possibility of circuit overload. Would having both the outlet and ceiling fan be ok? That's probably something you can't tell w/o seeing what else is on the circuit, though.

There should be no problem having the fan and receptacle on the same circuit. As to whether you have a 15 amp (#14 wire) or 20 amp (#12 wire), look at the circuit breaker that opowes this circuit.



Also, I've been thinking about how the wiring of the switch would work. Would it just be the hot wire from power in a wirenut w/ the hot wires for each switch? And if so, what about rjniles suggestion about tying the outlet into the power source? Could I just add that hot wire into that same wirenut (4 hot wires in 1 wirenut)?

Yes 4 wires in one wire nut is fine.

 

[bodekms]

Are there rules on hole location/size on the ceiling joists? Since the fans will be in the middle of the room, I was planning on drilling holes in the middle of the joists, until I can run it parallel.

 

[bodekms]

I was able to install the 3 ceiling fans. Thanks for everyones help/advice.