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Discussion Starter #1
Owner trying to save a few bucks on pressure treated joists and I would usually use 2x10 for these larger spans.....but... just wondering on deck bounce due to the 2x8x12 at maximum span. Obviously I'll block it (bridging) at mid span. Thoughts?....... 5/4 x6" decking....
 

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Naildriver
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A 12' a 2x8 is at it's maximum span. Without something like a post and beam in mid span, plan on bounce. Blocking and bridging won't help with the bounce. The bounce is vertical. Minimum spacing is 16 oc for Trex, and they really like it to be 12"oc.

2x10 gives you a little better span at 16'+.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
The customer is always right, just make sure he understands any bounce is his problem. I am like you, if it looks like a floor it looks best with 2x10 or better.

And there lies the skinny.....possible bounce or no bounce?...:biggrin2:
Getting some conflicting maximum spans for the 2x8...11', 11' 2", 11' 10" etc...with different amounts of bearing. Need to know the max span...not including the amount that's sitting on a beam. One end(s) is hung off a 3 ply beam...the other ends are sitting on a beam. Deck is at 3 levels....bottom level joists are hung between beams (flush beams), second level will sit on top of one of those beams and hung on other end (flush beam)....etc. That's why the 2x8 worked better....just a 7 1/4 step between decks. If I increase to 2x10...I'll have to put in a 4 1/8 (minimum) step.....:vs_frown:
 

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retired framer
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And there lies the skinny.....possible bounce or no bounce?...:biggrin2:
Getting some conflicting maximum spans for the 2x8...11', 11' 2", 11' 10" etc...with different amounts of bearing. Need to know the max span...not including the amount that's sitting on a beam. One end(s) is hung off a 3 ply beam...the other ends are sitting on a beam. Deck is at 3 levels....bottom level joists are hung between beams (flush beams), second level will sit on top of one of those beams and hung on other end (flush beam)....etc. That's why the 2x8 worked better....just a 7 1/4 step between decks. If I increase to 2x10...I'll have to put in a 4 1/8 (minimum) step.....:vs_frown:
All 2x10s
 

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Discussion Starter #6
2x10 it is.....what's another 500 bucks in the grand scheme of deck things....:biggrin2:
 

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retired framer
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2x10 it is.....what's another 500 bucks in the grand scheme of deck things....:biggrin2:
I wouldn't even talk about it, quality or 20 years of complaining.



There are people here that understand the sag and can help you figure out whether 2x8s will work.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
All 2x10s
Bottom level piers are already poured...so I can't change that deck height and I only have about an inch to drop beams with those adjustable beam anchors. I'll throw a sill plate underneath the 2x10...which will give me about a 5 3/8 step. Bottom level is already 2x10.
 

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retired framer
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Bottom level piers are already poured...so I can't change that deck height and I only have about an inch to drop beams with those adjustable beam anchors. I'll throw a sill plate underneath the 2x10...which will give me about a 5 3/8 step. Bottom level is already 2x10.
I can't picture where you are at but you can see what we do to make 2x10s work.
You do have a step down from the door?
 

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Hammered Thumb
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Here you go
The good part is it doesn't require any calcs - they did them for you, and they are from face of spans ("clear") not center of bearing.
seal.jpg

About $9 difference between 2x8x12 and 2x10x12
 
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