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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

Building a lean-to off the side of my house, and am wondering if attaching the rafters to the bellyband is the best way to go (flashing, structural integrity, etc.). And if it is, how should I do it?



 

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Discussion Starter #2
A. I posted a really dumb question and nobody felt like letting me know.

B. I posted a really complex question, and nobody has a clue.

C. I posted a really boring question, in which case, nobody cares.

:vs_laugh:

None of these seem right to me.....so consider this post a "bump". Thanks again in advance for any insight!
 

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retired framer
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I built one over the basement door with the same situation and just tucked my top flashing under the flashing above the band board. No leaks after 10 years.



Mine was firmly attached to the rim joist of the floor so you may have to add some structure in the attic to make sure it won't pull away.
 

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You can attach it there if you like. But do you really want to lose 3 windows? Why not a free standing shed?
 

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Thank you @Nealtw. Any chance at seeing pics of your flashing/roof interaction?

Here's my house while being framed....


My band lands right on the top plate, pretty much centered on them. What material is your belly band, and did you use fasteners long enough to get into that rim joist, or just let the band hold the brackets for your rafters?
 

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retired framer
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Thank you @Nealtw . Any chance at seeing pics of your flashing/roof interaction?

Here's my house while being framed....


My band lands right on the top plate, pretty much centered on them. What material is your belly band, and did you use fasteners long enough to get into that rim joist, or just let the band hold the brackets for your rafters?
No, windows 10 has decided i can no longer use an old blackberry phone as a camera.

I did put a few lag bolts into the rim.

Your band board is attached the gable wall above.


Is the gable a wall or a gable truss?
 

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retired framer
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Here's the truss going up on the roof.....
So you can see if you lag to that there is not much to hold the bottom of the gable from pulling away.

The is a 1x4 or 2x4 nailed to the top of the trusses from one end of the house to the other
You want to add to that a few more pieces from where you put lag bolts back toward the center.

I have marked them in yellow.
 

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retired framer
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Thank you @Nealtw . Any chance at seeing pics of your flashing/roof interaction?

Here's my house while being framed....


My band lands right on the top plate, pretty much centered on them. What material is your belly band, and did you use fasteners long enough to get into that rim joist, or just let the band hold the brackets for your rafters?
Our band board is a painted 2x10 fir rough texture.

You want solid blocking between the rafters to support the roof sheet at the top so you nay as well just use old fashion pressure blocks.

Pressure blocks are 2x4s between the rafters and i have tried to show the nails that you put in them and the rafter, one block in every other rafter bay and then when done go back and fill in the rest to support the roof sheeting. You can see that with blocks you can do many more nails than the hanger would have.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you @Nealtw, I appreciate it. And luckily, I think I know what you're talking about. It's time to plan my excursion into the attic! Please stay tuned. :wink2:
 

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Thank you @Nealtw. Any chance at seeing pics of your flashing/roof interaction?

Here's my house while being framed....


My band lands right on the top plate, pretty much centered on them. What material is your belly band, and did you use fasteners long enough to get into that rim joist, or just let the band hold the brackets for your rafters?
Any particular reason why your sheeting is installed vertical?
 

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It seems to be a thing down there.
Hmmmm...due to the strength axis in ply and osb they should always be horizontal with staggered joints.
Would be ripping it off if the inspector had anything to do with it....lol
Unless it was blocked on the inside for board/batten etc...
 

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Hmmmm...due to the strength axis in ply and osb they should always be horizontal with staggered joints.
Would be ripping it off if the inspector had anything to do with it....lol
Unless it was blocked on the inside for board/batten etc...
Their walls are higher than ours too, so not much to nail to the top plate. We get away with small walls like beside the garage door but never on one with 8 ft studs in it.
 

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Crap, I don't have access to that end of the attic. The combination of scissor truss, insulation, and ducting is pretty much impassable.

So would Plan B be to get aggressive with cross bracing on the new structure to reduce swaying and twisting in high winds?
 

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retired framer
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Crap, I don't have access to that end of the attic. The combination of scissor truss, insulation, and ducting is pretty much impassable.

So would Plan B be to get aggressive with cross bracing on the new structure to reduce swaying and twisting in high winds?
Hmmm, Maybe a little lower so you can tap into the top plates with a ledger.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hmmm, Maybe a little lower so you can tap into the top plates with a ledger.
If I did that, what would you recommend for flashing? Wonder if I could find the right dimension to tuck under the flashing above the belly band and reach down to the ledger.
 

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retired framer
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If I did that, what would you recommend for flashing? Wonder if I could find the right dimension to tuck under the flashing above the belly band and reach down to the ledger.
If you can't find one you have a sheet metal shop make what you need.

Or find one first and let that help dictate the elevation.


Or 2, one for a head flashing and one upside down tucked under the one you have.





 
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