[feelsecure]

I need to change 8 ft of a load bearing wall to a 2x3 wall to gain space needed to fit a washer dryer. There is an existing 36 inch header for a passageway. How do I create a header for the 2x3 wall. I will be doubling up each 2x3

 

[lewisthepilgrim]

how is 1 inch more of depth going to make enough more space for a washer dryer? what is there now ? You could always just remove the wall and install a beam.

 

[mae-ling]

Can you post pics and diagrams and perhaps we could help better?

 

[carpdad]

Do the appliances go that high where the header will be? Header can not be changed by yourself. Even if you could with engineer's ok, make sure joists above are sitting on the header at least 1 1/2".

 

[feelsecure]

how is 1 inch more of depth going to make enough more space for a washer dryer? what is there now ? You could always just remove the wall and install a beam.

I am remodeling the room. The walls originally had 1/8 inch paneling over the studs (no sheetrock)and the washer and dryer were touching the Side walls. There was 1/2 " clearance. The wall on one side is an exterior wall and the other wall is the kitchen all. If I change the wall to 2x3 I can can another inch and use Sheetrock. But that wall has a small header for the passage way from the kitchen to the laundry area.

 

[mae-ling]

Can you use 2x3 only for the area beside the machines then leave the rest as 2x4?
Doubled 2x3 is a good idea for the studs. How high of a header?

 

[gregzoll]

It would be easier to just move one wall back, then tear the old wall down, vs. going through trying to build mobile home framing to replace the other. Sounds like either poor planning back in the day, or the space was intended for smaller sized machines than what you have in there now.

 

[feelsecure]

Neither wall can be moved. Indeed the room was built in1953 for smaller machines

 

[gregzoll]

Never say never. Post drawings and pictures. Floorplan helps, along with knowing if you are on a Slab, Crawlspace, or Basement.

 

[jklingel]

i have no idea if either of these suggestions is necessary, but reducing a 2x4 to 2x3 has a SERIOUS effect on the strength of the stud. for ex, i was given these numbers by a guy who teaches building science at a small university: "A single SPF#2 9' 2x4 that's restrained laterally by sheathing or blocking can support 1820 lbs and a similar 2x6 can support 7061 lbs without buckling." thus, i'd be real careful replacing a 2x4 w/a 2x3 if the wall is load bearing. i THINK, and this is only a "think," you will have a stronger member if you nail your 2x3's into L's; better yet, U's. i have no idea if either is necessary, but reducing a 2x4 to 2x3 has SERIOUS consequences for the strength of the stud. i don't know the exact exponent, but the "strength" of a stud, be that bending or holding load w/ out failing, is not linear.