Thanks for reply. sounds straight forward enough!You have no soffet venting now, will you be looking for that with the new roof?
you are close to property lines can you have tails and soffet or are you stuck with the size of building you have now.
You would want solid blocking between the joists (joist material)
and a squash block on each side of the joist ( 2x4, 2x6, or scraps of joist)
good idea. Only concerns would be cost and lost sq footage, but I'll price it outI'd say wait a couple months and see what happens with this virus thing. You seem to have a good idea what you need, even prices, so my two cents:
1. Add wood framing to match the wood frame below. Cover the brick by adding 2" xps foam boards outside for "super" insulation and cleats for the siding. This way, you don't need any cantilevering.
I'll have 1,000 sq ft minus stairs, so I thin I can easily get master suite, 2nd bedroom and hall bathroom. Maybe even a 3rd small bed (will be identical to first floor, which has 2 beds, kitchen, huge living room and entry way. Will start playing with layouts this week.2. If the knee walls are 43" with 12/12 roof slope, remodel 2nd floor would be about 16' wide. This is fairly big one bedroom. Is the cost worth it? Don't know where the stairs are, but if thinking 2 beds, hall way could eat up a lot of valueable space. Minimum width hallway also makes moving furnitures difficult/impossible. Bath may have to be shared. Rearranging just the stairs could make this project a total renovation of the house.
been in the crawl spaces behind knee walls so I can see all electrical. i've rewired a few houses, so no problems with electrical. Pretty sure I know where plumbing goes, but will have to lift floor sheathing to double check and probably relocate some, esp if I do a second bath/WC. Live on my own and have 2 beds and full batch on first floor and bed and full bath in basement, so I can manage the dust, etc.3. Existing 2nd floor joist bays probably has lots of electric wires, minimum. These MUST be identified before the new floor goes up. I don't see how you can't open up some parts of the first floor ceiling. You'd probably want to insulate the floor for sound also. This kind of work can't be done without expecting accidents, sacrificing dust/noise and probably taking the family out of the house during some of the construction.
LOL. It's my master suite right now, so i'd rather not start ripping anything apart until I make a final decision on whether to proceed. I already have appointment with 2nd architect on 4/6 (already saw one, but visit was rather briefI'd say you could start looking for an engineer/architect and I don't see why initial exploration work can't be done with distancing and proper precautions. There is less risk here than going to a grocery to get needed food.:smile:
Yeah, gonna have to knock down the gables. Would consider keeping them, but would have to sub that out and other than the unused chimney that's coming down, I don't have matching brick, so I think it would look awful.Also, is the plan to knock down the brick at the gables, and put up stick built walls and siding—or are you an excellent mason with lots of time on your hands?
You might bump a 2x6 wall out 2" so you still have 3 1/2" of bearing then with 1 1/2" of foam outside you would be out as far as the brick.Thanks for reply. sounds straight forward enough!
So then yes, you'll be putting up stick and siding? What's the plan for the little gable over top of the front door? Gonna knock that down too?Yeah, gonna have to knock down the gables. Would consider keeping them, but would have to sub that out and other than the unused chimney that's coming down, I don't have matching brick, so I think it would look awful.
Was thinking about that. It would have to come down for the siding, etc., to go up. Would look weird anyway having a different pitch to roofSo then yes, you'll be putting up stick and siding? What's the plan for the little gable over top of the front door? Gonna knock that down too?
Unfortunately, I can't extend out back as I'm at limit of permeable area and it doesn't solve the headroom/lack of closet space on the rest of the floor.It will cost a great deal to strengthen the walls to take the added load of a second story addition. Two alternatives that would be more practical would be to extend the house out the back and use it to create a new master bedroom with a new master bathroom and walk in closets, or to jack up the house and build a new first story.
There is a community in the SF bay area that has many 800 square foot Victorian houses and a great many were lifted 8-10 feet up and then there was great access to upgrade plumbing and electrical and to build strong walls to support the elevated section of the house. This approach also eliminated having to open up the roof during the construction so if it rained no problems were created or delays in the work.
Thanks.You might bump a 2x6 wall out 2" so you still have 3 1/2" of bearing then with 1 1/2" of foam outside you would be out as far as the brick.
I think because the joists are sitting on wood and not the brick you likely have a wood frame house with a brick veneer.Thanks.
Will have to take a closer look when I get home as I'm puzzled right now, as there's the void behind the top plate and then some kind of sheathing. i'm hoping that void is where the brick is, but not sure what sheathing on the other side of the brick is.
When I opened up the first floor walls (removed a partition), there was 2x4 studs and then some kind of wooden sheathing. I'm assuming the brick is directly behind that sheathing. (Grew up in Europe, so used to cavity wall brick or cinder block construction: stick framing was all new to me when I moved here, and this if first brick house I've lived in over here.)
https://i.stack.imgur.com/nJmwh.jpg
Thanks for tip on structural engineer. I assumed architects were qualified. The basement walls are 5 of concrete (visible) below grade., not sure how far the go below base of basement.In your first post you stated it was a single story house. A basement does not make it a two story house. Currently the walls support the roof and any snowload on the roof. That is quite different from the load of an additional structure.
Talk to an architect that is certified to do the load calculations as most are not and so ned to rely on a structural engineer signing off on the plans. You will need that to get the building permits should you decide to go forward.
If you put $150,000 or more into this work will the value of your house increase by $150,000 or more? If not and you do not plan to remain in this house for the rest of your life you should reconsider.
Over the past 10 years I have spent over $200,000 on remodel work and hardscaping and probably increased the amount at which I could sell it by $80,000. I knew this but planned to age in place and it would have cost that much in selling and moving costs and I could do the work on my property in stages.
I think that's exactly what it is. Learned about brick veneers when i helped a buddy build a deck and read that brick is not a structural member, so although the deck's ledger board can be tied to the house, it must essentially be built a s freestanding structure. So we rented the hydraulic auger and dug 48-inch deep holes for the footings all the way around
That board will be the fascia behind the gutter, from he outside you could see how close that is to the brick.I think that's exactly what it is. Learned about brick veneers when i helped a buddy build a deck and read that brick is not a structural member, so although the deck's ledger board can be tied to the house, it must essentially be built a s freestanding structure. So we rented the hydraulic auger and dug 48-inch deep holes for the footings all the way around
Took some measurements in the roof space today and and I have 5 3/4 inches between outer edge of the top plate and the inner edge of that "appearance board" (outer edge of brick)
Even with 2x6 framing, that still leaves me a gap of 3 3/4 inch to make up:
Technically it's two story with low headroom, as the second floor was converted to living space (checked the permits with the village)In your first post you stated it was a single story house. A basement does not make it a two story house. Currently the walls support the roof and any snowload on the roof. That is quite different from the load of an additional structure.
Talk to an architect that is certified to do the load calculations as most are not and so ned to rely on a structural engineer signing off on the plans. You will need that to get the building permits should you decide to go forward.
If you put $150,000 or more into this work will the value of your house increase by $150,000 or more? If not and you do not plan to remain in this house for the rest of your life you should reconsider.
Over the past 10 years I have spent over $200,000 on remodel work and hardscaping and probably increased the amount at which I could sell it by $80,000. I knew this but planned to age in place and it would have cost that much in selling and moving costs and I could do the work on my property in stages.